Archive for November, 2011
Time with Will Stein
Tuesday, November 29th, 2011Escape from the Metropolitan
Wednesday, November 23rd, 2011
I was unsure what awaited me inside the Marriott County Hall Hotel. The highly considered bespoke finish of a boutique hotel rarely finds its place in a world renowned hotel chain with over 500 lodgings, and as we so often find in anything with huge mass appeal, the gatekeepers of your gourmet dining privileges, of your unequalled balcony view in your equally resplendent suite are often either sleeping, or not alive at all.
And so, pleasant surprise when, upon arrival we found that our suite looked out onto the Thames, the river below lit up with reflections of London’s most famous landmarks; Big Ben’s clock tower, Houses of Parliament and the impeccable silhouette of Westminster Abbey. So, to lay it out, this is quite simply one of the best views of the city, and possibly the most tranquil one outside of the Lake District – the commuters and tourists seeming so far away – a trump card for any inner city hotel. As you turn back to the room itself, you are greeted with the ultimate in traditional comfort and modern technology. The two king-sized beds, swathed in Egyptian linen, and the expansive sofa area, each with a plasma screen for a multiple viewing experience.
Down the corridor, there’s the newly refurbished gym, the 25 metre swimming pool and the spa for those that want to look drop dead gorgeous. On the way, one notes that although the contemporary features are plentiful, they do not detract from the overall vintage feel that weaves its way through the hotel. Nearly a century old and having endured quite extensive refurbishment, the building still houses a wealth of original features; not least the library where we had a rather unusual evening meal, surrounded as we were by both the grand and the understated – the open fireplace, period decor and original floor to ceiling bookcases which enclosed either side of our table, with the light-imbued gift of one moonlit river floating by just outside.
The waiter, both charming and attentive, served the delicious three course meal – appetising courses coming one after the other with light and fluffy crab cakes, fresh smoked salmon, beautiful cuts of lamb and beef, and a scrumptious, melting chocolate soufflé – not forgetting some altogether sumptuous winter cocktails, including spicy apple and a classic Aston Webb Collins.
And so, after a very British meal, in very British surroundings, and a very calming sleep spent in crushed linen, we decided it was time to leave, quickly finding ourselves among the crowds on Westminster Bridge, only then realizing just how great an escape this hotel offers, how peaceful are its quaint corridors, how uncanny its objet’s du desir, and how profitable even one night away from city mania is to the mind, soul, and spirit.
London County Hall
Westminster Bridge Road
London, SE1 7PB
An Autumn Enchantment at Broadway House
Tuesday, November 22nd, 2011
It was sometime in early October that I sat down to dinner at Brasa in Fulham. I took the window seat, and she sat down very demurely and ordered a glass of Syrah Rose. I had the same, but it didn’t matter what I was drinking. Outside, the autumn light made the streets burn red and gold, and I half listened to her relate a date she had once been on. ‘One quite like this’ she said, ‘but the outcome was much more predictable. He wore a hat not dissimilar to your own, but his smile was softer, brighter, and his eyes made signs that he actually cared for my storytelling.’ She giggled, and paused over her starter of grilled baby squid, capers and shallots. I stuck my fork into the potted rabbit terrine, and called the waiter over, ordering another bottle of something, plucking at my cap, rubbing my chin, distracting myself by making small, sad shapes in the sourdough.
I realised then that words were needed, so I tried some pleasantries… ‘your necklace, is it…I mean, I have seen one quite like it…oh, it’s a real diamond?’ and then, with the gulp still in my throat, and my eyes turned to the little boy and his mam on the corner outside…‘they will be opening a new members club here. Do you watch Made in Chelsea? No? Oh, well they will be attending the launch party.’ I then hungrily did away with the 14 Oz Galloway Sirloin (“one of the best I have ever tasted” I said to myself right then), swallowing a large glass of Montepulciano d’Abbruzo as I did.
That night was one of those nights which end without much more being said or done or won. ‘Probably because the food and service did all the winning for me’ I reasoned later on, lying in my bed with a ridiculous smile pasted across a very confused face, remembering how she devoured the triple chocolate brownie and vanilla ice cream while I did my best Bruno Mars impression. ‘Nobody’s gonna tell me I can’t’ I had said apologetically, finding her smile too desirable to really make sense of my failed attempt to force feed her a spoon of white chocolate mousse, ginger crumble and strawberry coulis.
Now, nights come and go, and autumn winds turn colder, and a man keeps up his swagger by buying a tailored three-piece tweed suit, a new ‘long hat’, and for more informal occasions, tries the almost-unsightly almost-revolutionary prescription of crossing a waistcoat with a Lacoste polo shirt. Such was my attire when I stumbled up the stairs to the newly designed Broadway House Members Club just a month later.
My lips were curled up menacingly, for I knew she would be there again, probably standing in a red dress at the rooftop bar, sipping on a house fusion of chilli vodka, pink grapefruit tequila and lemongrass & ginger rum. The dress was purple, distinctly rich-looking and two emeralds glimmered on two perfect ears. She was framed by the West London skyline, draped in a cool mist that lingered about her bare shoulders. I was aware that this was going to be difficult, for there were three others marked on her horizon, with slicked back hair (the fineness of which reminded of a rare black stallion), polished shoes, and cigarette lighters that seemed to be set in pure gold. I didn’t notice the barbecue, the trays of champagne and the smell of apple wood chips diffused with Chanel No. 19 perfume. All I saw was the cherry in her mouth, the outrageous smoothness of her being.
Now please, indulge me a moment. The setting was spectacular – rarely have I been to a member’s club with a rooftop and waiters on hand to mix a homemade orange cocktail infused with Jack Daniels, marmalade and old-fashioned Victorian lemonade. Nor have I seen so many cool cats drift so far away from Shoreditch, each with their own peculiar brand of necktie. Nor has the feeling of complete and utter ‘love’ followed in one person’s wake, she, half-floating towards a gentleman lying nonchalantly on a black bean bag, his obvious prowess a razor to my heart. She held eye contact with him all the while, smiling, passing him a drink, before turning, her eyes opening wide, her lips pursing with amusement. ‘How long are you going to stand their staring at me? And what on earth are you wearing! You look utterly daft. Come here you mad boy!’
Later that evening, it was just me and her and the moon, with a couple of Nordic looking chaps in close proximity that didn’t appreciate my very particular method of grooming. ‘Are they going to be here all night?’ I ask casually, ‘I mean, it’s obvious that you can’t resist me. Even I can tell you that.’ ‘Well, you’ve definitely improved since last time’, she murmurs, sipping some Vina Pena ever so elegantly. ‘You can even put a sentence together this time. Really massive fail last time.’ ‘I know. I shouldn’t have worn that hat.’ I return, smirking bashfully. There is silence, and I offer to find her another drink. ‘No, I’ll get you one.’ She giggles, and sides away, her profile making me fall down onto the black bean bag. ‘You must be outta your mind my lady.’ I say softly, obscurely, almost tearfully as she goes down to the cocktail bar.
Broadway House Members enjoy the use of wi-fi, a licence open until 1am, priority dinner and party bookings at Brasa, access to Eight Members Clubs in Moorgate & Bank, and perks including hotel deals, members’ wine tastings and cocktails master class evenings.
Brasa London
474—476 Fulham Road
London SW6 1BY
Phone: 0207 610 3137
The Landmark’s Greatest Performance
Friday, November 18th, 2011
A lot of you will understand what I mean when I say that there’s a rather large vacuum in my Sunday nights. With Downton Abbey off our screens until Christmas, I have been left craving that old-world glamour and faded grandeur to which I had become accustomed. So, with no other suitable period dramas on the horizon, you will understand my delight when I received an invite to a Night at the Opera Gala Dinner at The Landmark.
Evoking the bygone era for which I’ve been pining, the outside of this stunning 19th century redbrick hotel is both impressive and imposing. Picture the scene, champagne flows at a reception in the Winter Garden, the venue for the evening. Surrounded by lush palm trees, people laugh and mingle against the background tinkling of the piano. Suddenly a hush falls across the scene. Dinner is served.
And what a sumptuous affair it is! 6 courses of exquisite food with matching wines to complement each dish. As I look around, I feel more and more like Lady Mary sitting in her dining room enjoying her usual elegant culinary fare. I decide that the cantankerous looking old lady on the table to our right can play the Dowager Duchess. The chap in the corner table even looks slightly like Matthew if you squint – perhaps not.
Dinner starts with a tastily spiced Jerusalem artichoke foam, pickled pear and coriander cresso, followed by a delicious salad of beetroot, whipped goats cheese, honeycomb & walnuts. I didn’t think I even liked beetroot. And then, whilst I was pondering my fickle taste buds, it began. A female voice soaring above the piano’s accompaniment, reducing its audience to silence. I must confess that I’m something of an opera lover. Puccini to be precise, regardless of what that may say about my tastes. You say a lack of gravitas, I say accessible to all. But that’s by the by and not wholly relevant.
A 20 minute interlude of Baroque opera performed by the talented artists of Opera Bespoke ensued, mesmerising the diners as they listened to popular arias by Handel and Mozart. Drawing to a close, we were left slightly dazed, struggling to adjust back to the realities of dinner. But once the food arrived, our attention soon snapped back to the mouth-watering sight before us. Hand dived scallops, crisp pork belly, pineapple & ginger, followed by aged fillet of beef, almond croquettes, broccoli & baby onions. The food was lip-smackingly good, and as we savoured the taste of these gastronomic delights, the music began once again.
French opera was the theme for this interlude, including classics such as “Flower Duet” by Delibes, (think British Airways) and “L’amour est un Oiseau Rebelle” from Bizet’s Carmen. As the diva strutted around the room, gracing chosen gentlemen with the gift of a red carnation, (including my smug boyfriend I hasten to add), I was left in two minds, desperate for the performance not to end, yet eagerly anticipating the delights of dessert.
A chocolate and blood orange mousse later and I’d forgotten all about Carmen. In fact, my ambitions at Lady Mary-esque deportment went straight out the window as I gobbled down the pistachio Bakewell, calvados cream and Granny Smith apple sorbet. Needless to say, the Dowager next to us still managed to maintain her crotchety demeanour, possibly aided by my relinquishing any futile attempts at well-bred elegance. No matter. The grand finale soon seized upon its captivated audience, with the esteemed performers belting out several of my much-loved Puccini numbers to bring a glorious end to the evening.
The Landmark’s Night at the Opera Gala Dinner is a night that will transport you to the delights of by-gone days. It may not be Downton, but its refined elegance captures the period completely. And you don’t even need any aristocratic credentials to enjoy it! Just don’t tell Carson that…
The Landmark, 222 Marylebone Road, London, NW1 6JQ
Share and Share Alike at Suka
Thursday, November 17th, 2011
Cuisine that is touted as ‘sharing food,’ inspires in me a quiet unease. Tapas dishes, gastro pub sharing platters, even ample buffets intended to feed a significant number of guests, trigger usually dormant internal anxieties. I don’t think of myself as a greedy person, but ultimately I do begrudge sharing my food if the possibility could arise that another consumer were to enjoy a larger or more varied portion than myself.
Luckily for me, (and my guest) the Malaysian fare at Suka at The Sanderson Hotel was bountiful, dispelling any misgivings about sharing I may have arrived with. Offering a culinary journey through the street-food capitals of Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Tawau, Suka’s talented chef Ahmad Shuib has selected dishes that lend themselves to the traditional sharing style of dining, perfect for a quick pre-theatre nibble with friends. Or, if you’re like me, an excuse to enjoy a lengthy banquet of dishes arriving on your table as and when they are ready to be devoured. The menu is available for a limited time only however, so you had better get your skates on.
After a delightfully warm welcome, which sets the tone for the rest of the evening’s attentive service, we are lead past the famous Long Bar – its gleaming 80 foot surface dotted with the colourful cocktails of the fashionable crowd that flock here for an after-work tipple – to our seats. Walking into the restaurant’s main space we are immediately embraced by a luxurious balminess, generated by the tall heaters placed throughout the room like lofty warmth-emitting trees. Combined with the huge splashing fountain and the ceiling-high foliage languishing against shimmering draped walls, you would be mistaken for thinking you had stepped into an oasis.
With a little help from our knowledgeable waiter Steven, we begin to tackle the menu. Everything looks incredible, but that may be because I purposefully rejected lunch (all but a coffee and two Oreos) in order to do this Malaysian feast full justice. We decide on six dishes, one from each section of the menu, and congratulate ourselves on our dedication to sampling all possible forms of Malaysian street-food, while sipping our complimentary cup of iced ‘Ahmed’s Mum’s Tea.’ This is a refreshingly fragrant concoction of lemongrass and sugar cane, the perfect palate cleanser with stomach settling properties, Steven tells us, no doubt pitying our soon-to-be-bursting bellies.
Before long, our first dish arrives. A firm favourite; king prawn satay with homemade peanut sauce. A dumpling-filled duck broth with shitake mushrooms and baby bok choi swiftly follows, with enormous tamarind and soy tiger prawns in tow. Impossibly fresh crispy squid with coriander and ginger vies for our attention, as a yellow coconut curry and wok fried noodles with beef land on our buckling table. This amount of food just really isn’t ladylike. But it is delicious.
As we both tuck in, my eyes rove over different dishes that are conveyed to neighbouring tables, (for research purposes only of course) and all look equally as sensational in presentation, and sheer palatability, as those before us. I doubt there is a dud dish on the menu, but if you do get lost amongst the Karis and Wonton Sups, the waiting staff are always on hand to advise. Steven’s recommendation – the crispy squid – is quite possibly the best I have ever tasted. I would have been perfectly happy with six portions of it alone.
The cocktails at Suka are almost meals in themselves, so varied are their flavours. The Vesuvio, a fiery mix of ginger, chilli, lemongrass and sugar, with a jaunty chilli pepper perched on the side of the glass, is literally lip tingling, while the fruity Oriental Daiquiri soothes sizzling tongues.
The only quibble I had? The near impossibility of tackling the succulent chicken legs in the yellow coconut curry with chopsticks as my only tools of combat. Not that this prevented me from trying. I even quelled my inner anxieties and shared my winnings with my guest.
The Sanderson, 50 Berners Street, London, W1T 3NG
www.sandersonlondon.com
Mischief and Hi-jinks at Cowley Manor
Tuesday, November 15th, 2011
Some hotels should come with a behaviour warning. Cowley Manor nestled in the glorious Cotswold countryside (90mins from London) featuring lakes, ponds, giant oak trees and a grand Victorian cascading waterfall, is the Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe meets Pride and Prejudice – or if you’re me, a boarding school fantasy come true.
The 55 acres of Grade II-listed parkland are overrun with wild flowers and thorny hideouts, ripe for secret rendezvous, and for anyone who checked in during the weekend of my visit, I can only apologise for my antics. Yes, the curvy naked lady on a first floor stone terrace was me… This is the kind of decorum Cowley Manor inspires.
Perhaps it’s the naughty Duke who haunts the corridors, or maybe it’s the tongue-in-cheek works-of-art hanging from dark panelled staircases. Whatever it is, there’s plenty at Cowley to encourage detention.
Thirty rooms (15 in the main house and 15 in the stable block), all feature generous bathrooms with rain showers and tubs big enough for two, bedecked with locally-produced Green & Spring organic products, plus free WIFI, flat screen TVs and Bose docking stations.
Our suite was large and airy with views over the lawn and lakes, so you can watch the ducks and geese play chase between the ancient trees. Completely void of any stately house gloom, and contemporary to the max, rooms boast Japanese-style low-slung four posters with vintage leather headboards, multi-coloured retro carpets (think DVF /Missoni), raspberry pink Arne Jacobsen Egg chairs and Swedish-style storage units to keep things tidy. The best room is number 17.
Throughout the hotel, the emphasis is on modern British design with bespoke furniture and original artworks, although it has to be said, some of the public areas feel a little shabby around the edges and could benefit from an update.
Book a table in the dining room for supper. It’s an impressive space with dramatic red ceilings, 12-foot French windows, parquet floors and comfy sage-green leather chairs. Our amuse-bouches were delivered in mini glass teacups, and there was nothing faddy about the pea and mint mêlée dedans.
Breakfast was served the best way: hot and fast. Fresh mango and sweet melon slices, black pudding (not too greasy) and firm local sausages. My only criticism was the tea which was served in a complex maraca-style Tovolo tea infuser. Too much fuss for my shaky morning hand.
The C.Side Spa is where Cowley truly excels. It’s more than just a chic space, it’s an architectural achievement. Boasting a slate-lined indoor pool and a glistening saltwater outdoor pool, open all year round, there are four treatment rooms, a gym, mani/pedi area, steam room and sauna. Go for a massage and you’ll be offered a choice of playlists – no danger of dolphin sonars or jingly-jangly yoga music here.
Whether you prefer to spend time in the spa, the shop (which has Vogue’s stamp of approval), the snooker room or your suite, I can think of no better place to unleash one’s inner schoolgirl. Just don’t tell your parents.






















