QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | City Guides

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Delhi is a city that has long been a seat of power for the good, bad and very ugly rulers of India. Legend states that whoever creates a new city at Delhi will inevitably lose it. True to word, empires have come and gone but the city has endured. It is an elusive and mysterious animal even to its own residents – there is always something to be discovered. You wouldn’t expect anything less than a sensual assault. It is a sprawling city of charming and complicated contrasts in the throes of an economic boom. Delhi can charm and daunt in equal measure – a maelstrom of extremes where poverty, affluence, tradition and modernity live side by side.
Delhi is multi-layered city; the modern day capital is the site of several royal cities (eight to be exact). Most visitors come here as part of a grand tour of the ‘Golden Triangle’: Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, the other princely cities of North India. The city’s imperial heritage has carved much of its current day geography: British New Delhi and Mughal Old Delhi. New Delhi occupies much of the central part of the city. Commissioned by the British and designed by Edwardian architect Lutyens, the tree-lined promenades, quietly majestic bungalows and grand monuments dedicated to Britannia bear testament to a careful aesthetic vision.
To the north, Shahjahanabad (or Old Delhi) was built around the mid-17th century by Emperor Shah Jahan who moved his capital from Agra to Delhi. Crumbling Mughal palazzos, bustling alleyways, antique thrift shops and impromptu food stalls all inspire this area’s decaying beauty. The ruined remains of Delhi’s other cities surface mainly towards the extreme south of the city such as Jahanpanah and Tughluqabad.
Meanwhile, the city bulges each year as it plays host to new suburbs and burgeoning construction. As the capital of the fastest growing economy in the world, Delhi is in a constant state of transformation. Gurgaon, the business centre of Delhi on the western outskirts heaves with multinational firms and high-rise construction. Noida is where middle class and foreign educated Delhi-folk indulge their fascination for malls and branded goods. Yet for all its faces, one visit to this impressive city will be one you’ll never forget.


GO THERE FOR

The History – The city sighs with history, Delhi dates back to 1450 BC and its past is seen dotted all over the city in the unlikeliest of places: 15th century stone gazebos on golf-courses, tombs on roundabouts and shrines of saints and poets opposite garden centres. Delhi is an archaeological extravaganza. With three UNESCO World Heritage Sites – the Qutb Minar, the Red Fort, Humayun's Tomb and Asia’s largest mosque complex built in the 17th century – you are spoiled for choice.

The Location - As a mass transit hub, you can explore most of India from Delhi. Delhi is the perfect base for day trips to popular destinations – Taj Mahal in Agra is four hours by car or train. With the growth of low-cost domestic flights, far-flung cities are now accessible and journeys to popular destinations shorter. Previously a five-hour journey, Jaipur is now only 40 minutes away by air. Of course, Delhi’s pinpoint reliable and character-clad trains are an experience to be savoured. A step up would be to tour the princely state of Rajasthan on the Palace on Wheels, India’s version of the Orient Express. Alternatively, experience a taste of the British Raj and hop up to the mountain town of Shimla where the English holidayed to escape Delhi’s scorching summers. The ‘toy train’ to Shimla offers some spectacular mountain views.

The Food - Food has been coded into the DNA of the city. You can explore all the regional diversities of Indian food from Bengali to Tamil in Delhi. Most of the city’s renowned eateries are to be found in five-star hotels or its affluent residential enclaves. You can also explore the top-notch international cuisine in some of Delhi’s slick new restaurants where everything from Italian to Japanese and Pan-Asian are on the menu.


DON’T MISS

Old Delhi - Old Delhi or Shahjahanabad was once capital of Mughal India but now dilapidated mansions of historical nobles lay vacant amongst the hustle and bustle. Its souk-like atmosphere beguiles, amuses and surprises in equal amounts and not necessarily in that order. Visit the colossal Jama Masjid or the spell-binding Red Fort.

Mausoleums - Delhi is dotted with the tombs and the necropolises of emperors, their relations and that of minor nobles and saints and often in the most odd places imaginable. For the most part, the major ones to visit are located in beautiful complexes and often serve the best examples of Mughal art and architecture. Don't miss Humayun's Tomb - a wonder built in red sandstone.


BASICS

Quintessentially India
578, Udyog Vihar, Phase 5, Gurgaon 122002, India
Telephone: +91 124 423 8000
Email: qindia@quintessentially.com

Country Code: +91
City Code: 11
Emergency Services: 100-police/ 101-fire and ambulance
Electricity: 230V/ European two-pin
Official Languages: English, Hindi, Urdu and Punjabi
Currency: Indian rupee (INR)
Exchange Rate: GBP 1 = INR 72.03, 1 INR = 0.01 GBP (Subject to change)
Time: IST (UTC + 5:30)
Indira Gandhi International Airport
General Enquiries: + 91 124 3376000
www.newdelhiairport.in


WHEN TO GO

India is a sub-continent and so the climate varies from north to south. Most tourists visit India between October and February. Northern India, in general, experiences a pleasant climate during these months. It’s worth noting that in peak winter (December and January), Delhi and the cities of Rajasthan can become surprisingly cold, often freezing at night – so do take your winter clothes.

Public Holidays:
26th January – Republic Day
30th January – Martyrs’ Day
Variable – Holi
Variable – Rama Navami
Variable – Good Friday
Variable – Mahavir Jayanti
Variable – Buddha Purnima
15th August – Independence Day
Variable – Krishna Janmashtami
Variable – Eid ul-Fitr
Variable - Navaratri
2nd October – Mahatma Gandhi’s Birthday
Variable – Diwali
Variable – Guru Nanak Jayanti
Variable – Eid al-Adha
25th December – Christmas Day
Variable – Day of Ashura


GETTING AROUND

Around Town…
Metro
Delhi’s highly efficient underground rail system has made life easier for many a tourist. It’s perfect to use for sightseeing trips. The Yellow Line is great for travelling to Old Delhi.
Taxis
Taxis can be found in most places in New Delhi; you can hail them from a taxi stand or the street.
Autorickshaw
The autorickshaw is the most convenient option in Delhi. Do take them if you’re travelling in a group of three or less. You can hail these three-wheeled scooters from anywhere. Unlike other modes of transportation, they are highly adept at escaping Delhi’s traffic. On the downside, they are slower than taxis and semi-closed so you are exposed to the dirt and noise of Delhi’s streets.


WHERE TO STAY

The Imperial
(Quintessentially Reserve's Choice)
Janpath
This Art Deco hotel in central Delhi is a favourite with the reams of Hollywood A-listers and corporate jet-setters who have passed through the doors of this ‘30s era property. The marble, teak and mahogany interior fits in with the antique spirit of the hotel and a private art collection adorns the long corridors. Rooms and suites are kitted out with Fragonard products and Porthault linen while other rooms have Bang and Olufsen TVs. The service is careful but not intrusive. While there is a great pool, a mammoth Six Senses spa is in the pipeline and will be launching soon. Don’t miss Sunday lunch on the terrace at this hotel.

The Claridges
12 Aurangzeb Road
Situated in one of New Delhi’s most beautiful residential areas, The Claridges is an intimate alternative to a big brash hotel. The spacious rooms are quietly furnished (lots of taupe and crème). The quasi-Art Deco flavour may become a little spiritless but the fresh atmosphere amply compensates.

The Park
15 Parliament Street
This Terence Conran designed hotel is a vibrant minimalist venture; it is a ‘design hotel’. Hot pink furnishings, nacreous curtains of beaded glass, chairs by design house Palluco Italia inspire the luxury boutique atmosphere – and that’s just the lobby. Upstairs, dark timber floors offset the saffron-hued cushions while sculpted tables and contemporary Indian art achieve that sought after polished look.

The Manor
77 Friends Colony West
Based in the gated affluent enclave of Friends Colony, most travellers are unaware of this delightful hotel south of the city. It may be a little out of the way for the conventional tourist but those seeking an urban oasis should head to the Manor. Only 16 rooms, this charming boutique hotel offers both helpful luxury (laptops on demand) and unexpected luxury (24-hour room service for a small hotel). Take lunch in the manicured lawns and listen carefully to the sound of blissful peace.

Tikli Bottom
Manendar Farm, Gurgaon
Just outside Delhi lies a hotel – an Anglo-Indian fantasy worthy of EM Forster. The name inspires a giggle but it’s a technically accurate way to describe this pink Lutyenesque property in the Aravalli Hills. This four-bedroom country house is at the bottom of a village called Tikli. Run by a charming English couple, you can expect the highest standards of efficiency and comfort. Even the hardened urbanite will be charmed by quicksand-soft beds and elegant decor. They can organise dawn bird watching, golf on the local championship links course or an insight into local history. It is the perfect introduction or conclusion to a visit to India.


WHERE TO EAT

Karim
Jama Masjid, Gali Kababian
For a truly authentic taste of Mughal gastronomy, head to Old Delhi and the multi- award winning Karim, a secret alleyway restaurant whose proprietors are directly descended from a Mughal chef who cooked for the royal court.

Bukhara
Hotel Maurya Sheraton & Towers, Sadar Patel Marg
This is Indo-Pakistani haute cuisine at its best. It is no hype either. Restaurant Magazine has pronounced it ‘finest in Asia’. Bill Clinton on a visit here said he wished ‘he had two stomachs’. With Chef JP Singh’s meat-heavy menu, this establishment is a carnivore’s fantasy.

The Spice Route
The Imperial Hotel, Janpath
This glittering establishment pulls out all the stops to impress. Inside, décor is inspired largely by Buddhist architecture. You’ll find a dazzling array of cuisines from across Southeast Asia.

Chor Bizarre
4/15A, Asaf Ali Khan Road
Enter this Aladdin’s cave and you’ll find a gallery of mishmash objects such as grandfather clocks and broken bangles. A 1927 Vintage Fiat holds the lunch and dinner buffet and surprisingly it all works. However, the food is anything but bizarre and specialises particularly in Kashmiri cuisine. Don’t miss the restaurant’s signature dish of succulent pieces of masala chicken flamed with brandy.

Swagath
14, Defence Colony Market
Where there are South Indians, their beloved staple of seafood is not far behind. It’s lucky they decided to open a restaurant in the city otherwise Delhi would be found wanting in the fish stakes. Choose from a wide array of seafood from their famed Bombay duck to lobster cooked in a Mangalorean spiced coconut gravy.

The Big Chill
Khan Market, Sujan Singh Park
If you find yourself bored of native cuisine, head to The Big Chill. Big bowls of hearty pasta, burgers and chips and a whole range of mouth-watering dishes are at your disposal. Don’t even think of missing their famed desserts.

Threesixty°
The Oberoi Hotel, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg
This high-profile dining spot at the Oberoi offers well-prepared Japanese, Indian and Mediterranean food. Diners can watch chefs indulge in culinary pyrotechnics on the huge Yakitori grill and Indian and Mediterranean ovens. Try the feted sushi and sashimi. The restaurant’s cellar is one of the best in India and offers an extensive wine list. Apart from visiting hotel guests, this restaurant attracts an eclectic mix of patrons from models to politicians.

Khan Chacha’s
Khan Market, Sujan Singh Park
Where would Delhi be without this award-winning street-side institution? After one bite of their famous chicken and lamb kebab rolls, you’ll scoff yourself silly at Khan Chacha’s (translates as Uncle Khan). Based in the upscale shopping area of Khan Market, this establishment has inspired returning patrons to muse on the secrets behind the cooking. Of course, no one’s cracked it and the exact combination of ingredients remains a well-guarded secret.


BARS, PUBS AND NIGHTLIFE

Baci Bar
Sunder Nagar, Mathura Road
When the sun sets, this slick two-storey Italian restaurant transforms into a hip bar-cum-nightclub. The half-Italian and half-Indian owner Aftab Pauro knows how to throw a great party. It is a popular haunt of Delhi’s hip socialites, fashion glitterati and expatriate set. Thursday nights are the best time to drop in.

Patiala Peg
The Imperial, Janpath
This grand watering-hole at the Imperial Hotel could be a gentleman’s club on London’s Pall Mall – panelled in wood and plenty of crystal decanters. The staff dress in a regal Indian uniform and offer unrivalled service. It has a wide selection of whiskies and other spirits – perfect for a late nightcap.

Aura
The Claridges, 10 Aurangzeb Road
Based in The Claridges hotel, Aura is a fashionable lounge bar perfect for an aperitif or a postprandial visit. If you’re a vodka enthusiast, do come here as they offer over 60 varieties of vodka brands and spirits. With low-level seating, translucent lighting and mounted LCD screens that show models strutting down catwalks, this isn’t a place for wallflowers. Unsurprisingly, the bar attracts Delhi’s designer-clad elite and cosmopolitan tourists. Go on the weekends.

Elevate
Centre Stage Mall, Sixth Floor, L1, Sector 18, Noida
A relative newcomer to Delhi’s burgeoning club scene, Elevate is split onto four floors and the club hasn’t held back on decoration. The VIP section features Swarovski chandeliers, crystals panels and bejewelled furniture. With a flawless sound system and fantastic acoustics, the club flies international DJs, artists and renowned home-grown acts to Delhi on the weekends to take advantage of the state-of-the-art technology.

Tabula Rasa
4th Floor, Square One Designer Arcade, C-2, Saket
Tabula Rasa is restaurant-bar renowned for its fantastic cocktails, exhaustive wine list and eclectic modern European and Asian cuisine. They regularly arrange themed functions from fashion evenings to martini nights. Twice-a-month, renowned Delhi DJ outfit Dada Music organise electronic nights at this venue. With a lush décor featuring a petal-strewn shallow pool, sheer curtains and low-lit flickering candles, the restaurant has comfort in mind for its patrons. It’s no wonder you’ll find Delhi’s beautiful people dancing here until the early hours of the morning.


WHERE TO SHOP

Santushti Shopping Complex
Chanakyapuri
If you think this is some spiritless steel and glass mall, think again. Located in the diplomatic enclave of Chanakyapuri, shopping couldn’t be more pleasant than Santushti, a cluster of smart boutiques selling gorgeous fabrics, fine pashminas and exquisite home furnishings. Pick up a piece or two from here and you’ll be the envy of your friends at home.

Hauz Khas Village
Hauz Khas
This utterly charming location in South Delhi dates back to the late 13th century during the second city of medieval Delhi, Siri. The beautiful artificial lake forms the backdrop to this area. Nowadays, the village contains some wonderful furnishings and antiques shops, cafés and upmarket boutiques.

Khan Market
Sujan Singh Park
A favourite with embassy wives and the growing expatriate community, this upmarket area contains boutiques, bookshops, cafés, restaurants and supermarkets with international food brands. It has most things that you’re missing from home.

Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi
Laid out in 1648 and known as the ‘moonlit square’, this was Shahjahanabad’s smartest thoroughfare that catered to the expensive whims of the nearby palace court. It is now a bustling boulevard-cum-souk `with an array of bazaars, specialist shops and joking ‘foodwallahs’ at every corner.

Chanel
The Imperial, Janpath
If you need something chic for a Delhi evening, then India’s only Chanel boutique is the place to go.

Louis Vuitton
The Oberoi, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg
Accessories, shoes and other luxury items, the wares of Mr Vuitton are available for your plucking at the Oberoi Hotel.

Fab India
Khan Market
A popular shopping destination for Indians and international visitors, Fab India offers stylish Indian tunics for men and women, delicately crafted shawls, organic food and body care products. The company sources most of their items from village artisans around India.


HEALTH & BEAUTY

Tejas Spa
1 Mansingh Road
For relief from the Delhi heat and smog, experience Ayurvedic massages using a range of tried and tested ancient techniques.

The Spa at Aman New Delhi
Lodhi Road
This spa offers early morning yoga sessions in the atmospheric surrounds of 15th century Lodhi and Sayyid tombs.

Svelte Luxury Spa & Gym
East of Kailash, 18, Sant Nagar Main Road
This luxury spa and gym offers a wide variety of professional services that are designed to encourage the renewal of mind, body and spirit – this is an ideal place for anyone, old or young, to feel revitalised and rejuvenated.


WHAT TO SEE

Royal Delhi
For a taste of Royal Delhi, start off with a visit to the Red Fort, the ochre-hued palace fortress built by Emperor Shah Jahan in Old Delhi. Head back south and see Humayun’s Tomb where Shah Jahan’s ancestor has been laid to rest. Don’t miss Lodi Gardens, this beautifully kept park is strewn with the tombs of the Sayid and Lodi dynasty. Stop off at the Jantar Mantar, an early 18th century observatory built by a maharaja of Jaipur. Meanwhile, New Delhi offers some Vatican-like views and magnificent buildings built by the British. The presidential palace or Rashtrapati Bhavan was once the residence of Lord Mountbatten, the last British viceroy of India before India’s independence. To the south of the city lies the Qutb Minar complex which features a 73m victory tower erected by one of the first Muslim rulers of Delhi. It has some notable early Indo-Afghan architecture.

Religious Delhi
Faith plays a huge role in the lives of people in India. Unsurprisingly, Delhi is in abundant supply of temples, mosques and shrines. Head to the 17th century Jama Masjid mosque in Old Delhi -Emperor Shah Jahan’s fantasy in red sandstone. To the south, set among gardens and pools, the lotus-shaped Bahai Temple is a sight to behold – especially at sunset. Head back to town and pay a visit to Nizam-ud-din’s Shrine, a Sufi Muslim saint who lived between the 13th and 14th century. On Thursday evenings, there is a fascinating musical or qawaali evening in honour of the saint.

Art/Culture
Delhi is well-equipped to handle lovers of art and culture. For fans of Indian classical music and dance, check what’s going on at the India International Centre or the India Habitat Centre. The city prides itself on its rich artistic heritage and has plenty to offer a tourist. With over 200,000 works of art, the National Museum in Delhi is the largest in India – predominantly covering 5,000 years of India’s history including jewellery and Indian miniature paintings. Alternatively, if you’re looking for Indian contemporary art, head to the National Gallery of Modern Art – a converted palace that once belonged to Maharajah of Jaipur.