Entering its 16th year in the heart of Mayfair’s cobbled lanes, Tamarind have won the Michelin star twice for their efforts; they first won it in 2001, and had it nabbed away in 2009 before the detractors had another change of heart. I spent the summer of 2004 in India, travelling from far in the North, down into the mystical backwaters of Kerala. Delhi cuisine is full of bold, vibrant and often fiery flavours. Trivandrum curries were sweeter, pairing fish with fresh local fruits. Needless to say, nothing I ate in the stunning subcontinent was even remotely familiar. The “curry” we order on a lazy Sunday evening in London has been adapted beyond recognition for the faint-hearted English palette, which is why Tamarind is so refreshing and truly authentic.
With its sweeping copper pillars and crisp white linens, Tamarind is sublimely elegant. I was welcomed by an attentive sommelier who recommended a beautiful South African chardonnay from Stellenbosch. I’m not usually a chardonnay drinker but it was a perfectly matched glass of wine. The menu is carefully divided into “genres” and with just a quick scan, it was immediately apparent this was unlike other London curry houses.
A selection of mini appetizers was selected for us. The Channa Chaat, a spiced chickpea dip with mint chutney and sweetened yoghurt topped with blueberries and tamarind chutney, might sound like an Indian houmous but was not. It may have been chickpea based, but the combination of sweet blueberry with tamarind chutney was nothing short of magnificent. A generous portion of monkfish arrived marinated in fresh coriander and spices alongside a heavenly Adraki Murgh chicken dish.
A simple cutlet of Kashmiri lamb shank so tender I could have cut it with a plastic fork was the highlight of the meal. Slow-cooked with whole spices, yoghurt, saffron and Kashmiri chillies, my main course was a perfect tribute to Indian cuisine; refined and delicate in texture yet entirely robust in flavour.
At Tamarind, the ambience, decor, cuisine and service are without flaw.
Not usually one for dessert, when the basmati rice pudding was placed before me, I simply had to try it. The creamy texture cleanses the palate beautifully while lending that subtly sweet finish, the ideal finale to the full-bodied spices so present in the previous dishes.
India is the most enigmatic of countries. Their culture and rich history materialises in the expanse and intricacies of their sumptuous cuisine. If you do find yourself in London with a craving for the authentic majesty of India, bypass your local tandoori and head into the heart of Mayfair…
Tamarind
20 Queen Street
Mayfair, London
W1J 5PR
T: 020 7629 3561
F: 020 7499 5034
