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An Autumn Enchantment at Broadway House

Tuesday, November 22nd, 2011

It was sometime in early October that I sat down to dinner at Brasa in Fulham. I took the window seat, and she sat down very demurely and ordered a glass of Syrah Rose. I had the same, but it didn’t matter what I was drinking. Outside, the autumn light made the streets burn red and gold, and I half listened to her relate a date she had once been on. ‘One quite like this’ she said, ‘but the outcome was much more predictable. He wore a hat not dissimilar to your own, but his smile was softer, brighter, and his eyes made signs that he actually cared for my storytelling.’ She giggled, and paused over her starter of grilled baby squid, capers and shallots. I stuck my fork into the potted rabbit terrine, and called the waiter over, ordering another bottle of something, plucking at my cap, rubbing my chin, distracting myself by making small, sad shapes in the sourdough.

I realised then that words were needed, so I tried some pleasantries… ‘your necklace, is it…I mean, I have seen one quite like it…oh, it’s a real diamond?’ and then, with the gulp still in my throat, and my eyes turned to the little boy and his mam on the corner outside…‘they will be opening a new members club here.  Do you watch Made in Chelsea? No? Oh, well they will be attending the launch party.’  I then hungrily did away with the 14 Oz Galloway Sirloin (“one of the best I have ever tasted” I said to myself right then), swallowing a large glass of Montepulciano d’Abbruzo as I did.

That night was one of those nights which end without much more being said or done or won.  ‘Probably because the food and service did all the winning for me’ I reasoned later on, lying in my bed with a ridiculous smile pasted across a very confused face, remembering how she devoured the triple chocolate brownie and vanilla ice cream while I did my best Bruno Mars impression. ‘Nobody’s gonna tell me I can’t’ I had said apologetically, finding her smile too desirable to really make sense of my failed attempt to force feed her a spoon of white chocolate mousse, ginger crumble and strawberry coulis.

Now, nights come and go, and autumn winds turn colder, and a man keeps up his swagger by buying a tailored three-piece tweed suit, a new ‘long hat’, and for more informal occasions, tries the almost-unsightly almost-revolutionary prescription of crossing a waistcoat with a Lacoste polo shirt. Such was my attire when I stumbled up the stairs to the newly designed Broadway House Members Club just a month later.

My lips were curled up menacingly, for I knew she would be there again, probably standing in a red dress at the rooftop bar, sipping on a house fusion of chilli vodka, pink grapefruit tequila and lemongrass & ginger rum. The dress was purple, distinctly rich-looking and two emeralds glimmered on two perfect ears. She was framed by the West London skyline, draped in a cool mist that lingered about her bare shoulders. I was aware that this was going to be difficult, for there were three others marked on her horizon, with slicked back hair (the fineness of which reminded of a rare black stallion), polished shoes, and cigarette lighters that seemed to be set in pure gold. I didn’t notice the barbecue, the trays of champagne and the smell of apple wood chips diffused with Chanel No. 19 perfume. All I saw was the cherry in her mouth, the outrageous smoothness of her being.

Now please, indulge me a moment. The setting was spectacular – rarely have I been to a member’s club with a rooftop and waiters on hand to mix a homemade orange cocktail infused with Jack Daniels, marmalade and old-fashioned Victorian lemonade. Nor have I seen so many cool cats drift so far away from Shoreditch, each with their own peculiar brand of necktie. Nor has the feeling of complete and utter ‘love’ followed in one person’s wake, she, half-floating towards a gentleman lying nonchalantly on a black bean bag, his obvious prowess a razor to my heart. She held eye contact with him all the while, smiling, passing him a drink, before turning, her eyes opening wide, her lips pursing with amusement. ‘How long are you going to stand their staring at me? And what on earth are you wearing! You look utterly daft. Come here you mad boy!’

Later that evening, it was just me and her and the moon, with a couple of Nordic looking chaps in close proximity that didn’t appreciate my very particular method of grooming.  ‘Are they going to be here all night?’ I ask casually, ‘I mean, it’s obvious that you can’t resist me. Even I can tell you that.’ ‘Well, you’ve definitely improved since last time’, she murmurs, sipping some Vina Pena ever so elegantly. ‘You can even put a sentence together this time. Really massive fail last time.’ ‘I know. I shouldn’t have worn that hat.’ I return, smirking bashfully. There is silence, and I offer to find her another drink.  ‘No, I’ll get you one.’ She giggles, and sides away, her profile making me fall down onto the black bean bag. ‘You must be outta your mind my lady.’ I say softly, obscurely, almost tearfully as she goes down to the cocktail bar.

Broadway House Members enjoy the use of wi-fi, a licence open until 1am, priority dinner and party bookings at Brasa, access to Eight Members Clubs in Moorgate & Bank, and perks including hotel deals, members’ wine tastings and cocktails master class evenings.

Brasa London
474—476 Fulham Road
London SW6 1BY
Phone: 0207 610 3137

The Landmark’s Greatest Performance

Friday, November 18th, 2011

A lot of you will understand what I mean when I say that there’s a rather large vacuum in my Sunday nights. With Downton Abbey off our screens until Christmas, I have been left craving that old-world glamour and faded grandeur to which I had become accustomed. So, with no other suitable period dramas on the horizon, you will understand my delight when I received an invite to a Night at the Opera Gala Dinner at The Landmark.

Evoking the bygone era for which I’ve been pining, the outside of this stunning 19th century redbrick hotel is both impressive and imposing. Picture the scene, champagne flows at a reception in the Winter Garden, the venue for the evening. Surrounded by lush palm trees, people laugh and mingle against the background tinkling of the piano. Suddenly a hush falls across the scene. Dinner is served.

And what a sumptuous affair it is! 6 courses of exquisite food with matching wines to complement each dish. As I look around, I feel more and more like Lady Mary sitting in her dining room enjoying her usual elegant culinary fare. I decide that the cantankerous looking old lady on the table to our right can play the Dowager Duchess. The chap in the corner table even looks slightly like Matthew if you squint – perhaps not.

Dinner starts with a tastily spiced Jerusalem artichoke foam, pickled pear and coriander cresso, followed by a delicious salad of beetroot, whipped goats cheese, honeycomb & walnuts. I didn’t think I even liked beetroot. And then, whilst I was pondering my fickle taste buds, it began. A female voice soaring above the piano’s accompaniment, reducing its audience to silence. I must confess that I’m something of an opera lover. Puccini to be precise, regardless of what that may say about my tastes. You say a lack of gravitas, I say accessible to all. But that’s by the by and not wholly relevant.

A 20 minute interlude of Baroque opera performed by the talented artists of Opera Bespoke ensued, mesmerising the diners as they listened to popular arias by Handel and Mozart. Drawing to a close, we were left slightly dazed, struggling to adjust back to the realities of dinner. But once the food arrived, our attention soon snapped back to the mouth-watering sight before us. Hand dived scallops, crisp pork belly, pineapple & ginger, followed by aged fillet of beef, almond croquettes, broccoli & baby onions. The food was lip-smackingly good, and as we savoured the taste of these gastronomic delights, the music began once again.

French opera was the theme for this interlude, including classics such as “Flower Duet” by Delibes, (think British Airways) and “L’amour est un Oiseau Rebelle” from Bizet’s Carmen. As the diva strutted around the room, gracing chosen gentlemen with the gift of a red carnation, (including my smug boyfriend I hasten to add), I was left in two minds, desperate for the performance not to end, yet eagerly anticipating the delights of dessert.

A chocolate and blood orange mousse later and I’d forgotten all about Carmen. In fact, my ambitions at Lady Mary-esque deportment went straight out the window as I gobbled down the pistachio Bakewell, calvados cream and Granny Smith apple sorbet. Needless to say, the Dowager next to us still managed to maintain her crotchety demeanour, possibly aided by my relinquishing any futile attempts at well-bred elegance. No matter. The grand finale soon seized upon its captivated audience, with the esteemed performers belting out several of my much-loved Puccini numbers to bring a glorious end to the evening.

The Landmark’s Night at the Opera Gala Dinner is a night that will transport you to the delights of by-gone days. It may not be Downton, but its refined elegance captures the period completely. And you don’t even need any aristocratic credentials to enjoy it! Just don’t tell Carson that…

The Landmark, 222 Marylebone Road, London, NW1 6JQ

Share and Share Alike at Suka

Thursday, November 17th, 2011

Cuisine that is touted as ‘sharing food,’ inspires in me a quiet unease. Tapas dishes, gastro pub sharing platters, even ample buffets intended to feed a significant number of guests, trigger usually dormant internal anxieties. I don’t think of myself as a greedy person, but ultimately I do begrudge sharing my food if the possibility could arise that another consumer were to enjoy a larger or more varied portion than myself.

Luckily for me, (and my guest) the Malaysian fare at Suka at The Sanderson Hotel was bountiful, dispelling any misgivings about sharing I may have arrived with. Offering a culinary journey through the street-food capitals of Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Tawau, Suka’s talented chef Ahmad Shuib has selected dishes that lend themselves to the traditional sharing style of dining, perfect for a quick pre-theatre nibble with friends. Or, if you’re like me, an excuse to enjoy a lengthy banquet of dishes arriving on your table as and when they are ready to be devoured. The menu is available for a limited time only however, so you had better get your skates on.

After a delightfully warm welcome, which sets the tone for the rest of the evening’s attentive service, we are lead past the famous Long Bar – its gleaming 80 foot surface dotted with the colourful cocktails of the fashionable crowd that flock here for an after-work tipple – to our seats. Walking into the restaurant’s main space we are immediately embraced by a luxurious balminess, generated by the tall heaters placed throughout the room like lofty warmth-emitting trees. Combined with the huge splashing fountain and the ceiling-high foliage languishing against shimmering draped walls, you would be mistaken for thinking you had stepped into an oasis.

With a little help from our knowledgeable waiter Steven, we begin to tackle the menu. Everything looks incredible, but that may be because I purposefully rejected lunch (all but a coffee and two Oreos) in order to do this Malaysian feast full justice. We decide on six dishes, one from each section of the menu, and congratulate ourselves on our dedication to sampling all possible forms of Malaysian street-food, while sipping our complimentary cup of iced ‘Ahmed’s Mum’s Tea.’ This is a refreshingly fragrant concoction of lemongrass and sugar cane, the perfect palate cleanser with stomach settling properties, Steven tells us, no doubt pitying our soon-to-be-bursting bellies.

Before long, our first dish arrives. A firm favourite; king prawn satay with homemade peanut sauce. A dumpling-filled duck broth with shitake mushrooms and baby bok choi swiftly follows, with enormous tamarind and soy tiger prawns in tow. Impossibly fresh crispy squid with coriander and ginger vies for our attention, as a yellow coconut curry and wok fried noodles with beef land on our buckling table. This amount of food just really isn’t ladylike. But it is delicious.

As we both tuck in, my eyes rove over different dishes that are conveyed to neighbouring tables, (for research purposes only of course) and all look equally as sensational in presentation, and sheer palatability, as those before us. I doubt there is a dud dish on the menu, but if you do get lost amongst the Karis and Wonton Sups, the waiting staff are always on hand to advise. Steven’s recommendation – the crispy squid – is quite possibly the best I have ever tasted. I would have been perfectly happy with six portions of it alone.

The cocktails at Suka are almost meals in themselves, so varied are their flavours. The Vesuvio, a fiery mix of ginger, chilli, lemongrass and sugar, with a jaunty chilli pepper perched on the side of the glass, is literally lip tingling, while the fruity Oriental Daiquiri soothes sizzling tongues.

The only quibble I had? The near impossibility of tackling the succulent chicken legs in the yellow coconut curry with chopsticks as my only tools of combat. Not that this prevented me from trying. I even quelled my inner anxieties and shared my winnings with my guest.

The Sanderson, 50 Berners Street, London, W1T 3NG
www.sandersonlondon.com

Hedone-istic Delights

Friday, November 11th, 2011

Chances are that, unless you’re a student of the food blogosphere, you haven’t heard of Mikael Jonsson and his new Chiswick restaurant, Hedone. And he’d be perfectly happy with that. Jonsson, unlike most London chefs, actively eschews the idea of publicity for his restaurant, claiming to have toyed with appointing a PR to keep food critics away in the early months. This stands in stark contrast to just about every other restaurant, which is all too desperate to get as many bloggers, tweeters and influential voices in through the door in the early days of their operation. But Jonsson is defiantly his own man. Straight talking – he openly admits to having spent years sending back dishes that he was unimpressed by in top restaurants and explaining why – and dismissive of attempts to lump him in with ‘new Nordic cuisine’, he would pooh-pooh any attempt to describe him as one of the most exciting new chefs to emerge anywhere in the past few years.

However, because I have come here to praise him, not to bury him, I am going to do precisely that. Hedone is a complete contrast to most linen-tableclothed and formal dining rooms, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a wooden bar that looks into the small open-plan kitchen and comfortable wooden tables. It’s more like a branch of Le Pain Quotidien than the sort of place that tends to get foodies salivating desperately. This knowing unpretentiousness is part of Jonsson’s plan, as is the location down the less-travelled end of Chiswick High Road. Nobody would ever mistake him for someone who is attempting to get the world and his wife into his restaurant through self-promotion.

But come they have done, and Hedone finds itself full most nights. Jonsson is even going to have to begin turning tables in the modest 35-cover room, just to cater to demand. What people are going to eat remains something of a mystery until they get there, as Jonsson likes to use the freshest possible produce and is constantly refining and developing his menu to make sure that everything on it represents the highest possible quality. Of course, there are a few dishes that are already quite famous, and others that deserve to be. A starter of Cevennes onion with pear shavings is both sweet and simple, just as another dish of slow cooked hen egg with Scottish girolle mushrooms adds apricot jam, a curious but breathtakingly accomplished idea.

For me, the stand-out dish was steamed wild Dorset turbot, simply presented with cockles and cavolo nero. The turbot was breathtakingly tender and tasty, with the surface being iridiscent like mother of pearl. The previous best turbot I’d ever tried had been at the three Michelin-starred Le Bristol in Paris; this was superior. It was swiftly followed by breast of squab pigeon, with juniper-smoked potatoes and parsley and pistachio. Daringly, Jonsson not only serves this up complete with claw, but supplies a finger bowl so you can nibble on it daintily, something that has apparently caused consternation amidst the well-heeled of Chiswick, who probably didn’t expect to be presented with a pigeon claw when going out for a nice bite to eat.

A cheese course offers a small but well chosen selection of impeccable fromage, including a fine Gruyère Arpege from Switzerland and a delicious Bonde de Gâtine goat’s cheese from Poitou –Charentes, and desserts include a surprisingly light chocolate mousse creation, called the ‘Hedone chocolate bar’, and an English blueberry tart with Tahitian vanilla ice cream that my companion pronounced the best dessert she’d ever had. All the above were superbly matched by the expert sommelier, whose splendid sideburns should win an award in their own right, although Jonsson openly disagreed on his choice of a sweet Coteau du Layon to pair with the onions. (For the record, I thought it worked superbly.)

All of this is priced at far below what you might expect to pay in a competing establishment -£50 for four courses, and £70 for six courses – and the quality and ambition of the cooking represent excellent value for money. Jonsson openly describes the current state of Hedone as ‘the beta stage’ of what he eventually wants to achieve, and given the already extremely high accomplishment of his restaurant, the thought of this being surpassed over the coming years is both inspirational and rather frightening. I’m already looking forward to my next visit.

301 Chiswick High Road, W4.
www.hedonerestaurant.com

The Oldest Whisky in the World

Thursday, November 10th, 2011

Glenfiddich’s malt master’s hands are shaking, a look of love and fear flits across his face. If we were in a cartoon a bead of sweat would be rapidly forming on his brow. The reason? He’s pouring out a dram of one of the rarest whiskies in the world – and every drop of this light amber nectar is precious.

The whisky itself is splendid, it really is the drink of the gods and it seems they knew they were dealing with something very special; the cask was filled on New Year’s Eve 1955. My first impression of this 55-year-old dram was surprise. Despite its age it is an incredibly pale gold, the result of using a plain butt; a cask that has been filled two or three times before being entrusted with this, it’s final duty.

This lightness continues through the tasting. A quick swirl sets its aromas free – beautiful floral notes mixed with slight citrus are the first to play on the nose swiftly followed by a slight sweetness and smokiness. With anticipation building to breaking point we take our first sip. The flavours dance jubilantly on the tongue. Was that a hint of vanilla nestling among the sweet oak and slight smokiness? The excited hubbub gives way to awed silence as we take in quite how privileged we are to have tasted this whisky.

This remarkable liquid is being released in a very small bottling; just eleven are to be sold, to celebrate the 110th birthday of Janet Sheed Roberts (one for each decade of her life), the oldest living person in Scotland and granddaughter of the company’s founder William Grant.

The celebration of Janet Robert’s life continues in the design of this run. The beautiful leather box the whisky comes in is based around her travelling trunk and the bottle decorated with aquamarine – her favourite colour.

Attention to detail is the watchword here with the individuality and rarity of each bottle emphasised. The bottles are hand blown, hand numbered and come with an individual artwork inspired by Janet Robert’s graduation gown; she was also the first woman to graduate from Edinburgh Law School; a miniature of the whisky and a booklet detailing Janet’s life are also present.

The bottles are to go to auction individually with the proceeds to be donated to a selection of charities. The first of the eleven bottles will be at Bonham’s whisky sale in Edinburgh on December 14th with proceeds going to Water Aid, a charity dedicated to providing safe water for the world’s poorest families.

Whisky of this kind has become a hot investment opportunity. With some bottles adding as much as £10,000 to their value in just a decade. The unfortunate result of this trend is, however, that much of this whisky will never be enjoyed. Instead it will sit as a part of a large collection or accumulating value, a fate which, to me, seems a great pity.

This whisky, expected to sell for upwards of £30,000 per bottle is a fitting way to pay tribute to the extraordinary life of Janet Sheed Roberts.

www.glenfiddich.com

It’s Gin O’Clock

Thursday, November 3rd, 2011

Bonfire Night feels, to me at least, like the true beginning of winter. It is an evening for mulled wine, scarves and the smell of roasting chestnuts, a night to stave off the winter blues. The ‘ooohs’ and ‘aaahs’ that follow the explosion of the latest firework are sounds which massage the psyche, preparing it for the long nights to come.

Gin is the perfect accompaniment to this relaxation. One of its essential infusions, juniper berries, have been recognised for their soothing, restorative powers for centuries. As far back as the 11th century Italian monks were using an early relative of gin for it’s curative powers. These restorative properties came to England in the 1600s when soldiers fighting in the Eighty Years War noted the calming qualities of the spirit, a discovery that gave rise to the phrase ‘Dutch Courage’.

It seems fitting then that they should come together to create a perfect way to start your winter, and more specifically your Bonfire Night, with a bang. The Forge in Camden, is hosting a gin-making workshop where guests can learn the art of creating the perfect bottle of gin while enjoying canapés chosen to best compliment their tipple.

Lessons will be courtesy of Ian Hart of Sacred Spirits Company, a micro-distillery based in North London’s Highgate. Having already won numerous plaudits and awards for their remarkable gin and vodka, you can be sure that you’re learning from the best.

Guests will be shown how to create the perfect blend of fruit and spices for your gin. New flavours will also be on the agenda as the innovative distillers show you how to blend unconventional flavours such as nutmeg and frankincense; perfect for creating a modern spin on traditional gin that will see you through into Christmas.

This promises to be a real treat for gin lovers across the capital, so make sure you don’t miss out.

5th November, 2011
4:30pm – 6:30pm
Tickets are GBP 25

www.forgevenue.org

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