You’d be forgiven, on arriving at Amber, for thinking you were in the 1st arrondissement of Paris rather than Central Hong Kong. You are greeted and whisked to your table by a slick French maitre d’; your choice of bread is quickly followed up with a tray of accoutrements – salted and unsalted butter and olive oil, in a bottle so beautiful it could sit on your dressing table.
Then there’s the décor – a contemporary, Michelin starred (Amber has two) approach which eschews palace of Versailles chic for cool colours and statement pieces. To wit: the chandelier made up of thousands of bronze rods which covers almost the entire ceiling and which vies with Richard Ekkebus’ cooking for star attraction.
Ah, the cooking. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental hotel, where Amber is ensconced, must be thrilled with Ekkebus. Not only has he brought two Michelin stars to the restaurant, three years running; he has, this year, placed Amber on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants – an achievement no other establishment in Hong Kong (or indeed China) has managed since 2005.
Back to the food… So the divine fois gras ‘lollipops’ encased in a raspberry shell are followed by sea urchin in lobster jelly, another signature dish. It is a masterpiece to look at, a startling shell sitting like a jewel on a bed of ice and filled with caviar, topped – just in case that is not ostentatious enough for you – with gold leaf. On the side are seaweed waffles, the first time I have tasted such a thing and very nice they are too – the crispy shards contrasting with the saltiness of the roe and unctuousness of the lobster jelly. The presentation is pure French showmanship but the ingredients are surprisingly Eastern – a mix that Ekkebus likes to play with throughout the menu.
We are here for the Wine Weekend Lunch Menu – six courses with matching wines. Sommelier Herve Pennequin has a reputation for choosing boutique and rare wines, both new and old world. We start with bubbles – Schramsberg from California which I haven’t seen outside of the Golden State, but evidently travels well. Then a grenache rose to match my foie gras and wild raspberry starter all of which goes down very well.
I could not be happier with my ‘middle course’: tiny brown morel mushrooms painstakingly stuffed with minced chicken and angel hair pasta with a creamy parmesan sauce, though I am covetous of the doll size ham and cheese toasted sandwich my date has with his asparagus soup.
I had been deliberating over the oxtail braised in red wine with foie gras and fresh pasta for the main but plumped for the more sensible order of Tasmanian salmon. It is roasted to perfection and served with refreshing white asparagus and sinfully buttery confit potatoes. Yet again I feel my date has chosen the superior dish though: roasted bresse guinea fowl with black truffle mashed potato. A dry red – 1999 Tannat – is a good match with both.
Three puddings are served as ‘tasting desserts’ the first: wild strawberries with green tea ice cream and coconut milk panna cotta is my favourite – a divine pairing of east and west if ever there was one. Special mention has to go too to the petit fours which are served delightfully in a silver tiffin box.
The Wine Weekend Lunch is a very reasonably priced 748 HK dollars including wine and is undoubtedly the perfect example of East meets West cuisine – a culinary merger that myself and the gourmands of Hong Kong are quite literally eating up.
Book a table while you still can!
Amber at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental: www.amberhongkong.com
