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Aurelia

Thursday, December 22nd, 2011

Whenever I am wandering through the hallowed streets of Mayfair something that always amazes me is the sheer number of really excellent places to eat. Some might say that there are too many upmarket, luxurious restaurants around this area already to which I would respond “It doesn’t matter how many there are, the really good ones will go from strength to strength while the poor ones will be forgotten in a few weeks.”

Thankfully, the newly opened Aurelia, which specialises in Mediterranean and Italian dishes to share, is set to be one of the success stories.  The place was an absolute pleasure to visit and my evening spent there was one of the most enjoyable I’ve had in a restaurant in a long time. One of the reasons why it works so well is that the people behind it, The Waney Group, have a lot of experience in the industry, having masterminded favourites such as Roka and Zuma.

I was immediately impressed when I walked into the ground floor bar which is a friendly and welcoming place. I was even more delighted however when we were taken to the downstairs dining room which features an open kitchen, allowing diners to watch the various grills on the menu being prepared. The end product really is superb and the sharing aspect of the dining experience is a novelty. The leg of Salt Marsh lamb is served with a delicious pesto and the pork chop with fennel is very nearly a match for Heston Blumenthal’s own version at Dinner. I tucked into both of these dishes heartily and with some excitement much to my guest’s chagrin – he could only watch on as I got well and truly stuck in with carnivorous aplomb. Starters are also a real hit and the perfectly put together dish of mozzarella and tomato, which can so often be a very dull option, was creamy and full of flavour. Wines are carefully matched to the food with some excellent Italian and French bottles on offer, including a particularly good Chianti. We tried to drink sensibly throughout the evening but our good work was ruined by a fierce glass of Grappa which was produced at the end of the meal, needless to say the journey home slightly more blurry than it should have been.

It’s also worth making sure that you leave enough room for dessert because the sweets on offer are not to be missed. Choose from a rich cheesecake made with mascarpone, a semi-deconstructed crème brûlée or a fine cheese board, to mention just a few.

The service was friendly and efficient which is impressive given how busy it was. The fact that it was quite so busy is, in itself, notable given that Aurelia has only just opened. We even spotted a celebrity diner there in the form of Marina Diamandis, from band Marina and the Diamonds and this is certainly the sort of place where many more are sure to flock to. Aurelia is set to see out 2011 as one of the hottest places to be in London, and deservedly so. I am looking forward to my next visit already. Don’t forget, too, that it’s open for breakfast as well as lunch and dinner, making it a truly all-day option.

www.aurelialondon.co.uk

This World that We Seek at Hartwell House

Tuesday, December 13th, 2011

In the restaurant, we sat, just staring. Sometimes at each other, sometimes out over the plains of the forest and then out further across the twilight hours, carried as they are on the wings of a thousand swans, sometimes white, often black with all the poetry of nightfall. Their wings glide, high above Hartwell House and swoop along the rushes and further along towards Blenheim Palace and Woburn Abbey along the way.

It is here, just an hour from London, that deer dance across ravines now frosted over by the drip of mid-winter, tripping as they do across the Vale of Aylesbury. It is here that a lake shudders in lonely thought, impressed as it is by the silhouette of this 17-th century stately mansion – the very metaphor of ‘pensive reflection’ – in-awed by its strange inhabitants, by their laughter, their pensive smiles, amused too by their fond appreciation for its Jacobean furniture, its eerie figurines – each with their own unique countenance, becoming graver, darker, lighter, then stronger in bearing and power, then sensitive to your own sense of amazement as they climb up the sweeping staircase to 33 suites covered in fine fabric and a selection of shortbreads and ‘luxury fruit’.

I couldn’t figure out if my sighs in the almost forgotten candlelight were for the one, or for the other. My eyes rested on the one, the one I repeatedly called ‘buttercup’ (keeping a straight face all the while, and this just to try and make her laugh, for her smile had started so thinly, and was now growing steadily). My fork was heavy with a poached fillet of brill with lemon grass, and her lips were pressed against Ruinart Brut Rose, and they turned to find themselves reflected in the purple glass that divided the moon beam and shattered it on ten pale, motionless fingers (and one sapphire ring). I noticed that mine own eyes were both dilated, and shone with a similar intensity to that moon which found a place in her own.

Dear reader (for you are dear to me if you are reading this), you will ask me if such is the poise of romance that the world inside must find its immediate reflection in the world outside, that the sigh must escape from the heart into the ether and not in the other direction. And I will agree, and passionately at that. For what is this forest and these grand public rooms, the high ceilings and yellow cupolas and the fine paintings and the exquisite plasterworks (even if carved from a golden blade), and the beauty of this bookish garden, that infamous porch and its dark blue grass where a fountain and a poet that looks like you sit for one moment in time….what is it, and how can it be appreciated unless its sigh goes from the inside out, from one pair of eyes to another, from one lip to another, now acquiescing and saying ‘Yes. But look, there’s another one…another deer…another rabbit…another moon!’

My ponderings, so far, and so often, describe hats, and coats, the perfection of a stuffed saddle of rabbit (yes, and here it is brought over by one so elegant and softly spoken as to seem almost part of the country tweed that covers my shoulder), or the soft and supple notes of another glass of rosé that she had with the specialité de la maison – chicken breast with perfectly creamed potatoes – and the home made fudge or the pyramid of blackcurrant parfait with puddle of summer berry compote – so deliciously prepared, so thankfully devoured.

But I think of you as you read this, and I realise that such detail, though necessary, though in ‘the manner of things, and important for that reason’, are only details, and not the reason why you would choose to come here at all.

For I, in this twilight hour that I hold the pen, and remembering the air of wealth in that library with the great fire where we played chess for hours until finally she won (my boast has its purpose here too), and those fluffy white bathrobes, and that waistcoated man with the wide ancient smile that carried my bags out and into the waiting cab, and her smile as he hugged her goodbye, am left with a feeling of… Yes!

For it is the beauty of such a place in old Albion, with its lakes and swans and winding shadows so stoically wrought, that it holds the remnants of a thought that itself reminds us that such beauty cannot be around us if it does not exist with even greater potency within the very fibre of our beings.

www.hartwellhouse.com

It’s Beginning to Look a lot like Christmas

Friday, December 9th, 2011

With so many people to buy for and only 2 weeks left until the big day, you might want to take a look at some of the luxurious and stylish gift ideas Quintessentially Insider have put together in our Christmas Luxe List.  Fingers crossed a few of these little beauties will be finding their way under our tree this year!

Cox Cookies and Cakes: The Cook Book
With a foreword by Sir Elton John and David Furnish you know that the 75 recipes inside the pages of Cox Cookies and Cakes are going to be flamboyant, glamorous and decadently good! This is your chance to have a slice of Soho style and sauceiness in your own kitchen.
Priced at GBP 16.99

Grey Goose Deluxe Gift Box
Stuck on what to get a certain sartorial gentleman? Why not try this stylish gift box complete with a recipe for the classic Grey Goose Martini? Containing a 70cl bottle of the world’s best tasting vodka, this is the ultimate gift for martini lovers this Christmas.
Priced at GBP 33.50

Cosmetics à la carte
What could be a better gift for someone special this Christmas than beauty? Cosmetics à la carte offer custom blended make-up to suit your skin type and tone, even recreating a favourite discontinued lipstick should you desire it or inventing a re-formulation for allergy sufferers. This bespoke service is perfect for those who struggle to find make up which is both luxurious and comfortable. What’s more, Cosmetics à la carte also offer step-by-step practical lessons in make-up application, teaching you how to apply your personalised makeup. Perfect!
Starting Again Make-up Lesson Priced at GBP 180

Elizabeth Galton Studio
Offering bespoke jewellery from a number of talented designers, Elizabeth Galton Studio is the perfect place to buy a unique piece for someone special in your life. Let them know your requirements and they’ll find the perfect jeweller to make your piece. Alternatively, pick from the range of unique pieces they have on offer. Our favourite? The stunning Ana de Costa Emerald Ghandi Earrings.
POA

Molton Brown Fine Fragrances
Described as ‘An Artisanal Journey in Fine Fragrance’, the five fragrances of the Molton Brown ‘Navigations Through Scent Collection’ have been inspired by journeys through the ancient spice route, and are a perfume lovers dream. Our favourite scent is Lijiang, a floral, musky scent that captures the light, delicate softness of Chinese silk and crisp tea.  And as all of the fragrances are delightfully unisex, this is one present made for sharing!
Fragrances start at GBP 55, GBP 60 and GBP 65.

Cooper Oporto Ladies City Bicycle
From the people behind the classic Mini Cooper, comes the elegant, stylish and simple Cooper Oporto. The ultimate way to travel about town, the chic spring white frame and classic Brooks leather saddle will delight any style conscious cyclist. Simply tie a bow to the basket and you have the perfect Christmas surprise!
Priced at GBP 949.

Biscuiteers  Vintage Christmas
This vintage styled Christmas tin from the Biscuiteers contains a mouth-watering luxe collection of beautiful biscuit decorations. Filled with 16 intricately iced sparkly stars, jingle bells, gorgeous baubles, and stripy candy canes, each biscuit comes with a gold ribbon allowing you to hang it on the tree – if they make it that far!
Priced at GBP 38.50.

Carol Joy at Urban Retreat
Enter the wonderful world of Carol Joy with this incredible facial created exclusively for the Urban Retreat at Harrods.  The huge benefits of pure oxygen, cold laser, hyaluronic acid and pure collagen fibres are luxuriously combined with Diamond Dust and Golden Millet Oil to give exceptional results.   This is the ultimate pampering gift to give to someone special or to yourself.
Retreat with Carol Joy is priced at GBP 250.

Mount Street Deli Gift Hamper
This year’s range offers a luxurious selection of artisan produce and wines from the Mount Street Deli, The Ivy restaurant and Annabel’s Club, including a GBP 3000 limited edition Annabel’s hamper. All hampers are packaged in classic wicker baskets, complete with leather straps, making them a wonderful addition to any household.
Priced at GBP 150.

Merry Christmas from Quintessentially Insider!

Time for Tea at Harrods

Wednesday, December 7th, 2011

Not satisfied with a pizzeria, rotisserie, ice cream parlour, champagne bar, several cafes, caviar bar, sea grill, steakhouse, sushi bar and multiple fine dining options, Harrods have decided that there’s something missing in their gastronomic offerings. And lo, The Tea Room was born.

Celebrating the best of British, The Tea Room features a quintessentially English line-up of mouth-watering fare. Open all day, it’s the perfect stop for either a hearty breakfast before your shopping or a sumptuous break from all that exertion, letting you rest your weary feet as you indulge in some afternoon fancies and a cup of tea.

But guests beware; The Tea Room is one of those places you just won’t want to leave. Mixing a bistro vibe with that of a traditional English tea-room, it’s filled with luxurious green velvet studded sofas and simple wooden chairs, creating an elegant yet understated surround. What’s more, the food is to die for as the kitchen offers a variety of delicious options, from buttery brioche to tasty quiches and salads. It’s a wonderful treat any time of the day.

However, the traditional Afternoon Tea is the pièce de résistance, featuring a range of finger sandwiches, sweet and savory scones and delectable English fancies. With so many scrumptious treats including passion fruit posset, after eight pastry, boozy English trifle, banana pie bomb and lemon meringue slice, you might struggle to find a favourite.

So let us give you a suggestion – try the sticky toffee pudding gateaux accompanied by the Vanilla Excellence Chinese black tea. It’s the perfect sweet afternoon treat to stave off those winter blues.

The Tea Room is located on the Second Floor of Harrods and is open Monday-Saturday 10am-8pm and Sunday 12pm-6pm.

Woodstock & Hope House

Tuesday, December 6th, 2011

The small town of Woodstock, a short journey from Oxford, could accurately be called the beginning of the Cotswolds, complete as it is with honey-coloured stone cottages, a barrage of chi-chi antiques shops, the sort of cosy pubs that come complete with log fires and somnolent dogs as standard and, of course, history in spades. Famously, the town is also home to Blenheim Palace, ancestral seat of the Duke of Marlborough and birthplace of Winston Churchill, and its magnificent grounds offer a truly breathtaking walk through the Capability Brown-designed gardens, making for a glorious experience regardless of the season.

Woodstock boasts its fair share of high-end hotels, including The Feathers, but the place to stay if you want a genuinely special and unique experience is the fabulous Hope House. Dating from the early 18th century, it was built at around the same time as Blenheim Palace, but obviously exists on a far less grandiose scale. Part of this refusal to compromise on service and setting can be found in the small-scale way in which it’s run – it consists of three suites, all named after notable local figures and places, and one separate apartment in the building next door, the Six Bells, which is recommended for longer visits.

We stayed in the Blenheim Suite, which is a genuinely wonderful experience. Offering everything you’d expect from a really top-grade hotel, from a Blu-Ray player and iPod dock to a four poster bed and stunning marble bathroom, it’s conceived on a far more impressive scale than most hotels. There’s a sense of size and space to it that makes a night (or weekend, or week) here feel more like a visit to a private home than staying in yet another faceless entity, and the warm welcome from the staff completes this feel. Everything from the Smeg fridge which doubles as a minibar (a sensibly priced minibar, not the usual exorbitant prices) to the excellent full English breakfast included as standard in the small adjoining restaurant is about as good as it gets, and certainly made for one of the most enjoyable nights that we’ve had all year.

While the hotel can cater to groups for bespoke dinners on request, most guests are steered towards the nearby King’s Arms restaurant for sustenance, and it’s easy to see why. Offering a menu perfectly pitched between heartiness and subtle innovation, head chef Brian Arnold keeps hunger at bay with such excellently presented dishes as poached duck egg with creamed spinach and crispy bacon, Kelmscott pork belly with black pudding and cider sauce and braised shank of lamb with rosemary mash. Make sure that you leave room – even if you have to share – for the chocolate quartet dessert, which boasts four different but delectable kinds of decadent treat. The wine list is copious and sensibly priced, with some unusual bottles on offer; an easy recommendation is the Chapel Down Pinot Noir, an unusually gutsy and vibrant English wine that goes well with meat and fish alike.

A visit to Woodstock is always a peaceful and pleasant experience.   If you need to escape from the bustle and hassle of urban life, if only for a weekend, then come here and begin to relax. It’s easier to do than you’d think.

www.hopehousewoodstock.co.uk
www.kings-hotel-woodstock.co.uk

Novelli’s Sharp Expression

Thursday, December 1st, 2011


“Shall we have some Champagne? Yes, I’ll open a bottle.” Jean-Christophe Novelli has just swept through his chef academy; his accent and charisma enough to kill any suggestion it may not be wise to indulge quite so much before a masterclass with the world’s sharpest knives.

A moment after we have all sat down he begins to confer on us his great artistry, and the exquisite fineness of these knives. An onion is dispatched with startling speed to be used in a novel take on Christmas gravy; he includes both cocoa powder and vanilla.

Jean-Christophe Novelli believes the knives, which he designed in conjunction with Ziganof, are the only knives anyone needs to express themselves in the kitchen. The Japanese cleaver, paring and carving knives offer all the versatility you need.

Soon after he grabs a carrot, and after what look like a selection of random incisions, he presents a perfect orange flower. With this demonstration of what is possible it is our turn. We make our way to our chopping boards, it feels like an old episode of the Generation Game; I expect Bruce Forsyth to burst out at any moment – he doesn’t.

At this point I should admit I was expecting to be underwhelmed with the knives. As a keen cook I have good quality knives which I keep as sharp as I can, I didn’t think these could be that much sharper; I was wrong. They are, in fact, extraordinary, the blade is perfectly balanced, incredibly flexible and as soon as you start to slice, terrifyingly sharp.

Made with Damascus steel, a technique developed in the Middle East but perfected in Japan for use in the famously sharp Samurai swords, the knives combine ferocious sharpness with flexibility.

The technique, which sees malleable steel folded over a harder, brittle core, produces impeccably sharp knives. The Japanese cleaver has a core of TG10 steel, the hardest possible, with 66 layers of steel folded over the top. It is proof that excellent craftsmanship is, in itself, an art.

Classes at the academy are as diverse as French and West African cooking. Any fears over the authenticity of what you are learning are immediately dispelled after talking to the teachers. I asked Felice, the Italian tutor, what he’d do with polenta and was given a recipe from his youth in Italy, “Cook a mountain of polenta and put one sausage in the middle, whoever can eat their way to the middle gets the sausage – that one sausage can last for weeks”.

Presented in an attractive box these knives, which are made to last a lifetime and more would make an excellent addition to even the most well-stocked kitchen.

www.jeanchristophenovelli.com/partnerships/ziganof-knives/

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