Sam’s Brasserie is a fairly unassuming building, boasting swish industrial décor that is quite something to behold. The inside, whilst brimming with punters, feels anything but crowded, and if you prefer to dine without catching an earful of the couple sitting next to you, you’ll love Sam’s.
Ostensibly, the residents of Chiswick have more friends than we do in Central London, as intimated by several massive ten-seater dining tables (or perhaps they have more cause for celebration), the staff are friendly without being overbearing, and I was put at ease almost instantaneously with a Bloody Mary that could put hair of the chest of a snail. The food is typically an English affair, and it’s simplicity of touch gives it child-friendly appeal without that ‘balloon and crayons’ aspect of Tootsies.
I start with a commendable salt and pepper squid – perfect in texture and seasoning and generously portioned, whilst my rather moderate brother opts for the butternut squash soup. Giving women a bad name, I insist on swapping half-way through in order to fully appreciate as many plates as possible. We follow with calves liver for him, and steak for me. Both are winners, but neither particularly challenging. I decide it’s time to raise the benchmark for pudding, and we order the banana crème brûlée with walnut shortbread. I’m not disappointed, and the dish works superbly, resisting that cloying taste of overly-saccharine bananas.
Verdict – Simple but accomplished dishes, with a relaxed ‘Sunday brunch’ feel.
The restaurant also offers evenings of jazz and cookery courses.
www.samsbrasserie.co.uk
