I am resting now in the shadow of the Himalayas. Above me the white snows seem to evaporate into mist, falling on the sacred shrines, the waterfalls and the gardens of Sangtopeiri – ‘Heaven on Earth’ in Bhutanese. I only arrived a few days ago at Uma Paro, Bhutan, but already I feel the ancient mysticism of this otherworldly place taking hold of me.
In an effort to atone for my dietary sins, I’ve booked into Uma Paro for their 10 day cycling adventure and resort respite. I’ve opted for one of their freestanding villas; a spacious, airy and unpretentious – but undeniably chic – bedroom and sitting area with traditional Bukhari wood burning stove. All villas, much to my delight, offer personal butler service.
Our first day of cycling led us to an ancient Buddhist temple. We rode at a forgiving pace along a bridge, allegedly built by a saint. It hangs across the valley by threads of metal and as it swayed, I was able to look down into the abundant and untouched pine forests below.
After an inspiring day admiring my surroundings, as well as my body’s ability to transport itself through this magnificent landscape, my body felt primed for a spa treatment and recharging meal. At Como Shambhala Retreat, treatments include massage and authentic Ayurvedic therapies, restoring the balance of the body’s three distinctive but complimentary doshas.
To my delight, the restaurant was serving a divine handmade linguine with poached egg, forest mushrooms and in season asparagus. After a tempting perusal of the full menu offerings – based on a mixture of locally sourced ingredients with both contemporary and traditional interpretations of local, Indian and Western culinary traditions – I couldn’t help but to plan the next morning’s culinary affair: local buckwheat pancakes with Bumthang honey, lime and maple syrup.
Tomorrow the trail will get steeper and I will ride through the cool shade of the conifers, where the prayer flags flutter above the streams of the Paro Valley. The temple at the top is our spiritual and visual reward. We will stay the night at the ‘cave of a thousand prayers’, in a monastery where age-old chants and campfires still burn their ancient songs.
The capital of this Kingdom is as enchanting as the country that surrounds it. It sprawls up the wooded hillside of the Wang Chhu. The setting is one of those rare places where time seems to stand still, yet still be moving; an entirely appropriate paradox in Bhutan, where the national religion remains 100 percent Buddhist.
I’ve met some delightful locals here, most of whom were keen to engage with our group. The villagers wear their traditional patterned garb, like a proud and unifying national dress code – leading me to feel somewhat embarrassed about my designer jeans and high-street tee shirts. The young children pointed at my trainers and laughed – and I, feeling balanced, energised and alive, really truly alive, for the first time in too long – laughed my childhood laugh along with them.
General enquiries and reservations (including travel assistance)
Tel + 975 8 271597
Fax + 975 8 271513
Email info.paro@uma.como.bz
Uma Paro
PO Box 222
Paro
Bhutan
