QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | 2010 May

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Archive for May, 2010

Coup De Theatre

Friday, May 28th, 2010

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Whatever happened to those magnificent rooms in ‘the moving pictures’, those elegant dinner clubs haunted by femme fatales, mob bosses, sultry singers and black tie’d rogues?

Until recently, I’d only ever been in an imitation of one. I’ve dined in some beautiful spaces in my 30 odd years, some with decent entertainment even – but sadly, there was always some minor detail, some curiously misplaced light fixture or cheap painting that outed the whole experience as a sham; a slapdash facsimile of the grand original.

Enter 1901 Restaurant and Bar. This is the real deal folks: a dining and entertainment experience effortlessly achieving the grandeur and decadence of an era imprisoned on celluloid – but with a post modern face-lift – ensuring the evening feels innovative and new, not your bog-standard retro rehash.

Housed in Andaz Liverpool Street, in what was formerly the Great Eastern Hotel, the dining room at 1901 can be described as nothing short of spectacular; like a secular cathedral with a large marble island in the centre of the room, and above – the pièce de résistance – a glorious multi-coloured stained glass domed atrium, with seating around the perimeter.

Two-top tables, nestled right next to your neighbours – seemingly annoying at first – proved an intentional strategy on the part of the management, quietly insisting my guest and I engage in dialogue about the food and performance with the strangers to our right and left.

This inaugural event ‘Coup De Theatre’ kicked-off a series of dining and entertainment evenings, ‘Fete Surprise’ at 1901, hosted by London’s alternative performance artist, Jonny Woo, who paraded in and out of the room in between courses, showcasing the volcanic bustled ensembles of a 1980s, neon-streaked, Marie Antoinette. Jonny ‘songbird’ Woo later transformed into Master of Bingo Ceremonies, with the top prize being a night’s stay at Andaz.

My guest and I feasted on canapés of various cold soups including smoked duck and avocado; the vibrant colours evoking the wild oils of a Matisse or Gauguin painting. For starters we had a choice of home cured Scottish salmon with citrus fruit and wild herbs; goats curd with Kentish beetroot; or ham with spring vegetable salad. For mains, we both decided on the beef, cooked to perfection with truffle mash, new season potatoes and red wine jus. Desserts were non-adventurous, but extremely well executed (both by the chef and my voracious mouth) – chocolate mousse, cheesecake and crème brulée…

Upcoming themes will include ‘Everybody’s Birthday’ (June 5th), ‘Tartrazine Dreams’ (July 3rd) and ‘The Pearly Party’ (August 14th).

Tickets are £49 which include canapés, a three-course meal and drinks.

The evening will start at 7.30pm with cocktails, dinner will commence at 8.00pm.

1901 Restaurant and Bar
Andaz Hotel
40 Liverpool Street
London
EC2M 7QN

+44 (0) 207 961 1234

Messing About on the River

Wednesday, May 26th, 2010

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The Summerhouse by The Waterway in Little Venice is the ultimate warm weather destination. The sister business to the nearby and extremely popular Waterway Gastropub, it has already established a reputation as one of the in spots for the summer months; hence the well-heeled, West London urbanites flocking in droves to this stylish setting.

We started the evening sipping on our respective mojito and margarita, looking out to the narrow boats and Dutch barges on Regent’s Canal. Moving on to the menu, it’s all well-chosen, unpretentious and seafood-centric; we opted for an excellent smoked salmon with capers and calamari to start – and for our mains – a sea bass presented whole for my guest, and for myself – the sole concession to a loyal carnivore – an excellent steak with béarnaise sauce. The wine list is white-heavy, with a superbly crisp, dry and reasonably priced, Pouilly Fume. The only bottle of red wine on offer (this is summer, darling) is a gutsy New Zealand Pinot Noir, also available by the glass, sating the appetite of any red-loving oenophile. Desserts included seasonally appropriate delights such as banana canapés and zesty lemon tart.

The New England-inspired décor of white-washed brick, understated furniture with nautical upholstery, lends Summerhouse that signature Ralph Lauren meets New York Hamptons home-feel – but not in any annoying way. The service staff were friendly and accommodating. Our waiter seemed proud of where he worked and what he was serving; always a joy to see.

Our suggestion: book a table a good way in advance so you can get a seat by the canal itself. It’s a lovely place to partake in a cocktail and light meal after a stroll by the water on a warm summer’s evening.

The Summerhouse by The Waterway
(Opposite) 60 Bloomfield Road
London
W9 2PA

Tel: +44 (0) 207 286 6752

Pret a Por-Tea?

Tuesday, May 25th, 2010

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As every fashionista knows; cupcakes, macaroons and cookies do not a Miranda Kerr doppelganger make. Thanks to the current heat wave, this thought has never been more prevalent in my mind as the sun forces my body out of its winter hibernation. My summer wardrobe is now a horrifying reality and this thought alone is enough to make me reach for the carrot sticks, leaving the delectable, Jason Wu belted mini dress mocking me on its hanger.

But what if I said that the Jason Wu mini dress was not made from (scarily) scanty silk, but was in fact fashioned from delicious poppy-seed dough, embellished with ruffled purple icing? Well, at The Berkeley this summer, you can find Jason Wu, Christopher Kane, YSL and Chanel all elegantly served up on a plate, thanks to their spring/summer inspired Prêt-à-Portea afternoon tea.

This sugared sartorial indulgence has been created by head pastry chef Mourad Khiat, a trend-setter that drops in on London Fashion Week to inform on his delicate patisserie creations. His top selection for Spring/Summer 2010? The hat – which is why the current Prêt-à-Portea collection is representative of this “statement accessory”: one outfit finds Paul Smith orange, papaya and pink lavender bavarois smiling beneath a jaunty chocolate bowler hat.

Other trend-infused delights include the must-have clog biscuit, adorned with chocolate brown studs and white leather glaze, a Christopher Kane pink almond macaroon filled with white chocolate and elderflower ganache and the decadently dark Erdem chocolate cake, laced with passion fruit.

Prêt-à-Portea is served in The Caramel Room at The Berkeley from 1-6pm every day, and the über fashion-conscious can opt for a glass of couture Champagne with their treats. It all just confirms what we already know – you have to eat, sleep and breathe fashion. Just be careful not to end up with cake on your face – even if it is Chanel.

To find out more, please go to www.the-berkeley.co.uk/fashionista_tea.aspx.

Operatic Excess

Friday, May 21st, 2010

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Puccini’s Tosca, which was first performed in 1900, has deservedly acquired a reputation not just as one of Puccini’s best operas, but as one of the most famous in the world canon. ENO’s new staging, directed by Catherine Malfitano (herself one of the most notable and powerful Toscas of the past couple of decades) is exceptionally well sung, conceived and performed, making this a viscerally satisfying experience that can be recommended even to people who would steer clear of the opera at all costs.

The storyline, based on an obscure 19th century French play, revolves around Rome in 1800, where Italy is being torn between the all-conquering French army, led by Napoleon, and the forces of the Republic. The protagonists are Cavaradossi, a young painter, who is in love with the glamorous singer Tosca. However, the insanely corrupt and licentious chief of police Scarpia is also in love with Tosca, and, seizing an opportunity to blackmail her into exchanging her favours for the life of Cavaradossi, he attempts to right the status quo. Tragedy ensues.

As well as one of Puccini’s richest and most romantic scores (conducted subtly and effectively by ENO’s Edward Gardiner), this features one of his most gloriously hissable villains, in the form of Scarpia, who memorably declares at the end of Act 1, ‘Tosca, you have turned me away from God!’ He is ferociously sung by Anthony Michaels-Moore, whose gusto earned him both cheers and boos on the first night. Amanda Echalaz sings Tosca with both delicacy and force, most notably in her great Act II aria ‘Vissi d’arte, vissi d’amore’, in which she bemoans what appears to be her fate, and Julian Gavin is a charismatic Cavaradossi.

This is a superb production, and a must-see.

Until 10 July. www.eno.org.

Mexican Fantasy in Camberwell

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

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Unless you’ve been living underground for the past few months, you will have noticed the recent explosion in Hispanic fever that’s hit London. First there was master chef winner Thomasina Miers’ Wahaca, paying homage to Mexican street food, swiftly followed by high street chains’ Tortilla and Mexicali.

Tapping into this demand for wide-smiled Latino escapism – so craved by a nation continually rained upon – is Camberwell’s very own Mexican adventure; Church St Hotel. Located just off Camberwell Green (as close as you’ll get to that fiery Mexican soil without leaving England), the rooms are painted in vibrant reds and deep hues of blue with authentic heavy weave rugs on the beds and enchantingly tiled bathrooms. The dearth of room space and amenities are more than made up for by the unostentatious charm of the place, and its diminutive size lends it the appearance of an authentic casita.

There’s a communal breakfast room/recently-turned second dining room. This renaissance is due to the ever-increasing demand for the restaurant’s Spanish-Mexican cuisine. It is here that you might spend hours in reflection on large sumptuous leather sofas, sipping cocktails from the bar as you dip back and forth into a collection of DVDs guaranteed to keep even the most ardent film buff occupied.

The restaurant itself, Angels and Gypsies, offers an extensive selection of traditional Spanish dishes, all of a tapas size so you have the chance to try more than one dish. The jamón ibérico was perfectly salted and oiled, and the sirloin steak with quail’s eggs and black beans was decidedly hard to share!

With attentive staff, and superbly priced food, it’s a charming little trip south of the river.

For more information, please go to www.churchstreethotel.com.

Fat Sam’s

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

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Sam’s Brasserie is a fairly unassuming building, boasting swish industrial décor that is quite something to behold. The inside, whilst brimming with punters, feels anything but crowded, and if you prefer to dine without catching an earful of the couple sitting next to you, you’ll love Sam’s.

Ostensibly, the residents of Chiswick have more friends than we do in Central London, as intimated by several massive ten-seater dining tables (or perhaps they have more cause for celebration), the staff are friendly without being overbearing, and I was put at ease almost instantaneously with a Bloody Mary that could put hair of the chest of a snail. The food is typically an English affair, and it’s simplicity of touch gives it child-friendly appeal without that ‘balloon and crayons’ aspect of Tootsies.

I start with a commendable salt and pepper squid – perfect in texture and seasoning and generously portioned, whilst my rather moderate brother opts for the butternut squash soup. Giving women a bad name, I insist on swapping half-way through in order to fully appreciate as many plates as possible.  We follow with calves liver for him, and steak for me. Both are winners, but neither particularly challenging. I decide it’s time to raise the benchmark for pudding, and we order the banana crème brûlée with walnut shortbread.  I’m not disappointed, and the dish works superbly, resisting that cloying taste of overly-saccharine bananas.

Verdict – Simple but accomplished dishes, with a relaxed ‘Sunday brunch’ feel.

The restaurant also offers evenings of jazz and cookery courses.

www.samsbrasserie.co.uk

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