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Archive for March, 2011

A Mother’s Love at Wyck Hill

Tuesday, March 29th, 2011

My mum has received many Mother’s Day gifts from me over the past 20 something years – from the pasta shell covered cards of my Montessori days, followed closely by the bouquet of daffodils stolen from our neighbour’s garden, to some very dubious smelling rose petal perfume that she dotingly wore with pride.

But luckily for my mum the years of hand-made trinkets are over as I’m now of an age where my imagination (and my budget) allows me to think a little more extravagantly when it comes to showing her how much I care.

Which is why she found herself one sunny Friday afternoon on a First Great Western train, enjoying a G&T, as the beautiful English countryside rushed past. Her destination? Wyck Hill House Hotel and Spa in the heart of the stunning Cotswolds.

With snowdrops poking cautiously through the ground, rabbits gamboling on the green banks, and the late afternoon spring sun glancing off the windows, Wyck Hill is a welcome sight for city sore eyes!  The main house itself is a lush mix of sweeping staircases and oak panelled walls, combined with avant garde flower displays and ultra modern metallic wallpaper.

Our home for the night was not in the main house, but just a short stroll along a charming garden path leading to the old orangery. Our room was the epitome of country chic, but without a doubt the most impressive feature was the stunning double doors that flooded the room with light. Opening directly onto our own private terrace, the wicker sun loungers proved the perfect spot from which to watch the sun go down as we sipped on a chilled glass of Chablis.

Dressed for dinner, we headed for drinks in the bespoke open air humidor. Despite the impressive whisky and wine selection, a Kir Royale was our tipple of choice – like mother like daughter.

Dinner was served in the AA 2 Rosette award winning restaurant, where I persuaded my mum to dismiss her diet for the evening and tuck into a lavish four course dinner.  A refreshing amuse bouche of leek soup with apple crisp was the first thing to grace out lips – compliments of the chef.  To start I opted for the air dried ham with Manchego cheese and honey roasted black figs, whilst my mum selected the crab, ginger and coriander cakes dressed with tomato and caviar.

For mains, the fillet of Hereford Cross beef could not have been more succulent and delicious, whilst my mum’s choice of sea bass in a shellfish cream sauce accompanied by saffron potatoes was eliciting sighs of delight even from me, a self confessed non fish fan. Pudding was to be shared owing to our joint love of all things chocolate, and the milk chocolate ganache with passion fruit mousse and a side of chocolate macaroon did not fail to disappoint.

The next day we headed to the Elemis Spa in the depths of the house for some much needed pampering.  Dressed in deliciously fluffy white robes, we were ushered into the ‘Relaxation Room’ onto day beds swathed in burnt gold chiffon where icy mineral water and the latest glossy magazines awaited us. I had opted for the Herbal Lavender Repair Facial, with my mum choosing the Visible Brilliance Facial.

With the scent of lavender in the air lulling me into a calming daze, the cool hands of my therapist worked and massaged their way over my skin; ending in the most heavenly hand and arm massage I believe I will ever have the privilege of experiencing.  My mum emerged from her own treatment in a similar state, feeling renewed, refreshed, and of course looking ten years younger.

The Mother’s Day experience at Wyck Hill is undeniably an incredible way to spoil your mum, but the best part is simply spending some rare time together in one of the most beautiful and peaceful locations in England. In fact why wait until Mother’s Day for your visit, a weekend at Wyck should be mandatory at least once a month – happily my mum agrees with me.

Wyck Hill House Hotel, Stow-on-the-Wold, The Costwolds, Gloucestershire, GL54 1HY

www.wyckhillhousehotel.com

A Night of Fashion Firsts

Monday, March 28th, 2011

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An Operatic Success

Thursday, March 24th, 2011

Covent Garden is, surprisingly, a bit short on the kind of decent yet unpretentious places that one can pop into pre or post theatre or opera to get a meal that’s not going to break the bank but offers something altogether different to your usual chain experience. Thus, the advent of the Opera Tavern, from the people behind the much-acclaimed Salt Yard and Dehesa, was welcomed with open arms by locals and visitors alike. As with its two predecessors, it offers high-quality Spanish fare in a buzzy, fun atmosphere at sensible and affordable prices.

The difference is that, if you’re the kind of person who groans at the concept of a restaurant where the vibe is sangria and ‘Hola!’, then this is going to be an extremely pleasant relief, offering the kind of nuanced cool that NY has been doing brilliantly for years but has caught on much less here than it should have done. Downstairs is a no-reservations tapas bar, whereas upstairs is a (slightly) more formal restaurant, which takes bookings. Both were heaving on a recent Friday night visit.

The copious menu offers a range of, essentially, upmarket bar snacks and tapas-sized versions of main courses. Of the former, the not particularly Spanish Scotch eggs are a highlight, with rich, flavoursome pork complemented beautifully by the perfectly cooked egg. This is easily comparable to my two favourite Scotch eggs in London, at Highgate’s Bull and Last and from the excellent butcher The Ginger Pig. Another highlight is a moreish miniature burger made up of Iberico pork and foie gras. A decadent delight, its small form belies the fabulous, melt-in-mouth taste that this offers. My companion, a girl not unacquainted with the finer things in life, promptly pronounced this her favourite dish – Ever.

Sound though this particular value judgement may or may not prove to be, the slightly larger plates offered a riot of taste and flavor. Crispy squid and sea purslane with aioli is a welcome change from the carnivorous repast, tasting faintly Oriental but without any greasiness or fattiness. I often regard belly of pork as a ‘control’ dish in restaurants – if they get it right, chances are that the rest of the menu will work as well – and this one was a delectable example, with cannellini beans bringing out the rich taste. All of this was ably complimented by a full, rich bottle of Tempranillo.

The Opera Tavern isn’t attempting to offer anything experimental or boundary-pushing. What the highly accomplished chefs, and the charming and helpful staff do is to make this the highest form of comfort food. You will leave, wallet not appreciably lighter, with a happy smile on your face and a desire to go back there in the very near future.

23 Catherine Street, WC2. www.operatavern.co.uk

Blown Away at Hershesons

Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011

It’s a Friday morning and I’m walking through Old Soho on the way to Quintessentially HQ; my nails are minxed to perfection, my new KG heels are shining and thankfully pain free (for the moment at least) and I’m looking forward to a weekend away ‘Oop North’ celebrating two very good friends recent entry into the world of the affianced.

Then disaster strikes; the skies darken at lightening speed and the heavens open, at which point I realise my trusty umbrella is sat on my desk on the other side of Soho Square.

Fast forward three minutes and I’m looking at the remains of my carefully curled locks that have been tangled into a mess of dreadlock proportions thanks to the good old British weather. So what’s a girl to do? The she-lion look I’m currently sporting is definitely not going to work, and short of dashing to Oxford Street and buying a hat, the situation looks pretty hopeless.

And then I’m thrown a lifeline, in the form of Hershesons Blow Dry Bar in the hallowed depths of Topshop on Oxford Circus. The Hershesons concept of ‘stealth styling’ is truly miraculous: in just 30 minutes they can take a hair disaster and turn it into your ultimate hair fantasy – and the best part? You don’t even need to book an appointment.

On entering the bar, the team obviously saw the look of panic in my eyes and ushered me calmly to my seat, produced a glass of ice cold water and showed me the hair menu from which I could chose my new look.

There are 10 styles on the menu ranging from the classic up do in the shape of ‘The Bardot’ to the more avant garde ‘Rag-a-billy,’ a mass of plaited punk perfection.

My stylist informed me that ‘The Audrey’ is the current favourite given the London girls love of the messy bun, but I opted for ‘The Wavy Gravy’ a ‘tousled beach babe meets rock chick’ look – Sienna eat your heart out.

As the warm water soaked through my hair and my scalp was massaged to perfection, I finally began to relax and delight in the luxury of being pampered in the middle of my working day, knowing that I would be back at my desk before my lunch hour was even over.

Using a myriad of Hershesons own brand styling tools (the incredible Hershesons tourmaline waving wand is already on my wish list) my hair was gently blow-dried to give it some added oomph, then the ends were wrapped around tongs and cajoled and teased into perfect curls. A quick brush of my stylist’s skilful fingers to finish, and the mirror revealed a mane of perfect boho waves and one very happy girl!

In just 30 minutes I had gone from drowned rat to Primrose Hill princess and all for just GBP 24. With three salons in London including a brand new store in One New Change in the heart of St Paul’s, there isn’t any excuse not to head to Hershesons and try the Blow Dry Bar experience for yourself. In fact with the sun shining and a hot date on the cards, I think I will be heading back there tonight.

That’ll teach the weather to rain on my parade.

www.hershesons.com

The Globetrotter

Monday, March 21st, 2011

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Penny Black, Chelsea

Thursday, March 17th, 2011

Every Wednesday evening, at a very British institution strewn with cobbled streets and fudge shops and ladies in black gowns, I would slick my hair back gently and put on a reserved smile. I would then move into the traffic of black gowns that flowed into a large hall. On each table I distinctly remember a folded card with someone’s name written in gold pen, white cloth, polished silverware, and a sky of paintings and Latin prayers that no-one paid the slightest attention to. It used to be that you could choose who you sat with; and then the Dean or Master of Ceremonies said that this wasn’t ‘in the spirit of things’, and so you made do with awkward silences and shifty glances over your shoulder for the main and dessert. That is, until the wine came and you all got completely blathered.

This is supposed to be about a cool London restaurant, isn’t it? Give me a moment, please. Feelings are palpable things, rich with imagery and memories and worlds that you want to hold onto, or let go of. The places we go and see and like – it’s not all a matter of taste… or rather, taste is not coincidence… it’s no more than a development of your imagination.

I’ve got my hair gently quaffed up now, and I stroll into Penny Black, Chelsea; and, yes, the nostalgia greets me before the ballet of pretty penny’s do; It’s got a nice ring to it, this place, but all I’m seeing are those days when the Champagne flowed from gilded cups, those halcyon days when I thought myself something special; and the Champagne flows now. In Penny Black, it flows with the cool chrome at the lounge & bar, and the specially commissioned Simon Claridge paintings on the walls; it flows in the old British style with a surrealist twist (they have an original Salvador Dali on the far wall, for instance), and it flows in the precision of the menu, the dialectic of the bone-coloured wine list. It’s a full on British revival, and there’s the regal red and black of it everywhere now. Look at the columnists; they’re all giving inches back to this institution, built from toad’s in holes, roasted turbot, forerib of Longhorn beef, Paddington duck and sweet things your Mum’s mum used to bring in after tea; Arctic rolls, posh jelly and bread & butter puddin’.

Out with the international then, with pan-fusion and cutely-cut vegetables that they throw on the pan for a moment and call it ‘gourmet’. In with cool Britannia, unless we’re talking about the wine; a pretty good way to start the conversation, and to end it if need be. It comes by the glass, carafe and bottle, and there’s a personal bottle service for those with mean pairing skills (though the Sommelier is quite something, I tell you). She’s already pouring the light Argentinean red, and my fingers are twitching from starter to main to dessert; the music is classical, soothing, Beethovenish (every 21st century institution needs its theme tune); but the lights are too bright and so my date can’t see how my eyes dilate. ‘I know what I want’ I say; ’Roast root vegetable salad, then the Beef Wellington, potato and celeriac bake…finish it up with the Bread and butter pudding ’. She has the London Particular soup to start, Seared venison, Jerusalem artichokes, duck fat chips with a South African glass of 2008 lilac wine; Chocolate fondant & raspberry sorbet to finish.

Verdict: The signature Beef Wellington was the best I ever tasted, honestly; perfectly done medium-rare with the puff pastry layer so succulent that I’m calling the chef a genius. They say he worked with the legendary Oliver Peyton at Atlantic Bar and Grill. But this inspiration is all his own. The chocolate fondant, stolen signature dessert, drips off the spoon, tight grip as she tries to steal it back, lips-first. Hey, every institution needs its trademark dish, and these are theirs. You extrapolate between the two and what you get is a haze of sensory nostalgia.

People – British or not – if I told you this place does a magnanimous, stoic job of bringing hearty British food back to the faithless London gastro-scene, I’d be speaking figuratively, swayed by my own particular blend of reality and fiction. Still, you can’t help but go again; not after this.

www.thepennyblack.com/

212 Fulham Road
Chelsea, SW10 9PJ
0845 838 8998

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