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Archive for May, 2011
Lifting the Lid on Cannes
Tuesday, May 31st, 2011The Whistling Shop
Friday, May 27th, 2011
Perched on a stool beneath a lamppost straight out of Narnia, I half expected to see Nancy mid-blazing-row with Fagin on a Chesterfield sofa, while Jude proved his Latin speaking prowess at the bar, and Sherlock whipped his monocle from his top pocket to decipher the menu through candle light.
The latest offering from Fluid Movement of Purl, the Worship Street Whistling Shop brings 1825 to 2011.
Location wise, it’s as if someone’s stuck a drawing pin in a map of East London at exact centre between the Old Street – Liverpool Street – Shoreditch High Street triangle. It should be the perfect place for a trendy bar, though the quiet road appears as a no-man’s-land that can’t decide if it pledges allegiance to the City or Shoreditch.
That said, judging by the Wednesday evening buzz just a few weeks post-opening, the whistle of its name seems more like a whirlwind; all dark wood, gilted filigree ceilings and dark corners, the basement interior celebrates the conviviality of Dickensian drinking, with a huge central table asking for a banquet with pyramids of fruit and rabbit pies and mammoth moulded jellies.
Back to sitting beneath the lamppost, I’m whirring my way through the cocktail menu. There are so many unusual ingredients in each of the 11 concoctions on offer that the menu warrants its own glossary – and to make it even more apothecary-esque, each of the unique flavours, brews and distillations is made by staff clad in Victorian outfits (braces and all) shut inside a laboratory that provides a haunting reminder of lower school Chemistry lessons.
Fancying a little fizz, I begin with Gold Dust: Preservation Liqueur (‘fleetingly real herbs and spices’) and Chlorophyll Bitters (Chemistry dumped for Biology) are hidden within what appears as a plain flute of 2006 Nyetimber Brut. It’s fairly complicated, but a full blown party for the palate.
Curiosity gets the better of me to sample the Radiation Aged Cocktail. A heady blend of Rum, Chip Pan Bitters (yes, really) Campari, Dubonnet, home-made grenadine and a sucker punch of Absinthe at the end, all irradiated, it takes Ryan a good couple of minutes to charm me with how it all works, but that’s what the place is all about.
Perhaps most exciting is my late discovery of the Dram Room; an inconspicuous box within the bar with a bathtub plonked in the middle, and bench seating for eight either side. Strewn with straw and a mix of herbs – juniper, coriander et al – to trick the senses back in time, the piece-de-resistance is a cupboard stacked with gin and an honesty bar set up.
I’m told that the ‘Emporium’ is about to open, taking guests on a fully sensual alcoholic journey through the ages, beginning with the history of rum.
This might well be my new favourite place.
63 Worship Street, EC2A 2DU
Tommy Nutter: Rebel on the Row
Wednesday, May 25th, 2011
Tommy Nutter produced bespoke tailoring with a particular brand of eccentricity that can only be described as ‘English’. A generous smattering of the witty but perfectly formed creations he produced during his twenty year career, can be seen at the Fashion and Textiles Museum all summer long.
The museum has been transformed into Savile Row circa 1969 with iron railings and sketched building facades framing Nutter’s distinctively cut and flamboyant suits. His tongue-in-cheek approach offset with masterful cutting dragged Savile Row, kicking and screaming (perhaps), into the modern age.
Accompanied by a host of celebrity clients, Nutter blew the cobwebs out of the corners of a cloistered world and thrust it into the limelight. The exhibition features suits worn by Mick Jagger, Elton John, The Beatles, Charlie Watts and Robin Gibb, which make the descriptive labels read like a rock-and-roll Hall of Fame.
The exhibition is co-curated by Timothy Everest who trained with Nutter in the late 1980s and provides us with an invaluable insider view on Tommy’s world. Everest’s personal memories of working with Nutter have helped recreate the ambience of the Nutter atelier, with both the studio and shop floor having been authentically replicated, giving the visitor an idea of what went on behind the shiny black doors and big brass door knockers of Savile Row.
The flair and individuality of the clothes on display is a testament to bespoke tailoring which can realise personal taste in a way no other mode of fashion can. So if you fancy yourself a dramatic black and white all-in-one pantsuit then get yourself an appointment at Savile Row.
The museum are also running a range of events, so if you, like a certain young gentleman I know, think that you can make a dazzling pair of suit trousers by drawing around your legs and sewing it together, then you might just learn a trick or two by booking into the tailoring workshops on offer during June and July. For more information click here.
The Tommy Nutter- Rebel On the Row exhibition is at the Fashion and Textiles Museum, near London Bridge. Opening times Tues-Sat 11am- 6pm.
East Meets West at Amber
Tuesday, May 24th, 2011
You’d be forgiven, on arriving at Amber, for thinking you were in the 1st arrondissement of Paris rather than Central Hong Kong. You are greeted and whisked to your table by a slick French maitre d’; your choice of bread is quickly followed up with a tray of accoutrements – salted and unsalted butter and olive oil, in a bottle so beautiful it could sit on your dressing table.
Then there’s the décor – a contemporary, Michelin starred (Amber has two) approach which eschews palace of Versailles chic for cool colours and statement pieces. To wit: the chandelier made up of thousands of bronze rods which covers almost the entire ceiling and which vies with Richard Ekkebus’ cooking for star attraction.
Ah, the cooking. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental hotel, where Amber is ensconced, must be thrilled with Ekkebus. Not only has he brought two Michelin stars to the restaurant, three years running; he has, this year, placed Amber on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants – an achievement no other establishment in Hong Kong (or indeed China) has managed since 2005.
Back to the food… So the divine fois gras ‘lollipops’ encased in a raspberry shell are followed by sea urchin in lobster jelly, another signature dish. It is a masterpiece to look at, a startling shell sitting like a jewel on a bed of ice and filled with caviar, topped – just in case that is not ostentatious enough for you – with gold leaf. On the side are seaweed waffles, the first time I have tasted such a thing and very nice they are too – the crispy shards contrasting with the saltiness of the roe and unctuousness of the lobster jelly. The presentation is pure French showmanship but the ingredients are surprisingly Eastern – a mix that Ekkebus likes to play with throughout the menu.
We are here for the Wine Weekend Lunch Menu – six courses with matching wines. Sommelier Herve Pennequin has a reputation for choosing boutique and rare wines, both new and old world. We start with bubbles – Schramsberg from California which I haven’t seen outside of the Golden State, but evidently travels well. Then a grenache rose to match my foie gras and wild raspberry starter all of which goes down very well.
I could not be happier with my ‘middle course’: tiny brown morel mushrooms painstakingly stuffed with minced chicken and angel hair pasta with a creamy parmesan sauce, though I am covetous of the doll size ham and cheese toasted sandwich my date has with his asparagus soup.
I had been deliberating over the oxtail braised in red wine with foie gras and fresh pasta for the main but plumped for the more sensible order of Tasmanian salmon. It is roasted to perfection and served with refreshing white asparagus and sinfully buttery confit potatoes. Yet again I feel my date has chosen the superior dish though: roasted bresse guinea fowl with black truffle mashed potato. A dry red – 1999 Tannat – is a good match with both.
Three puddings are served as ‘tasting desserts’ the first: wild strawberries with green tea ice cream and coconut milk panna cotta is my favourite – a divine pairing of east and west if ever there was one. Special mention has to go too to the petit fours which are served delightfully in a silver tiffin box.
The Wine Weekend Lunch is a very reasonably priced 748 HK dollars including wine and is undoubtedly the perfect example of East meets West cuisine – a culinary merger that myself and the gourmands of Hong Kong are quite literally eating up.
Book a table while you still can!
Amber at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental: www.amberhongkong.com
There’s Something In The Water
Friday, May 20th, 2011
Verbier, Zermatt, St Moritz – been there, skied the slopes, and survived the apres ski. But what if, like me, you’re looking for something more from your next Alpine adventure, something new and undiscovered, where the atmosphere is as fresh as the powder atop the mountain.
Surely there cannot be such a place left in the Swiss Alps? Surely the winter sun jet set would have discovered such a treasure by now?
Well you’re wrong, allow me to introduce you to Leukerbad – Switzerland’s best kept secret. Located in the heart of the enchanting Valais mountain landscape, Leukerbad is the ideal retreat for those looking for the ultimate mountain experience regardless of the season.
I found myself winding along the picturesque road to Leukerbad just a few weeks a go – ever the optimist I was told there was still some snow to be found atop the higher peaks, so my ski bunny ensemble of Chanel goggles, sleek salopettes and faithful Redfoot zippy boots was packed and ready to go.
The first thing you notice about Leukerbad is the view, 360 degrees of stunning mountains and alpine greenery, with the picture perfect village caught in the middle.
Take the cable car up to the Torrent (vertigoans beware) and you will find yourself 2900m above sea level with a criss cross of blue and black runs at your disposal, as well as a small but perfectly formed mixture of mountain side restaurants for the sun worshippers and mulled wine enthusiasts to take advantage of.
With the sun out and the skiing a little rocky in places, I decided to check out the gargantuan network of unforgettable hiking trails in Leukerbad. A gentle hike on the Gemmi mountain was enough to satisfy my appetite for the natural beauty of the area, but for those feeling a little more adventurous there is a 950m descent from the Torrent to the village below, as well as Switzerland’s longest fixed rope climb on the majestic but slightly terrifying Dauberhorn – not for the faint hearted!
But to find the real magic of Leukerbad you have to look a little deeper below the surface, a few hundred feet to be exact, as that’s where the thermal springs that keep 3.9million litres of thermal water bubbling up to the village can be found.
When they say there’s something in the water here, they’re not lying – the mineral and healing powers in the water have attracted people to Leukerbad for centuries including some rather well known names including Charlie Chaplin, Pablo Picasso and Mark Twain.
I headed to the Burgerbad which has both indoor and outdoor pools at varying temperatures, including one rock carved grotto with waters of 51 degrees! For that extra touch of Quintessentially decadence, a floating banquet had been arranged complete with Champagne, croissants, fresh fruit and a selection of delicious local cheeses and bread, made even more spectacular by the mountains stretching around the pool.
And now to let you in on a little secret…
Taking its name from the unique temperature of the water, 51° Spa Residences from The Swiss Development Group will soon be launching in Leukerbad. Designed by renowned architects Michael Graves & Associates, with interiors from Marc Michaels Interior Design – 51° is set to become the premier destination in the Swiss Alps. The first residence to be supplied completely with thermal water from Leukerbad’s springs, I am just longing to step out onto my private balcony, where my very own outdoor thermal pool awaits me, along with an awe inspiring view of the mountains overhead.
A world renowned spa, hit-tech fitness area, screening room, international restaurants, private wine cave and a wine bar managed by none other than Quintessentially Wine, are just some of the incredible benefits available to everyone staying at 51°.
With a spectacular launch party planned for later this year, the beautiful and famous will soon be flocking to Leukerbad to test out the water at 51° for themselves – isn’t it about time that you joined them?
Caught in a Trap
Thursday, May 19th, 2011
It might have been the ever so slightly effervescent Moscato d’Asti, but this whole place seemed to have a slight touch of the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory about it.
Towering Corinthian columns are striped in grey and white, with a shine turning them into giant candy canes that disappear through the seven-metre ceiling. A huge mosaic glistens in the early evening light, streaming gently through linen-ed windows and a gigantic glass-fronted wine cabinet appears more like an emporium for magical creations.
David Collins’ interior is a wonder to behold, but the cuisine at Massimo Restaurant and Oyster Bar is such a star in itself that it needs none of my wonderings into Roald Dahl territory.
Half a dozen oysters, wafer thin sea bass sashimi and baked sardines have given way to grilled octopus with avocado, bound together with a perfectly garlicky aioli, which disappears as quickly as the diver scallops with broccoli puree opposite.
I may have been caught slurping my way through an oyster at the precise moment Massimo Roccioli (of Rome’s La Rosetta) strolled over to introduce himself, looking resplendent in chefs-red and classic Italian thick rimmed glasses, but such is the feel of the place it’s no matter – he’s put us instantly at ease.
Though slightly imposing on arrival with one of those wooden floors that picks up every click of my heel, a soundtrack as chilled as my glass of Sauvignon, soft button leather banquettes and delightfully attentive staff foster an atmosphere that feels as convivial as Massimo’s kitchen table.
My sister and I have been convinced that really we should have four courses, including a pasta in our choice – for Italian tradition, at least. Aurora is dead right: nothing should be missed here, but I fear she has over-anticipated my stomach capacity – my tip would be to share pasta if you want to make it to dessert. That said, linguine ‘Carmelo’ style, a tribute to Massimo’s father, is so packed with clams, prawns, squid and mussels that I utterly fail on any sort of restraint.
Our main courses are refreshingly light – my sea bass with crispy red prawns and green beans practically skips off the plate, so fresh is the fish and so delightful the flavour, while monkfish gratin with asparagus is equally as triumphant.
Having been a little hasty with the pasta, and knowing how gelato is always a good sign of a true Italian, I plump for a dessert of sorbet. Instantly, I’m ducking out of the heat in a little Florentine café…
There are too many other temptations vying for my attention to keep me away from here for long. Massimo’s got me hooked.
Northumberland Avenue, SW1Y
massimo-restaurant.co.uk
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