QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | 2010 February

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Archive for February, 2010

Sub-Continent Treasure

Monday, February 15th, 2010

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Living in South London I find myself spoiled for choice when it comes to Indian food with a great selection of different cuisine styles from the Indian continent. What I do miss are the higher end establishments which boast a much more unique style and selection of dishes. Because of this I was very happy to recently visit to Moti Mahal in Covent Garden heartily suggested to me by a couple of colleagues.

What I found was perhaps one of the most memorable Indian meals I’ve had in quite some time. The restaurant itself has a very pleasant, contemporary look to it , obviously aiming for the more discerning clientele. The relaxed and intimate lounge area and bar is perfect for a cocktail before sitting down and navigating through the menu.

The menu’s concept consists of dishes found along the Grand Trunk Road, a 2500km highway built by the Emperor Sher Shah Suri in the 16th Century. With a span from Sonargon in Bengal to Peshwar on the Northwest frontier of Pakistan there is a huge scope for traditional dishes along the way.

The menu is presented in a tasting style where several dishes will be ordered to build up a varying and exotic mix of tastes. Several dishes seemed to leap out off the menu, particularly Sorpotel, a Goan dish with an intense flavour with wild boar stewed with chillies, cloves, garlic and vinegar along with the smoothness of the Murgh Nazkat from Punjab and its basil poppy seed, cracked pepper and dill.

Having sampled seven or eight dishes I have to say I was very impressed. Although each dish had a strong and vibrant taste, none overpowered the other. I was also pleased that rather than the starters and the obligatory poppadoms that we were offered a large board of fresh salad – again a nice touch and the perfect way to start a meal.

Chef Ani has obviously put a lot of effort into creating the menu, placing emphasis on the finest local and global organic produce as well as a more traditional style of preparation by adopting the use of the “Thatee Grill” – a hallmark of rural Indian cooking.

Prices are towards the higher side but admittedly this reflects very well on the creativeness and quality of the dishes themselves, service is smooth and very warm as well. I’m planning on returning very soon to Moti Mahal with some friends as I know they will not be disappointed.

45 Great Queen Street, London WC2 www.motimahal-uk.com

Irrepressible Verve

Monday, February 15th, 2010

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As 2010′s new acts look to be mainly similar to last year’s – attractive girls with attitude, big hair and a fondness for 80s music – then anyone who is staking out a new furrow should be applauded. Welcome, then, the arrival of The Irrepressibles, a ten-piece mini-orchestra, led by the charismatic and flamboyant Jamie McDermott. Staking out a place in modern music somewhere between Antony and the Johnsons, the Arcade Fire and a sort of male Joanna Newsom, with a smattering of early David Bowie, The Irrepressibles promise to be one of the year’s most striking discoveries.

At the South Bank’s Queen Elizabeth Hall, the collective took Valentine’s Day as a suitable date to launch their first album Mirror, Mirror with a live performance. As you might expect, the theatrical elements of the evening came strongly to the forefront, with the back of the stage being decorated with full-length mirrors, all of which were illuminated by cabaret-style lightbulbs. This glitzily impressive backdrop proved a suitably lavish accompaniment for the band to perform their beautiful, offbeat and strange (in the best sense) music.

While I’m not convinced that this album will establish the band as a mainstream chart-topper – nor was it designed to – there’s a wit and playfulness to many of the songs, such as ‘Anvil’ and ‘My Friend Jo’ that will chime with anyone who likes theatrical and stylised pop music. However it’s the album and set closer ‘In This Shirt’ that hints at greater things still. Over the backing of a mournful organ and an increasingly complex string arrangement, McDermott’s eerily compelling voice soars as he recounts the story of what might be a lost love affair, or simply a paean to his tailor. Either way, it’s one of the most beautiful and stirring pieces of music I’ve heard in the past year. If this is their future, there’s no stopping them.

The album Mirror Mirror is now available. Further details of the band are at www.theirrepressibles.com

The Year’s Most Exclusive Club?

Friday, February 12th, 2010

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Rumour has it that the much awaited private members club ‘The Brompton Club’ opens shortly with a plethora of high profile events during fashion week and that owners Adam and House have a few tricks in store, so expect something rather unusual during dinner or dancing.

Located near to where The Old Brompton Road meets Queen’s Gate, ‘Brompton’ is tipped to be 2010′s most exclusive London club opening. Membership enquiries have superseded expectations, meaning that the queues of stylish and influential people who will be anxious to see and be seen will be immense. There aren’t many ways to get round this, but one way is by using Quintessentially’s clubs know-how to arrange Debenture Membership.

Debenture members receive a lifetime membership to The Brompton Club. Debenture Membership is £10,000, £5,000 of which is redeemable in the club. Additionally, thanks to partnership with their generous sponsors, the membership also offer an impressive range of goodies including a Vertu concierge phone, an invite to the sought after Krug annual dinner in the Krug private dining room at the Dorchester Hotel, a membership key chain tag designed by Tach jewelers and a limited edition silver Krug champagne cap and vintage bottle of Krug.

As one of only 40 Debenture Members, your complimentary access to the club is unlimited for every open afternoon and evening with up to five guests, unless pre-arranged with the club. Debenture Members have exclusive access to priority on all table bookings at the club, and invitations to special events.

Visit www.thebromptonclub.com for more information.

Gallic Class In Knightsbridge

Friday, February 12th, 2010

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Henry Harris might not be a household name, but, as chef-proprietor of Knightsbridge’s excellent Racine, he certainly should be. He founded the restaurant in 2002, and then, after a well-publicised departure to head up the Soho House group’s catering in 2007, returned to Racine the following year, where he has remained ever since. Unusually in the restaurant industry, this was apparently prompted purely by Harris’ love of being a hands-on chef, rather than any dissatisfaction.

A visit to a packed Racine on a cold, rather miserable Monday night in February soon confirms why Harris’ touch has proved so valuable. Virtually opposite the V & A, Racine is certainly in pole position to attract countless casual visitors wanting the French brasserie experience, but this is the real deal; along with the Galvin brothers’ operations and Le Bouchon Breton in Spitalfields, it’s hard to think that you’ll get something closer to a Parisian experience this side of the Channel. Full credit must go to the endlessly accommodating team, whose charm and professionalism make for a winning evening.

If you’ve been to a bistro or brasserie, you’ll know many of the staples already, but almost certainly not this well cooked or prepared. A starter of smoked eel and Alsace bacon was delicious, as was a beautifully presented plate of charcuterie drawn from Pyrenean black pigs. This was followed by a set-piece delight of a cote de boeuf from the local Irish butcher O’Shea’s, which had beautifully marbled fat on the meat to succulent, mouthwatering effect, helped by some near-divine Bearnaise sauce. A decadent side order of creamed spinach with foie gras might be murder on the waistline, but the magnificently melt-in-mouth taste is worth it.

Desserts are of a similarly high standard – a beautifully presented petit pot au chocolat with creme fraiche and the mighty ‘Colonel’, a lemon sorbet served up with a shot of Stolichnya vodka were the highlights – and these are all capably matched by an extensive wine list which, as you’d expect, focuses mainly on French vintages but spans the price range to allow for all budgets.

There are many times that only a really well cooked, well presented and well served feast in a restaurant like this will do. When that time comes, treat yourself – you certainly won’t regret it.

239 Brompton Road, London SW3 www.racine-restaurant.com

Alex Monroe at EC One

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

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To ensure that your loved one turns sufficiently dewy-eyed and weak at the knees this Valentine’s Day, why not pay a visit to EC One jewellers to sample the sumptuously beatific delights of the jeweller Alex Monroe?  It isn’t hard to guess where the British designer takes his inspiration from. All of his delicately crafted pieces are closely mirrored on nature and the English countryside, from solid gold bumblebee pendants to intricate rings fashioned on twine and buttercups. His pieces are elegant, charming, and ultimately timeless.

Having trained at Sir John Cass School Of Art in London, Monroe established his first store in 1986, and now supplies worldwide, with over 100 stores in Britain and Ireland alone, including the V&A museum and Liberty of London. Monroe receives worldwide acclaim for his craft – as Liberty comment, “The 20:20 collection, exclusive at Liberty, reworks the best of Alex Monroe’s classic heritage designs. His feminine and quirky collections have long been a favourite with Liberty customers.”

EC One has two stores, one located in Notting Hill on Ladbury Road, the other, in Exmouth market. I favour the latter, if for no other reason than its location directly opposite two equally irresistible restaurants; the highly successful Moro (brainchild of Sam and Sam Cook, and winner of the coveted title of Observer Best Restaurant Award 2009), and Medcalf, for those more inclined to traditional hearty British cuisine.

For more information visit www.alexmonroe.com

A Slice Of Paradise

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

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The rich man’s playground, as the beatific island of Mustique is more playfully known, has remained relatively unchanged over the years. A far cry from the ‘here-to-be-seen’ atmosphere of St Tropez, Mustique remains charmingly low-key and friendly.

The island, roughly the size of  Hyde Park, is situated amongst the Caribbean paradise of the Grenadines Islands yet holds the coveted status of being a rustic paradise.  It’s only in the past couple of years have people begun to exchange their standard issue golf buggies for jeeps.

The island seemingly only has one etiquette requirement,  that gentlemen must wear shirts inside the Correas General Store. Take note, a box of Weetabix will set you back 30 US dollars. Elsewhere, the island’s occupants stroll barefoot along sandy beaches, with little if any interest in star-spotting. The island retains a friendly first-name-basis atmosphere and the only time I’ve ever seen people take a second glance was when Paul McCartney came into Basil’s Bar -one of the island’s two beach side bars -accompanied by a leggy brunette, but we cannot begrudge a stare or two for a musical legend.

It is this lack of development which lends Mustique its charm. Aside from the general store, and two clothing stores adjoining it, you’ll find little more than a hotel, school and library in the way of non-residential structures, of which there are roughly sixty for rent.

There’s horse-riding and scuba diving for the more adventurous and every Wednesday, the scuba instructor Jan and her husband Louis play the blues on sax and piano respectively at Basil’s to the delight of adults and toddlers alike, who dance in circles around the rickety bar.  In fact  the island is so democratically inclined that it is impossible to reserve a tennis court more than two days in advance, so that everyone gets a chance. Weekly drinks parties are held to welcome new guests in the epicurean Cotton House Hotel, where one can indulge on a wine-tasting course with a world-class sommelier in the Organza draped living room-just one of the hotel’s many luxuries.

Villas start from £4,000 per week, and rooms in the Cotton House Hotel, from £400 per night.

For more information, see http://www.mustique-island.com/

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