Anna Hansen, the guiding light between Clerkenwell’s The Modern Pantry, has an extremely impressive track record in her time in the kitchen; so impressive, in fact, that it’s something of a surprise that she isn’t as well known as other female trailblazers such as Angela Hartnett and Thomasina Miers. She began her career working with Fergus Henderson, and then, along with Peter Gordon, opened Marylebone’s acclaimed Providores restaurant, which she eventually left in order to open The Modern Pantry.
If you were a fan of the brilliant fusion cooking at the Providores, you certainly won’t be disappointed by a visit here. The restaurant is located on two floors, with an informal cafe on the ground floor and a (slightly) more formal dining room on the first floor. Dishes on offer might include the likes of Cornish crab rarebit or grilled pigeon breast with ruby chard to start, or sesame crusted salmon or miso marinated onglet steak for a main. Make sure that you leave some room for the splendid desserts, including some wonderful ice cream from small suppliers offering flavours (fennel and honey, or raspberry and guava) that are seldom found in the UK.
All this is complemented by a well chosen wine list that’s got a decent selection of unusual New World wines, and some fabulously friendly and accommodating service. Highly recommended for anything from a hearty Sunday lunch to a quick snack.
48 Saint John’s Square, EC1. www.themodernpantry.co.uk
