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More Than A Tea Party

Saturday, November 5th, 2011

In many respects, Boston is America’s most European city. Not for nothing is it situated in New England, that most verdant and gloriously pastoral of American states. Its sense of Old World comes from the fact that its streets are steeped in history, with countless legendary events taking place here. It should be noted for the British that we seldom come out of them very well, with the Boston Tea Party far less sedate and pleasant than the name implies. However, it’s still a glorious place to visit, whether you confine yourself to the upmarket streets of Beacon Hill, the more thriving central hub of the city proper, or if you nip across the river to the coffee shops and bookshops of the university campus, Cambridge.

If you’re looking to travel there on a long weekend’s city break, you’re spoilt for choice with places to stay. The Ames hotel in downtown Boston is a particularly fine option. From the Morgans group, who also have the Sanderson in London, it’s every bit as smart and chi-chi as you’d expect, with the stylishly minimalist rooms offering great views over the city, and it’s within easy reach of both the airport and the main shopping district. If you’re staying there you really have to try the Woodward restaurant for both breakfast and dinner – the Eggs Benedict with chorizo and smoked paprika hollandaise is literally to die for, while the evening offers such decadent delights as short rib tortellini and fresh Maine lobster roll. Along with the excellent Back Bay French restaurant L’Espalier, which offers the city’s premier fine dining experience, it’s an unmissable treat for any gourmand.

Boston is of course drenched in culture as well as heritage. The famous Isabelle Stewart Gardiner museum (soon to have a Renzo Piano-designed extension) is a fascinating look at a Boston grand dame’s house, kept exactly as she left it and studded with priceless works of art and artefacts. The nearby Museum of Fine Arts has also just been expanded and now has a new wing dealing with the Art of the Americas, giving it a grandiose feel akin to its cousin The Met. And if all this highbrow art-admiring gets a bit too much for you, the very cool Liberty Wharf area is stuffed with bars and restaurants, of which the aptly named Drink, which specialises in bespoke cocktails, is probably the best.

So, an unmissable destination. But how to get there? Well, we’d recommend flying Virgin Upper Class, which has to be one of the most pleasant ways to arrive at any destination. Not only do they pick you up from your home and take you through Heathrow via a specially dedicated private channel (meaning the whole process takes no more than a couple of minutes), you can use the Clubhouse to do anything from have a bite to eat and a drink pre-flight to having your hair cut at the special Bumble & Bumble salon. Not that it’s not similarly entertaining on board; if you’re lucky enough to have a dedicated mixologist on board the flight (we had the excellent Giles Looker from Soulshakers, who has done the cocktail lists for Meat Liquor and Whisky Mist), you can look forward to drinking some of the most excellent libations known to man thousands of feet above the Atlantic. Which, to be quite frank, is about the best way of arriving in Boston that we can imagine.

Virgin Atlantic fly daily to Boston from London Heathrow. Fares start at £256 + £301.73 tax. For reservations please call 0844 2092770 or visit www.virginatlantic.com

Swiss Serenity

Friday, November 4th, 2011

When Lewis Hamilton said he and his money were moving to Switzerland, “for the quality of life,” there were a few raised eyebrows and just one or two wry smiles. Let’s be honest, it isn’t exactly the first incentive which springs to mind.

So, with this prejudice guiding my opinion, my recent trip to Bern turned out to be a revelation. Whisked away from the airport in a slick Jaguar, I felt a strange sensation – calm. It’s something you forget living amidst the hustle and bustle of London, where everyone goes about their business in stony silence, hurrying their way through life as quickly as humanly possible.

It’s a sensation that pervades the whole of the UNESCO heritage site. Gone are the rude commuters and aggressive pedestrians. The city is blissfully serene, with cobbled streets and quaint little shops tucked under a covered walkway. This peacefulness is deceptive, fooling you into thinking you were in a provincial town rather than the capital of Switzerland. So just to remind you of where you truly are, there’s a bear park slap-bang in the middle of the city, where four furry examples of the city’s namesake reside.

It would be easy to think that Bern lacks a distinctive charm, but closer inspection reveals a latent sense of humour which is idiosyncratic of the city. Wander around the centre and you’ll find a colourful fountain depicting an ogre devouring some local children. Climb the Gothic Münster tower to discover a fantastic view of the Zeitglockenturm Clock Tower, with its rotating bears and squawking golden cockerel which flaps its wings on the hour. Bern is good-natured and charming, just like its residents.

During my stay at the Bellevue Palace Hotel, this pleasant feeling of calm continued. Located next to the Swiss parliament, the hotel is steeped in neoclassical grandeur, making it the undisputed choice for its neighbours’ esteemed guests. There’s an overwhelming sensation of refined elegance, which extended all the way up to my gorgeous suite with the most spectacular views overlooking the River Aare and the magical Historical Museum of Bern. Back downstairs, a walk through the sun-strewn atrium brings you La Terrasse, the hotel’s exquisite gourmet restaurant. Ipads are on hand for guests to watch a live web camera in the kitchens and send messages down to head chef Gregor Zimmermann and his team. It’s an innovative touch, which perfectly illustrates the Bellevue Palace’s synthesis of traditional appeal and modern facilities.

Continuing our travels, we moved on to Interlaken. Situated just an hour outside Bern, it’s the perfect destination for combining the great outdoors with a city break. Catching the train, we journeyed through valleys and alongside lakes, taking in the scenery and the mesmerising green blur of the pines as we escaped the city. Stepping off the train, the air was crisp and pure, welcoming you to this mountainous haven. Here, the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa sits between two beautiful lakes and at the foot of the eternally snowcapped Jungfrau, however, the main draw is its phenomenal spa, which provides the perfect compromise for those who want to enjoy the stunning views without leaving the comfort of the hotel. I indulged in an hour and a half of ESPA’s Authentic Swiss Alpine Herb Compress Massage, which soothes away tension through a combination of peppermint, nettles, lemon balm, thyme, marigold and mallow. It’s a treat for the senses, subconsciously reminding you that this alpine retreat is all about relaxation. It didn’t take long for all my tension to ebb away and as I enjoyed a light lunch in my bathrobe at the casual Spa Café, I felt completely regenerated.

As wonderful as the spa is, you’d be seriously missing out if you didn’t head out into the mountains for some exploring. Offering a range of adventure sports to suit all fitness levels, from mountain biking to white water rafting, there’s really no reason to stay indoors. We chose to hire e-bikes from Flying Wheels, electrically powered bicycles which have a variety of settings to help you up some of those more challenging hills. Following the Brienz river, we visited the picturesque Iseltwald fishing village as the sun was rising, giving the horizon a luminous and ethereal quality. It’s a truly beautiful setting, and the Chalet du Lac where we stopped adds a quintessentially Swiss feel, with its cosy, wooden interiors serving delicious hot chocolate. Quite frankly, I found it difficult to drag myself away from this idyllic spot, but the promise of waterfalls had me back on my e-bike, eying up the imminent onslaught of many a steep incline with steely determination.

The Muelibach Falls are hidden away, nestled between the trees in a location only accessible by foot, but I can assure you, it’s worth the effort, providing a truly stunning view. By the time we’d got back to the hotel, we’d built up quite an appetite, so the traditional Swiss cheese-fondant we enjoyed that evening was a delicious relief. To be quite honest though, we were spoilt for choice, as the hotel boasts three fabulous restaurants, each accompanied by a fantastic list of local wines. The Cuvée Madame Rosmarie Mathier was a particular favourite, and provides a perfect introduction to the wonderful world of Swiss wine. Spoilt, relaxed and well-fed, I slept deeply that night, surrounded by an aura of complete well-being. 3 nights in Switzerland and I had never felt better.

Perhaps we shouldn’t judge Lewis too harshly after all.

http://www.bern.com/en/

Thirty Six Is A Lucky Number

Wednesday, November 2nd, 2011

Duke’s Hotel, in the heart of Mayfair, is one of London’s most discreet and celebrated hotels, and famous for the superb martinis served in the bar. Famously, Ian Fleming was a habitué of the place, and it’s rumoured that the famous line ‘shaken, not stirred’ was an allusion to the way in which the drinks were made. Everything about it radiates a sort of unfussed excellence, a strong juxtaposition against the more glitz-soaked establishments of nearby Park Lane – a place, dare I say, where the attitudes on display have that unassuming Parisian aesthetic we all try hard to imitate (sometimes).

One further reason to frequent Duke’s is the arrival of an extremely classy new restaurant, Thirty Six. As the subtitle ‘by Nigel Mendham’ suggests, it is now home to the titular Michelin-starred chef, who attracted much acclaim for his previous stint at The Samling in Windermere. Mendham’s interests are very much in the traditionally British vein, where dishes don’t go in for fancy frills for the sake of it, but instead focus on combining interesting and delicious ingredients in often unexpected and interesting ways.

Typical of Mendham’s techniques is a starter of quail which combines braised leg, terrine forestiere and – wittily – a miniature fried (quail’s) egg. It’s delicate, makes its point almost immediately and impresses in a subtle, unfussy fashion. Perfectly matched with a glass of 2010 Viognier Tabali, it’s a compelling start to a meal that prizes delicacy above flash. Excellent turbot is matched with rib of beef, horseradish and a native oyster, a combination of a lot of ideas that shouldn’t work by rights but, rather wonderfully, coheres beautifully. Even a more conventional dish, such as salt marsh lamb with sticky ribs, braised shank and caramelised shallot, shows that there’s a very simple formula to this: if you have a chef who knows what he’s doing, and using top-notch produce, the results will be excellent.

In fact, the closest that the menu gets to a real surprise comes towards the end, when a conventional cheese course (although available) is replaced by a golden cross clafoutis. Many people associate the clafoutis with something sweet and fruity, but this is definitely savoury, light and a definite change of pace from what people would expect. Much, in fact, like the rest of Thirty Six, a place that surely will become one of Mayfair’s most popular haunts before too long.

St James’ Place, SW1. www.dukeshotel.com

No Trouble At The Mill

Tuesday, October 18th, 2011

Minster Lovell, in the heart of the Cotswolds, is the sort of place that people like to imagine represents England at its most idyllic. It’s a small village, mainly consisting of one picturesque street, which leads up to a ruined abbey. There are glorious walks roundabout through bucolic countryside, and there are quiet spots to sit in and contemplate the passing of the seasons. If you had to pick anywhere to represent a timeless English country location, here would be about as good a place to pick as any.

Another reason to visit is to stay at the main hotel in the village, The Old Swan and Minster Mill. It’s set around two distinct buildings, each with its own identity. The Old Swan, as the name suggests, is a cosily bijou inn, with the rooms above the downstairs pub striking a fine balance between luxury hotel comforts and more sedate charms. A typical room might have a ludicrously comfortable four poster bed, swish bathroom and little treats such as a miniature decanter of sloe gin. Minster Mill, by way of contrast, offers more modern rooms, but what some of them lose in old-fashioned cosiness they make up for with spectacular views over the grounds, which make for an excellent walk.

You’re almost certain to visit the Old Swan itself for dinner or lunch no matter where you’re staying, and it’s a delight to report that the food here is solidly authentic gastropub excellence. Starters of potted shrimp with aioli and Lyme bay scallops offer unflashy but delicious appetite-warmers, and main courses are of a conservative bent, such as fantastic sausages and mash and rack of Berkshire lamb. It’s also more than worth popping down for breakfast, which offers a solidly enjoyable range of all the victuals you’d expect from a traditional country inn. Those who are keen on the more relaxing things in life would be well advised to head to the Windrush Spa for a treatment; it’s also worth noting that 2012 is going to see several developments, including an entirely new spa complex and expanded dining room, both of which will enhance the experience even more.

The Old Swan and Mill, School Hill, Minster Lovell, OX29 0RN. www.oldswanandminstermill.com

Quintessentially travelled with First Great Western. For best fares and further details please see www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

Taymouth Castle

Tuesday, October 18th, 2011

Sweeping through the Scottish countryside it is easy to see why Queen Victoria fell in love with the Highlands after her visit to Perthshire’s Taymouth Castle. Stepping out of the car which whisked me through the sunshine to the grand entrance, there are few, if any, places I would rather find myself.

The reason Scotland’s weather is necessarily unsettled is clear; if the sun were to shine every day it would be, quite simply, unfair. You can keep the Riviera; I would rather be in a sunny Scotland any day.

Think of the Scottish Highlands and your mind probably leaps to surging rivers, huge lochs and challenging golf courses all set amid stunning countryside. Well, with Taymouth Castle you’d not be far off the mark, although you may not expect the spectacle afforded by the row of shining Porsches from the Porsche Club which were parked outside the front door.

Today’s castle was built in the nineteenth century on the site of a much older incarnation and was the home of the Campbell family. Visited by Queen Victoria on one of her first trips to Scotland in 1842 (the suite she stayed in can still be visited today) she was astonished by the preternatural beauty of the area and later bought nearby Balmoral as a personal residence.

The castle fell into disrepair with much of it at best a shell, and at worst in danger of collapsing entirely. Now, however, it is undergoing intensive work with the aim of restoring it to former glories and turning it into a luxury boutique hotel complete with luxury rooms, spa and, eventually, a Michelin-starred restaurant.

The restoration is a superb example of what can be achieved when historic buildings are treated sympathetically. The risk with this type of work is always that the buildings will feel like theme parks, with the character and originality sucked from them leaving an ill-judged pastiche. Thankfully this particular pitfall has been avoided. The rooms feel authentic, the atmosphere real.

The estate’s extensive grounds are also being given a makeover. The golf course which runs through the grounds to be extended and brought up to championship standard with the help of Scottish professional golfer Stephen Gallacher.

The major development on the estate is the building of luxury residences, which will offer owners their own piece of this Scottish idyll. There are plans for more than 100 bespoke residences located to ensure the grounds do not lose their essential character. With access to all the castle’s future facilities as well as a management service, it’s sure to be a great way to enjoy all that Scotland can offer.

For more info, please visit – www.taymouth-castle.com

A Land Of Dreams

Tuesday, October 4th, 2011

Of all of Morocco’s major cities, the least predictable is Marrakech. It’s a combination of the hectic and the tranquil, the brash and the delicate, and the aggressive and the retiring. This split personality even extends to the geography of the city, which is a mixture of the old and new almost exactly – the medieval Medina, complete with souks and winding streets could not be a greater contrast with the so-called ‘French quarter’, which offers modern buildings and busy roads. The effect of arriving in Marrakech is simultaneously exhilarating, bracing and disorientating. The pace of life is as hectic as in any Western city, but in an entirely different register. Far from being ignored, visitors are treated as objects of enormous curiosity, whether to be welcomed, sold to, begged from or welcomed into the family.

The other thing about Marrakech that has become clear over the past few years is the rise and rise of the luxury travel market. With several airlines now flying here, it’s an easy spot for a weekend break.  Additionally, there are now numerous hotels that cater to the sybarite’s every need, offering everything from a completely Westernised experience of luxury to something altogether more authentic, if no less comfortable. One of the leading lights in the latter sphere is the uber-stylish Royal Mansour Hotel, situated a short distance from the main square, Djeema el-Fna, as well as the other highlights.

The vibe in the hotel is a synthesis between classic Moroccan chic, complete with stunningly painted and designed ceilings, traditional architecture and fountains, and something more contemporary. This is perhaps best expressed in the spa, which has one of the city’s most acclaimed hammams within it. Likewise, the restaurants here are considered to be some of the finest in Morocco, offering entirely different experiences whichever of the three – Moroccan, Mediterranean and French – you decide to head to.

If you decide to opt for La Grand Table Francaise, you’re in for a treat. Described by some as the finest French restaurant in Africa, it’s under the careful tutelage of three Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alleno, famous for his cuisine at Le Meurice in Paris. Unlike some places in Marrakech, which seek to offer French dishes with a Middle Eastern twist, the cooking here is both straightforwardly Gallic, and utterly excellent. The menu is short, but everything on it is cooked to perfection, whether it’s a starter of rich, sumptuous duck foie gras, main courses of tender veal or succulent sea bass, or decadent desserts using the freshest fruit available. The wine list is intelligently divided between surprisingly good (and very underrated) Moroccan wines, and French offerings for those who prefer to cleave a little closer to convention. A glass of 2000 Billecart Salmon to begin with was a particular joy.

Whatever your own path of travel, there can be little doubt that Marrakech offers just about every option under the (blazingly hot) sun. The Royal Mansour, in all its opulence and luxury, is about as sophisticated a means of assessing all the options as can be found in the city at the moment, and seems likely to remain one of the key destinations in the country for the foreseeable future.

Royal Mansour Hotel, Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti, Marrakech. www.royalmansour.com

Heathrow Express is the fastest, most frequent way to travel between Heathrow Airport and Central London. Trains depart every 15 minutes from London’s Paddington station with a journey time starting at just 15 minutes to get to Heathrow Terminals 1 & 3 and a further 6 minutes to Terminal 5. Journeys to Terminal 4 take 25 minutes. Tickets start online from £16.50. Special offers and discounts can be found online at http://www.heathrowexpress.com/

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