Brand new to Fitzrovia, The Riding House Café is the latest brainchild of the same team that brought us Village East and The Garrison. This is a welcoming, bustling bistro den, the sort of place that demands a closer inspection when one happens to be strolling through an evening, looking for a place to meet with friends.
The immediate warmth is enhanced by the forthcoming greeting one receives from the front of house. The first two physical fixtures that jump out are the long social table and a huge bar in front of the open kitchen; both areas are alive with the sort of people that want to unwind with a few drinks, indulge their imagination over menus, or simply reflect on the madness of a city that doesn’t think itself mad at all.
We are led to the dining area – barely more formal – but a tad more organised. Red leather upholstery, dark wood panelling and light fixtures crafted from stuffed squirrels suggest an avant-garde mind was involved in the design process; uniquely clad individuals given a couple of whiskies (on the house), and an insight into the ‘Riding House’ mind to abstract in whatever manner they felt appropriate.
The cocktail list here is also an interesting read – concoctions resplendent with creativity that you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else. The Man on Fire Margarita caught my attention as a blend of flavours I adore, yet have never had the luck to try together; Islay whisky, mescal, vanilla and honey, the Scottish and Mexican flavours so delightfully infused that the characteristic smoke from both alcohol variants whirled to the forefront.
So what’s recommended in the way of food? Well, on sampling a pick of the small plates, including the pork belly, steak tartar, sea bass ceviche and cured sea trout, the sea bass stood out as the best of the four – light, refreshing and enough happening with every mouthful to leave you wanting more. For those who don’t know how much they want, small plate eating is a fad you’ll probably welcome; variety on the table turns a meal into a journey through different times and places to a progressive destination with pauses for Moorish lamb or Chermoula spiced poussin involved somewhere along the way.
Onto dessert; another adventure all its own, a hot fudge sundae taking me back to a childhood of ice cold vanilla under a thick ooze of hot fudge, topped with a commotion of honeycomb and macaroons. As I tried to scrape the last spoonful of melted vanilla and chocolate out of the bottom of my glass, my watch struck ten – time had gotten the better of me. Late for a separate adventure, I struggled to leave my new found den, so engrossing I now felt part of the furniture.
With all the small and wild crowd pleasing dishes, stuffed squirrel designer chic and fashionista’s ambling through the doors whenever you take a sip of your honey-blended margarita, Riding House might just already be the new ‘IT’ place to dine.
43-51 Great Titchfield St
London W1W 7PQ
