QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | Leo Bear

CONCIERGE

Mischief and Hi-jinks at Cowley Manor

Tuesday, November 15th, 2011

Some hotels should come with a behaviour warning. Cowley Manor nestled in the glorious Cotswold countryside (90mins from London) featuring lakes, ponds, giant oak trees and a grand Victorian cascading waterfall, is the Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe meets Pride and Prejudice – or if you’re me, a boarding school fantasy come true.

The 55 acres of Grade II-listed parkland are overrun with wild flowers and thorny hideouts, ripe for secret rendezvous, and for anyone who checked in during the weekend of my visit, I can only apologise for my antics. Yes, the curvy naked lady on a first floor stone terrace was me… This is the kind of decorum Cowley Manor inspires.
Perhaps it’s the naughty Duke who haunts the corridors, or maybe it’s the tongue-in-cheek works-of-art hanging from dark panelled staircases. Whatever it is, there’s plenty at Cowley to encourage detention.

Thirty rooms (15 in the main house and 15 in the stable block), all feature generous bathrooms with rain showers and tubs big enough for two, bedecked with locally-produced Green & Spring organic products, plus free WIFI, flat screen TVs and Bose docking stations.

Our suite was large and airy with views over the lawn and lakes, so you can watch the ducks and geese play chase between the ancient trees. Completely void of any stately house gloom, and contemporary to the max, rooms boast Japanese-style low-slung four posters with vintage leather headboards, multi-coloured retro carpets (think DVF /Missoni), raspberry pink Arne Jacobsen Egg chairs and Swedish-style storage units to keep things tidy. The best room is number 17.

Throughout the hotel, the emphasis is on modern British design with bespoke furniture and original artworks, although it has to be said, some of the public areas feel a little shabby around the edges and could benefit from an update.

Book a table in the dining room for supper. It’s an impressive space with dramatic red ceilings, 12-foot French windows, parquet floors and comfy sage-green leather chairs. Our amuse-bouches were delivered in mini glass teacups, and there was nothing faddy about the pea and mint mêlée dedans.

Breakfast was served the best way: hot and fast. Fresh mango and sweet melon slices, black pudding (not too greasy) and firm local sausages. My only criticism was the tea which was served in a complex maraca-style Tovolo tea infuser. Too much fuss for my shaky morning hand.

The C.Side Spa is where Cowley truly excels. It’s more than just a chic space, it’s an architectural achievement. Boasting a slate-lined indoor pool and a glistening saltwater outdoor pool, open all year round, there are four treatment rooms, a gym, mani/pedi area, steam room and sauna. Go for a massage and you’ll be offered a choice of playlists – no danger of dolphin sonars or jingly-jangly yoga music here.

Whether you prefer to spend time in the spa, the shop (which has Vogue’s stamp of approval), the snooker room or your suite, I can think of no better place to unleash one’s inner schoolgirl. Just don’t tell your parents.

www.cowleymanor.com


Ulusaba: Branson’s African Pride

Tuesday, June 7th, 2011

If there’s one thing Sir Richard Branson knows, it’s how to spot a good location.

As well as Necker Island in the BVIs, Kasbah Tamadot in the Atlas mountains and a private lodge in Verbier, he also owns a charming rustic game lodge in South Africa called Ulusaba – ideal for safari first-timers, or for those short on time.

Situated on 13,500 hectares of privately owned land on the north-western border of Kruger National Park in a region called Sabi Sands, this little patch of savannah could well have the highest concentration of animal traffic in the whole of Africa. Put it this way: I’d spotted all of the big five within 24 hours of checking in.

There are two lodges here, both offering spacious tribal-chic rooms, some of which have plunge pools. Safari Lodge (11 rooms) is situated on the banks of a dry river bed, and Rock Lodge (10 rooms) is in the mountains, a cool five minutes’ drive away. Choose the Treehouse Suite at Safari Lodge for privacy – access is via a long chain of rope bridges and your only next-door neighbours are the 38 hippos who wallow in the watering hole below your deck. For awe-inspiring views, you can’t beat the Makwela suites at Rock Lodge. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the Lembozo mountains of Mozambique.

But the property’s most recent addition, Cliff Lodge, is its pièce de la résistance. Carved out of the rockface behind Rock Lodge, this five-storey house boasts two ultra-luxe glass-fronted suites plus a private gym and pool, all completed last year. It is a remarkable feat of architecture and naturally it’s the preferred choice for Branson when he is visiting with family and friends. Locate the swivel closet in the master suite where he stashes his pith helmet and you can leave him a note…

The atmosphere throughout the sprawling estate is laid back yet professional. The rangers are great company and have encyclopaedic knowledge of the area’s flora and fauna as well as excellent cocktail mixing skills, which come in handy on game drives. These are taken twice daily (at 5.30am and 4.30pm) in soft-seated Land Rover Pumas. Don’t worry if you’re not an early riser, there’s plenty to see on evening drives. Expect cheetahs, impala, white rhino, lions, buffalo, leopards, giraffes, elephants, hippos, warthogs and chameleons, plus the odd black mamba and boomslang snake cooling off on the dusty roads – these coilers are deadly, so keep your eyes peeled.

Like at most safari lodges, meals are communal (although private dining is available) and the shared experience works well, especially when twice a week, dinner is served al fresco in the bush by flaming torch light. Impala steaks, steamed yellowtail fish, moussaka and traditional mealy pup are delivered fresh from the grill onto linen-clad trestle tables.

Feasting in this way, around a raging bonfire under a red African moon, swapping stories from the day’s thrilling adventures, you can’t help but feel thoroughly at one with nature. And best of all, it’s perfectly do-able in a long weekend.

www.ulusaba.virgin.com

Leo Bear flew to Johannesburg with Virgin Atlantic. Transfers from Johannesburg to Ulusaba’s private airstrip are with Federal Air.


A Large Speck Of Paradise

Tuesday, October 19th, 2010

When city living gets too much, this is the place that Kate Moss checks in to. A tiny speck of untouched paradise with only 19 colonial-style houses, Naladhu has to be one of the chicest private escapes in the world. You could call it the Hamptons of the Maldives.

Opt for an Ocean House on the exposed side of the island – these have huge decks with traditional Maldivian swing-beds protruding over the dramatic booming, foaming ocean surf. Each house is kitted out with the usual state-of-the-art gizmos, a Lavazzo coffee machine and a walk-in wardrobe. The décor is old-school: ornate rugs, antique maps, wicker chairs and a giant teak sleigh bed. Best of all is the genius bathroom set-up: think spa garden. Oversized stone baths are set at eye level with your infinity pool with nothing between you and the vast ancient blue beyond but a single pane of glass. Occasionally, you’ll spot Naladhu’s private yacht or a traditional dhoni letting down its sail on the horizon, but otherwise, it’s just you and your other half. Your house master will make an appearance when and how you need him.

Meals are served in a palm-shrouded area just off the beach called the Living Room, which really does feel like a second home, with chessboards and cushions strewn about and a long glittering lap pool. Naladhu’s South African managers Chris and Elmine can be found here most mornings, barefoot in linens, setting a thoroughly relaxed and loved-up tone.

A visit to Naladhu’s world-renowned over-water spa is a must. Recently nominated Quintessentially Retreat Spa of the Year, it has thatched therapy rooms perched on stilts above the crystal-clear lagoon. Viewing panels are set in the floor so you needn’t miss out on a moment of the subterranean action while Thai therapists scrub and pummel you. After all, you never know what you might see; the colourful coral kaleidoscope of sea stars, unicorn fish, butterfly fish, stingrays and black tip reef sharks changes every few seconds.

Should, God forbid, a spot of desert-island ennui set in, worry not. Naladhu’s sister islands, Dhigu and Veli – also owned by Anantara, though a little friendlier on the wallet – are a short kayak ride away, providing further swaying palm trees, baby-soft sand, agar-coloured waves and a lagoon festooned with effervescent coral, as well as a plethora of watersports. We recommend you try ‘sea bobbing’ which involves clinging onto battery-powered ‘rockets’ that propel you along like dolphins at speeds of up to 20kmph. Ducking and weaving around the lagoon is pure Childs play. There’s also a cargo wreck you can explore on a night dive, that is, if you you’re not too full from dinner. There are five restaurants to choose from, serving everything from teppanyaki to tagines with some of the best wine lists in the Maldives. What’s really wonderful is that venturing over to one of these restaurants from your palatial love-nest on Naladhu gives you the feeling of having a night out. If you only make it to one of them, choose Baan Huraa, a traditional Thai restaurant set over dark crashing waves connected to Naladhu via a long wooden walkway, where dark-eyed waitresses deliver dish after dish of fragrant spicy delicacies, then weave origami birds at the table while you pay your bill.

News just in…
Q Insider has just got word that Anantara is further shrugging off aspersions that the Maldives will soon be below sea level, and is throwing open the doors to a brand-new resort in the Baa atoll in January 2011. We’ve heard the main restaurant, ‘Sea’, and the wine cellar have been built under water mind you – just in case. Thirty-five minutes by seaplane from Male, Anantara Kihavah is set to be the hippest place to down towels next year. Watch this space.

www.naladhu.com
www.anantara.com


« Back