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Tommy Nutter: Rebel on the Row

Wednesday, May 25th, 2011

Tommy Nutter produced bespoke tailoring with a particular brand of eccentricity that can only be described as ‘English’. A generous smattering of the witty but perfectly formed creations he produced during his twenty year career, can be seen at the Fashion and Textiles Museum all summer long.

The museum has been transformed into Savile Row circa 1969 with iron railings and sketched building facades framing Nutter’s distinctively cut and flamboyant suits. His tongue-in-cheek approach offset with masterful cutting dragged Savile Row, kicking and screaming (perhaps), into the modern age.

Accompanied by a host of celebrity clients, Nutter blew the cobwebs out of the corners of a cloistered world and thrust it into the limelight. The exhibition features suits worn by Mick Jagger, Elton John, The Beatles, Charlie Watts and Robin Gibb, which make the descriptive labels read like a rock-and-roll Hall of Fame.

The exhibition is co-curated by Timothy Everest who trained with Nutter in the late 1980s and provides us with an invaluable insider view on Tommy’s world. Everest’s personal memories of working with Nutter have helped recreate the ambience of the Nutter atelier, with both the studio and shop floor having been authentically replicated, giving the visitor an idea of what went on behind the shiny black doors and big brass door knockers of Savile Row.

The flair and individuality of the clothes on display is a testament to bespoke tailoring which can realise personal taste in a way no other mode of fashion can. So if you fancy yourself a dramatic black and white all-in-one pantsuit then get yourself an appointment at Savile Row.

The museum are also running a range of events, so if you, like a certain young gentleman I know, think that you can make a dazzling pair of suit trousers by drawing around your legs and sewing it together, then you might just learn a trick or two by booking into the tailoring workshops on offer during June and July. For more information click here.

The Tommy Nutter- Rebel On the Row exhibition is at the Fashion and Textiles Museum, near London Bridge. Opening times Tues-Sat 11am- 6pm.


Dior Illustrated: Rene Gruau and the Line of Beauty

Thursday, November 25th, 2010

If I could offer one piece of advice before taking a trip to London’s first major exhibition of René Gruau illustrations, it’s to practice rolling your Rs. I, alas, didn’t manage to perfect the aura of Parisian chic that seems so fitting to Somerset House’s latest display, but I hope I managed to absorb some of Gruau’s effortless sophistication simply by witnessing it. Even fashion novices will recognise many of these iconic drawings and can leave better informed, which is both a gratifying experience and a testament to Gruau’s pervasive influence in the House of Dior.

It was Gruau that Dior entrusted with communicating his vision and who continues to inspire John Galliano’s creations. One of his dresses pays tribute to the illustrator alongside the Dior New Look creations on display. Galliano states ‘to be inspired by Dior is to be inspired by René Gruau’. Indeed, echoes of Gruau’s ‘Flower Woman’ can be found in the delicate florals and enveloping chiffons of the Dior Spring/Summer 2011 collection. The master lives on.

What I enjoyed most about this exhibition was the Eau Sauvage section. This is a rare glimpse at men’s fashion in a major fashion exhibition. Gruau’s taste for controversy and humour are a welcome surprise – it is rare that a fashion exhibition permits a snigger, even rarer that it solicits one.

The curator from Somerset House, who worked jointly with a curator from the Dior Parfum Archives, has cleverly picked out five contemporary UK-based illustrators whose work demonstrates the continuing legacy of Gruau. Fittingly, limited edition prints are on sale so you can take some of the exhibition away with you for your wall at home. I was faintly disappointed that they had not been quite as ingenious with the Gruau designed Dior Christmas cards from the display – I was hoping to have the most stylish seasonal tidings in town this year.

If you have an insatiable love of fashion illustration, get yourself to one of the Somerset House Late Studios, a series of late night workshops where you can indulge in a cocktail or two and create something fabulous to take home with you. Inspired by the Dior Illustrated Exhibition the next three Late Studios offer you the chance to whip up a breathtaking headpiece, fashion your own chic paper doll or turn designer muse as you take part in a life size fashion illustration class.

Dior Illustrated: René Gruau and the Line of Beauty is open daily at Somerset House, between 10am – 6pm, until 9th January 2011.


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