When Lewis Hamilton said he and his money were moving to Switzerland, “for the quality of life,” there were a few raised eyebrows and just one or two wry smiles. Let’s be honest, it isn’t exactly the first incentive which springs to mind.
So, with this prejudice guiding my opinion, my recent trip to Bern turned out to be a revelation. Whisked away from the airport in a slick Jaguar, I felt a strange sensation – calm. It’s something you forget living amidst the hustle and bustle of London, where everyone goes about their business in stony silence, hurrying their way through life as quickly as humanly possible.
It’s a sensation that pervades the whole of the UNESCO heritage site. Gone are the rude commuters and aggressive pedestrians. The city is blissfully serene, with cobbled streets and quaint little shops tucked under a covered walkway. This peacefulness is deceptive, fooling you into thinking you were in a provincial town rather than the capital of Switzerland. So just to remind you of where you truly are, there’s a bear park slap-bang in the middle of the city, where four furry examples of the city’s namesake reside.
It would be easy to think that Bern lacks a distinctive charm, but closer inspection reveals a latent sense of humour which is idiosyncratic of the city. Wander around the centre and you’ll find a colourful fountain depicting an ogre devouring some local children. Climb the Gothic Münster tower to discover a fantastic view of the Zeitglockenturm Clock Tower, with its rotating bears and squawking golden cockerel which flaps its wings on the hour. Bern is good-natured and charming, just like its residents.
During my stay at the Bellevue Palace Hotel, this pleasant feeling of calm continued. Located next to the Swiss parliament, the hotel is steeped in neoclassical grandeur, making it the undisputed choice for its neighbours’ esteemed guests. There’s an overwhelming sensation of refined elegance, which extended all the way up to my gorgeous suite with the most spectacular views overlooking the River Aare and the magical Historical Museum of Bern. Back downstairs, a walk through the sun-strewn atrium brings you La Terrasse, the hotel’s exquisite gourmet restaurant. Ipads are on hand for guests to watch a live web camera in the kitchens and send messages down to head chef Gregor Zimmermann and his team. It’s an innovative touch, which perfectly illustrates the Bellevue Palace’s synthesis of traditional appeal and modern facilities.
Continuing our travels, we moved on to Interlaken. Situated just an hour outside Bern, it’s the perfect destination for combining the great outdoors with a city break. Catching the train, we journeyed through valleys and alongside lakes, taking in the scenery and the mesmerising green blur of the pines as we escaped the city. Stepping off the train, the air was crisp and pure, welcoming you to this mountainous haven. Here, the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa sits between two beautiful lakes and at the foot of the eternally snowcapped Jungfrau, however, the main draw is its phenomenal spa, which provides the perfect compromise for those who want to enjoy the stunning views without leaving the comfort of the hotel. I indulged in an hour and a half of ESPA’s Authentic Swiss Alpine Herb Compress Massage, which soothes away tension through a combination of peppermint, nettles, lemon balm, thyme, marigold and mallow. It’s a treat for the senses, subconsciously reminding you that this alpine retreat is all about relaxation. It didn’t take long for all my tension to ebb away and as I enjoyed a light lunch in my bathrobe at the casual Spa Café, I felt completely regenerated.
As wonderful as the spa is, you’d be seriously missing out if you didn’t head out into the mountains for some exploring. Offering a range of adventure sports to suit all fitness levels, from mountain biking to white water rafting, there’s really no reason to stay indoors. We chose to hire e-bikes from Flying Wheels, electrically powered bicycles which have a variety of settings to help you up some of those more challenging hills. Following the Brienz river, we visited the picturesque Iseltwald fishing village as the sun was rising, giving the horizon a luminous and ethereal quality. It’s a truly beautiful setting, and the Chalet du Lac where we stopped adds a quintessentially Swiss feel, with its cosy, wooden interiors serving delicious hot chocolate. Quite frankly, I found it difficult to drag myself away from this idyllic spot, but the promise of waterfalls had me back on my e-bike, eying up the imminent onslaught of many a steep incline with steely determination.
The Muelibach Falls are hidden away, nestled between the trees in a location only accessible by foot, but I can assure you, it’s worth the effort, providing a truly stunning view. By the time we’d got back to the hotel, we’d built up quite an appetite, so the traditional Swiss cheese-fondant we enjoyed that evening was a delicious relief. To be quite honest though, we were spoilt for choice, as the hotel boasts three fabulous restaurants, each accompanied by a fantastic list of local wines. The Cuvée Madame Rosmarie Mathier was a particular favourite, and provides a perfect introduction to the wonderful world of Swiss wine. Spoilt, relaxed and well-fed, I slept deeply that night, surrounded by an aura of complete well-being. 3 nights in Switzerland and I had never felt better.
Perhaps we shouldn’t judge Lewis too harshly after all.
http://www.bern.com/en/
