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Archive for February, 2011
Pinot Noir Pioneers
Monday, February 28th, 2011Style, Taste And Wit
Thursday, February 24th, 2011
For a city as supposedly imbued with a fine dining culture as London, it comes as a bit of a shock to realise that it’s only got two three Michelin restaurants, and both of those are outposts of globally lauded superchefs, namely Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse. A name that has come up time and time again as someone who richly merits a third star is Claude Bosi who, along with his former wife Claire, runs Hibiscus, which caused a dining sensation first in Ludlow and then again in 2007, when it moved to London and swiftly recaptured its two stars.
A recent visit for a lavish weekend lunch shows that Bosi is firing on all cylinders. The room is compact, stylish without being OTT and full of stylishly efficient staff who are friendly without being over-familiar. The clientele are respectful and no doubt respectable; one tacitly feels that raised voices and braying laughter would be unwelcome intrusions here. The atmosphere is one of moneyed elegance, perhaps just as well given that the cuisine on offer is far from cheap. Those who have to think twice about opening their wallets for seriously high-end dining might wish to look elsewhere.
For the true gastronomes, there is a never-ending parade of delights. An amuse-bouche of coconut custard and wild mushroom veloute, served in a scooped out eggshell, sets the scene for what Bosi’s cooking represents; precision, delicate flavours and not a little wit. This theme runs through many of the starters, from roast hand dived scallops in pork pie sauce, of all things, to a ravioli of hen’s egg yolk and smoked potato with chopped winter truffle, the effect is as droll as it is delicious. These are accompanied by some remarkably innovative wines, such as the ‘orange wine’ – white wine fermented and distilled as if it were a red – the AA Cos Pithos 2009 from Sicily – which sounds peculiar but is a beautiful compliment to Bosi’s creations.
Halibut braised in coffee and cardamom and guinea fowl cooked in hay with goat’s cheese are about as close as Bosi gets to convention – i.e not very – but are both served with impeccable grace and style. My guest, who still clings to the bizarre tenets of an ancient sect called ‘pescetarianism’, was delighted with a Dover sole stuffed with fennel, an impeccably presented and quite splendid dish. The selection of cheese, from the excellent Paxton & Whitfield in nearby Piccadilly, was every bit as great as you’d expect.
But the coup de grace came in the last course. When the waitress starts grinning and refuses to tell you what you’re going to eat until you’ve devoured most of it, you’re either in very safe hands indeed or in trouble. What looked like a tarte au citron appeared, and we fell upon it with eagerness. Except it didn’t taste much like lemon tart. It was…almost savoury, we thought. But it’s a dessert! Desserts can’t be savoury. And what was that ice cream with it, too? Eventually we were put out of our inquisitive misery. It was, of all things, a tart of Jerusalem artichoke, served with toasted oat ice cream, a complex, challenging and delectable dish, like so much of the menu here. If you want to be tested and excited as well as just fed, Hibiscus is the place to come.
29 Maddox St, London W1. www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk
One To Watch: Jessie J
Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011
Mix the soul of Prince, the panache of Beyonce, the vocal capacity of Whitney and the courage of Gaga and the outcome is 22-year-old singer/songwriter, Jessie J. I intend the former to be taken as traits rather than direct comparisons, because Jessie J is ultimately her own person: a matchless talent. This year has scarcely begun and she has already managed to own it, having topped the BBC’s ‘Sound of 2011’ list and won the ‘Critic’s Choice’ Brit Award.
In her tender years, Jessie J featured in Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical ‘Whistle Me Down,’ as well as attending the Brit School. These tastes of performance in her youth fuelled her ambition to work hard and get where she is today.
The singer’s ongoing heart problems have also made her more of a fighter and more appreciative of life than the average person, having seized every opportunity wholeheartedly. Since she is unable to drink, smoke or take drugs, Jessie admits she has no choice but to just be confident. She is a great inspiration for today’s low-morale youth and her encouragement is also evident in her music. She is a remarkable lyricist, but her songs stand out mostly because they’re jam packed with truth. “It’s okay not to be okay. Sometimes it’s hard, to follow your heart. But tears don’t mean you’re losing, everybody’s bruising. There’s nothing wrong with who you are.”
Jessie J has written hits for artists such as Christina Aguilera, Miley Cyrus, Chris Brown and Alicia Keys. Her debut single ‘Do it Like a Dude’ was initially written for Rihanna, but she decided to keep it for herself. By doing so, she aptly reached number two in the UK charts, finally seizing the limelight she is more than worthy of.
She cracked America as a song-writer when she co-wrote global hit ‘Party In The USA’ for Miley Cyrus. She was then noticed on YouTube by Chris Brown’s manager and he was so impressed by her voice and charisma that he asked her to support Chris Brown on the Europe leg of his sold-out tour. Cyndi Lauper even asked Jessie J to support her and invited her on stage to duet ‘Girls Just Wanna Have Fun’ alongside her. Being thrown in at the deep end has allowed Jessie J to gain both the confidence and experience of an artist beyond her years. Her celebrity backing is growing by the day, receiving praise via twitter from the likes of Paloma Faith and Kylie, as well as Justin Timberlake, who declared her the best singer in the world right now.
Although this down-to-earth Essex girl has already reached and captivated so many people with her music and her personality, she is by no means generic like the average Pop Star today. Her music defines her – likeable, expressive and sweet with a ghetto edge. But most significantly, she is a born performer. After having flooded YouTube with her homemade videos, which verify her raw talent, the Pop Queen has finally received her rightful reign of the stage.
Jessie J’s personality oozes through on her new online series ‘Dare Jessie’ where both her fans and various celebrities set her challenges. B.o.B recently dared her to find James Brown’s Hollywood star and to do an impression of him. As soon as she found it, she leapt straight into air-guitar mode and did her best impersonation, without being fazed at all by the passers-by. Jessie J proves she is not afraid to be herself and this lack of pretence is also evident in her live performances.
Look out for Jessie J’s next single in March called ‘Price Tag’ which features B.o.B and her greatly anticipated debut album entitled ‘Who You Are,’ which is scheduled for release later this year.
A Good Design is a Good Design
Monday, February 21st, 2011
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Food For All Seasons
Saturday, February 19th, 2011
Amidst all of the recent hype about the reopening of The Savoy and the opening of Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner at the Mandarin Oriental, it’s interesting to see that the re-emergence of the Four Seasons on Park Lane and the inception of its star restaurant Amaranto have gone almost unheralded. Part of this is a certain lack of big ‘da-dah!’ publicity that the other hotels have in spades; without a reality TV series or arguably the world’s most famous chef to hang the reopening on, it has to be judged entirely on its merits. Which, thankfully, are considerable enough to make this well worth a visit.
The first thing that you notice is Pierre-Yves Rochon’s design, which resembles an unlikely but rather beguiling cross between a Far Eastern tea palace and an Edwardian bordello. If you’re a fan of red velvet, then you’re going to be in seventh heaven. The cocktails at the adjoining bar are excellent; a novel twist on an iced tea involving gin was a perfect pre-dinner aperitif and sets up the meal splendidly.
Under executive chef Adriano Cavagnini, who attracted much acclaim for his tenure at the Eden Hotel in Rome, the menu does not attempt to reinvent the wheel but instead concentrates on a range of traditional Italian specialities, beautifully cooked and stylishly presented. A starter of rabbit ravioli is perfectly light and tender, and a main course of veal is every bit as delectably cooked as you’d hope for. My date’s sea bass, meanwhile, had her using distinctly Italian expressions of pleasure at the subtle, clean flavours that it embodied so beautifully.
However the reason why this seems likely to become a great favourite with diners is more to do with the quite stunning 250-bottle strong wine list, ranging from regions all over Italy, from Piedmont to Sicily. They’re on display in the bar in stunning glass-walled splendour, and, best of all, it’s possible to order any bottle on the list, provided that you have a minimum of two glasses; hardly much of an obligation. A quite exquisite Italian Riesling was a highlight, but then it’s easy to get carried away with such an eclectic and well-chosen selection. Our sommelier, Jack, proved a more than usually helpful and accommodating guide.
There’s no doubt that Amaranto faces some tough competition in the comparatively rarefied world of big-money fine dining. However, there’s equally no doubt that it’s doing what it sets out to do very, very well indeed. In the very near future, this is going to be one of London’s premier eateries.
Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1.
www.fourseasons.com/london/amaranto
A Walk In The Park
Friday, February 18th, 2011
‘The most hilarious play you’ll see all year!’ the ads breathlessly proclaim. ‘Essential….unmissable…a once-in-a-lifetime experience.’ If there was an Olivier award for best hyperbole, Bruce Norris’ new play Clybourne Park would be the frontrunner. Ever since its triumphant opening at the Royal Court last summer, it has become a cause celebre, and now its much-heralded transfer to the Wyndham’s Theatre in the West End allows audiences to judge it for themselves. Is it the timeless masterpiece the critics suggest, a triumph of hype over substance, or, as is more usual, something in between?
The play takes place in two time zones. The first, set in 1959 Chicago, sees a traumatised couple, Russ and Bev, preparing to sell their house. Their neighbours, good Rotarians all, are not-so-secretly appalled to find that the potential vendors are a black family. In the second, in 2009 Chicago, the roles are reversed; another couple, Lindsey and Steve want to demolish the house, now in a predominantly black area and build their dream home. Again, they meet with local opposition, this time buried under a thin veneer of liberal sensibility.
Norris’ play asks many interesting questions about issues of race, society and property in both contemporary and recent historic America (One wonders in passing what the play would have been like if it had been set in 1909 and 2009, or even 2109). It’s certainly as relevant to Britain as it is to America, with countless neighbourhoods changing and gentrifying all over the country. And the already justly infamous scene at the end of the second act, where the couples are goaded into telling ever more outrageous racist jokes against one another, is hilarious yet horrifying.
Dominic Cooke’s vivid and fast-moving production grabs the attention and makes for an enjoyable evening out. Performances across the board are excellent, especially from Stephen Campbell Moore (replacing Martin Freeman, in New Zealand on Hobbit duty), Sophie Thompson in a dual role as a trembling housewife and an ignorant lawyer, and Lorna Brown as a ‘yes ma’am, no ma’am’ maid and a cynical contemporary woman. It seems destined to become a talking-point drama so you’d be well advised to see it.
Until 7 May. Wyndham’s Theatre, W1. www.clybournepark.co.uk
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