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Archive for October, 2010

The Corinthia Hotel & Malo Spa

Friday, October 29th, 2010

Spas are an inevitable feature of fine hotels these days. No longer content with a comfortable bed and a massage, discerning travelers the world over want more from their accommodation. Much more. And so, it was with absolute delight that I recently experienced the Malo Spa at the Corinthia Hotel in Lisbon.

Sweeping marble floors, elegant outdoor dining terraces and velvet seating abound in the Corinthia, though the heart within Lisbon’s business district, is the 3000 square metres of spa heaven on the second floor of the hotel. Those with a strict adherence to holistic treatments will be impossibly impressed with the endless equipment that fills each treatment room (though a classic Ayurvedic massage is of course on offer). Founded by dental King Dr. Paulo Malo (the man responsible for pioneering modern dental implants) the Malo Spa is an extension of his belief in “medical spas.” As a result, his marriage of both medical and aesthetic ‘health and wellness’ offers everything from face radiofrequency treatment to Botox, a classic Clarins facial to manicures and pedicures: this is literally the place to have a head-to-toe make over from inside and out; the extent to which you make over, of course, depends on you. Though not quite interested in surgery or injections just yet, I was fascinated at the way such treatments are offered in the most luxurious and tranquil of spaces, with expert medical staff on hand when needed. It is easy to see why Dr. Malo’s spas and clinics are dominating the way they do (his largest is the biggest in the world, set within the four walls of Macao’s Venetian Hotel). His firm belief that spas should offer “more than just silly oils” will appeal to those wanting sumptuous surroundings in which to relax and rejuvenate after treatments, though those wanting a good old fashioned massage won‘t leave disappointed.

Viktor, a gorgeous-looking therapist, gave me an award-winning massage, though the real highlight had to be a capsule massage which incorporated water jets pulsing my whole body on a vibrating plate. Futuristic it may sound and initially intimidating it certainly was, but the effects were incredible. I felt utterly relaxed, my skin more supple, and the heady aroma of lemon oil refreshed me completely. Unlike so many wellness spas, the Malo offers delicious food and wine at any time of day and has all the essentials of a slick gym and sleek swimming pool. The sheer size of the spa places it in a league of its own (none of those claustrophobia inducing, terribly narrow treatment rooms) as does the range of services.

After hours of treatments, I felt one more would transfigure me from relaxed to comatose. As such, I floated into the lift, sailed up to my suite on the 23rd floor, and collapsed into a warm bath in my divine room. Water filled the deep ceramic tub in less than four minutes, a firm nod to the efficiency and luxury of the Corinthia. Lisbon called my name from outside the room so I willed myself to get ready for dinner. I headed out to the recently renovated, utterly fabulous restaurants of the city’s dock area, but inside, all I could think about was getting back later and crawling into that seductive bed to thoroughly enjoy my newly found state of Nirvana.

Av. Dos Combatentes, 43
1600-042 Lisboa

www.maloclinicspa.com
www.corinthia.com

Light Memories of Frieze

Thursday, October 28th, 2010

Super Design has been heralded as the ‘most important and innovative’ expo at the big Frieze this year. Inside Victoria House, leading galleries showcased what they believed were exemplary masterpieces of modern design art.

At first, I was slightly skeptical; champagne flute in hand, I simpered beneath chandeliers named ‘Digit Superball’ and ‘Digit Linear’ – orbs of Murano glass that seemed pretentious at best. There was the ‘Newspaper Shade’ by Michael Young – 10,000 pieces of newspaper folded together. My inner-eye died; this was a shade of art as mundane as it was confident, as obtuse as it was difficult to fabricate. Starting to show signs of annoyance, I happened on the ‘Threefold’ light, a Mobius snake of aluminium with the unique quality that light glazes across it without ever crossing an edge – seductive, and yet peculiarly unimaginative. After a few more flutes, I figured that this exhibition, curated by gallery owner Patrick Brillet, was an ingenious medley of dysfunctional magic shapes that needed a childish, poetic sensibility to truly appreciate them.

And so I forsook the cynical gaze, and soon reflected the animated, excited hues of my more than charming confidante. Perhaps it was her excitement that did it, but soon I was seeing light through the fog. I walked into another room, looked up, and two massive illuminated sockets glinted with a mercurial vapour. Marcus Tremento’s ‘Plug Light’- courtesy of The Apartment gallery – is inspired by French Pop comics from the 60’s, a formalist manipulation of 2D and 3D imaging that exaggerates size and form to spellbinding effect. Then there was Mitterand-Cramer‘s Facet Moon Table’ by Parisian designer Arik Levy – a utopian cut of stainless steel that dances across the eyes, fragments of the whole room reflected in a beautiful geometric frieze.

Outside Victoria house, the limpid rays of a full moon guided our footsteps to Carpenters Workshop where another light show was in progress. ‘The behaviour of objects’ is Random International’s first solo exhibition, a lesson in the uses of digital technology to create tension and surprise in our rapidly evolving environment. Devised by Stuart wood, Flo Ortkrass and Hannes Koch, the first three works I happened on – ‘triptych’, ‘self-portrait’ and ‘swarm’ – are significant, intelligent, and leave traces across the imagination akin to a melancholic piano melody. With ‘self portrait’, the installation engages you with an ephemeral representation of yourself. Once you step away, the moment – the art work – vanishes. My thoughts were such; that life is not a work of art, and that each waking moment passes, and cannot be revived.

I left that room with more urgency, but found that when I stepped back out onto the street, even the moon had disappeared.

Random International are at Carpenters Workshop, London until 13th November.

Le Melezin Courchevel

Tuesday, October 26th, 2010

The first Aman resort in Europe – Le Mélézin – opened in Courchevel in 1992 with the intention of combining an unrivalled ski experience with the classic traditions of the finest French manor. As Courchevel is part of ‘Les Trois Vallees’ area, visitors to the resort have immediate access to 600km of ski slopes all of which are well linked and maintained and offer a variety of alternative activities, including heli-skiing, snowmobiling and snowshoeing.

Le Mélézin resort is a luxurious après-ski home located directly on the Bellecôte piste, allowing easy ski-in and ski-out access to the resort whilst standing approximately 200 metres from the village centre and its wide-ranging facilities.

The Mélézin lodges premier position above the village of Courchevel 1850 gives it scenic vistas all the way from the French to the Swiss Alps. These picturesque views are captured beautifully by floor-to-ceiling windows in all the lounges, bedrooms and bathrooms.

Le Mélézin does not look or feel like a typical ski hotel. Its design is modern and luxurious, with inspiration taken from a vision of a medieval fortress and from traditional skiing chalets. Its snug spaces, handsome colours and textures – ranging from the oiled beauty of exotic timber to parched leather evoke the cosy, warm feeling of a ski chalet, whilst preserving the typical low-key approach established in all Aman resorts.

This hotel provides an appealing and sophisticated alternative to the “ski-all-day, out-all-night” ski break. With all the luxury of a Capri stone Turkish bath, a spa that offers the finest treatments, a small gym and an indoor pool, the Mélézin is a soothing and secure environment, which proves that good design can create an atmosphere of peace and relaxation.

The outdoor terrace provides the perfect place to enjoy the midday sun over lunch, afternoon tea, or simply a snack. In the evening, the oak-beamed, candlelit Dining room, with its engravings and frescoes, constitutes a sumptuous haven where guests can choose from traditional French Cuisine and authentic Thai dishes.

Along with the sensational views, the bronze sculptures of wild birds on the mezzanine add a rural French flavour and enhance the warm and inviting mood captured by Le Mélézin.

Courchevel is easily accessible by a variety of transport routes. It is possible to drive from Geneva, which is 140km north of Courchevel or from Lyon, which is approximately 200km to the west. The fast TGV train from Paris to Moûtiers-Salins takes four hours, followed by a 40-minute drive to the resort. Finally, the Altiport, 10 minutes from Le Mélézin, handles private charters by helicopter.

Go to www.amanresorts.com/

Masterful Mixology at 69 Colebrooke Row

Monday, October 25th, 2010

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To The Manor Born

Friday, October 22nd, 2010

Mae West once said, ‘I’m easily satisfied. I only want the best.’ This maxim appears to hold true for Exclusive Hotels, a small but perfectly formed group of luxury hotels (and winner of 2009’s AA Small Hotel Group) in locations ranging from Hampshire to Sussex, where the emphasis is on allowing guests to enjoy themselves in unpretentious but beautifully presented surroundings. Unlike many ‘country house hotels’, where chintz and expensive extras soon take away the pleasure of a stay, the idea here is that guests can relax and feel at home immediately.

Nowhere is this more the case than one of the jewels of the crown in the collection, the Manor House. Set in the beautifully preserved Wiltshire village of Castle Combe, where remarkably little has been changed over the past centuries (no TV aerials or ‘For Sale’ signs here, let alone anything more unbecoming), the hotel occupies the manor house itself, which originally dates from the 14th century, as well as, charmingly, a row of cottages leading into the villages. Many of these are now used for guest accommodation, and they represent a charming synergy of the old and new; four poster beds and antique furniture jostle for space with infinity baths and flat screen TVs. It’s hard to imagine even the most devoted sybarite being disappointed by the luxurious accommodation.

The hotel is rightly famous for its Michelin-starred Bybrook Restaurant, under the capable command of Richard Davies, whose previous berths include Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea and The Vineyard at Stockcross. With a pedigree like that, you know what to expect; dishes that combine European sophistication with carefully sourced ingredients and exquisitely accomplished cooking. Highlights of the tasting menu, the so-called ‘Menu Prestige’, included a delectable starter of hand dived scallops with butternut squash and chorizo, steamed fillet of turbot and a main course of beautifully tender and rich lamb, which my guest, an avowed vegetarian, insisted on sampling, and pronounced it exquisite.  As you’d expect from a restaurant that has been recognised by the AA Notable Wine Lists, the selection of wines on offer, either by the glass or bottle, is both eclectic and deeply satisfying, with the sommelier on hand to offer expert guidance whatever your budget.

However, there’s more to the hotel than just lavish bedrooms and equally lavish dinners. The afternoon tea is widely acknowledged to be a thing of beauty and wonder, and indeed the prestigious and highly demanding Tea Guild pronounced it the best country house afternoon tea award this year – with 15 varieties of loose leaf tea on offer, it’s an authoritative selection. And the ever-popular monthly ‘Ladies Lunch’ sessions, with the next being held on 6th December, offer a four course lunch along with coffee and a glass of wine, as well as the chance to try your hand at Christmas floral decorating, for a bargain £33.

To say any more about this wonderful destination would be to gild the lily, but it’s likely that if Mae had been alive today, she might have followed in the footsteps of her fellow Hollywood stars Michael Douglas and Gwyneth Paltrow and found her way to Castle Combe. She’s unlikely to have been disappointed.

Manor House Hotel, Castle Combe, nr Bath. www.manorhouse.co.uk

Quintessentially travelled with First Great Western Trains. For the best deals, book up to 12 weeks in advance on the website www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk or contact customer services on + 44 (0)8547 000 125.

The Greatest Dane

Thursday, October 21st, 2010

It’s been a busy last couple of years for starry productions of Hamlet, what with David Tennant at the RSC, Jude Law at the Donmar, John Simm up in Sheffield and now Rory Kinnear in Nicholas Hytner’s new production at the National. This sudden spate of stagings might make even the most committed Bard fan slightly weary, except of course when it’s as gripping and vital as this.

Hytner’s first innovation is to set the play explicitly in a police state. All the characters are being watched, either by the ever-present CCTV or by the suited apparatchiks, forever muttering into their earpieces. The political undertones, so often soft-pedalled in performance, are here brought to the fore. Claudius – riskily but successfully played by Patrick Malahide as a vaguely Putin-esque despot – addresses his public speeches to ever-present  cameras. Dissenters, whether they’re the players, Laertes’ army or even Hamlet himself, are led away by armed men or threatened with torture. Against the ubiquitous sense of violence and paranoia, the question is asked, implicitly; ‘Does one man’s life really matter?’

The answer, thrillingly, is ‘yes’, because Rory Kinnear’s quite astonishing performance more or less redefines what an audience expects from Hamlet. Kinnear has a magnificent speaking voice, perfect comic timing and the rare ability to swing from high tragedy to low comedy in an instant. What he does here, and it’s both mesmerising and eventually highly moving, is to humanise Hamlet completely. His prince isn’t mad, or transfixed with incestuous desire for his mother, or an impotent wretch unable to avenge his father’s murder. Instead, he’s a young man devastated by grief who gradually comes to realise his destiny is one suffused by violence and loss.

This energetic, intelligent staging moves at a tremendous pace throughout its three-and-three quarter running time, keeping the action as gripping as any modern political thriller. It’s always tempting fate to come out with superlatives, but I can’t remember seeing a clearer, more gripping or more emotionally rich production of this great play.

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