There’s nothing more satisfying for me than finding a hidden gem or perhaps an overlooked gem of a restaurant, especially when it turns out to be a stone’s throw from where I live, in the Clapham / Balham borders. Craig James, the talented chef formerly of Quaglino’s and Butlers Wharf, returned to his neighbourhood last year to open Brasserie James. His intention was to create a neighbourhood favourite, and the type of venue he would enjoy going to himself.
With a menu based on that of a typical French brasserie, Craig has brought a few English touches on board and ensures that ingredients are sourced using traditional and ethical British suppliers. As a result, menus change daily to accommodate the best and freshest ingredients available.
Denham Estate red pole steak tartare with pea shoot salad was a delicious opening to the evening and roast red leg partridge with Savoy cabbage, game chips and bread sauce made for a hearty and warming dish on a cold winter’s night, leaving me with just enough room for chocolate fondant with blood orange sorbet. The wine selection was impressive, with a great selection by the glass for those not wanting to go all out.
Monthly tasting dinners are being held and are incredibly popular with locals. November is fully booked already with December going very quickly – at GBP 30pp for 5 courses this must be some of the best value food in town. Brasserie James will certainly become a regular haunt for me from now on.
47 Balham Hill, SW12. www.brasseriejames.com
