QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | Food & Drink

In Rajasthan, on the fringes of the Ranthambore National Park – set against the sublime backdrop of the Aravali hills – lies the serene wilderness camp of Aman-i Khás. Infamous for sightings of the near-extinct grand feline, the Bengal Tiger, Aman-i Khás offers guests an authentic Indian wilderness experience with the creature comforts of a premier 5 star hotel.

What better way to rejuvenate the senses and reinvigorate your lust for adventure than to wake up on a crisp morning, delighting in the wilderness that rests just outside the door of your luxury tent. With approximately 400 square kilometers of surrounding parkland, it’s home to some of the most dramatic landscape and extraordinary animal life on earth.

Ranthambhore is one of those rare places that can not help but reminds us of our roots, our position in the ecosystem, and most importantly – why we need to continue respecting and preserving these places of unimaginable beauty.

Aman-i Khás translates to “special peace” and to help achieve just that, the resort offers post-safari healing massages and a variety of yoga classes practiced outdoors, opposite a small lake underneath a canopy of trees. Tranquility radiates through the camp as evening arrives and guests are served dinner under the stars. The cuisine ranges from the finest Indian to a range of Western dishes, with the majority of the vegetables and herbs grown in the camp’s own organic garden. After dinner, it’s coffee or nightcap near the roaring outdoor fire; eavesdropping on the nocturnal calls of the wild.

Guests of Aman-i Khás are not only encouraged to experience prize predators at close proximity on guided safari excursions – there are a number of planned outings to experience life outside the camp. So whether you choose to delve headfirst into the culture and traditions of Rajasthanian culture by visiting the region’s forts or colourful rural villages; you can also visit shops and perfumeries located in the Old City.

Aman-i Khás
Ranthambhore
Rajasthan
India

Tel: + (91) 7462 252 052

Email:

aman-i-khas@amanresorts.com

Website: www.amanresorts.com

Open since February, Cielo serves modern Italian food in the kind of place that might be personified by a man wearing a sharp blue suit and a penchant for surrealist portrait painting. A cutting edge dining place with combined art gallery and nightclub, this select Mayfair venue offers a truly unique evening out.

We arrived at 8pm to a quiet setting; not wholly convinced we were in the right place, we were led through the dimly lit art gallery/entrance, gold restaurant/bar area and up to an enchanting mezzanine. The maître d’ assured us that the rush usually started at around 10pm. Eyebrows raised, I looked up and drank in the verve through the glass ceiling, and then pondered the quietly flickering flame around about. I’d have to wait and see about the influx, but just then, I was tempted by the house specialty aperitif – a heady mix of apple liquor with cloudy apple, elderflower and Moët & Chandon that was too sweet for me, but a hit with most others.

From this vantage point we could see a few other groups joining the party. The dining space does not sit many guests so when people start to arrive, the amp is turned up pretty high, and crescendos in a wave of chatter and laughter. We were taken to the table at our leisure and throughout the evening the service was attentive and informative as well as friendly and welcoming. Italian hospitality is not lost in Cielo’s modern attitude, and each guest is greeted like an old friend, so much so that the atmosphere is that of an extended family reunion. The drinks menu is varied, focussing on cocktail bar style drinks, as well as a limited Italian wine list.

The tuna fillet starter was executed well, the seared fish accompanied by a refreshing combination of fennel, celery and oranges, and the southern Italian flavours and textures came together well and balanced the dish. The pasta Sofia was the better of the pasta dishes – an asparagus cannelloni stuffed with ricotta and served with prawns. The plate jumped out with its colouring and layout, the type you wish you ordered when you see a waiter whisk past with one. The green cannelloni was bursting with cheese and the grilled prawns proudly sat to the side. The apple tart was recommended by our waiter for dessert and it did not disappoint; light puff pastry with a warm apple filling, apple drizzle and a creamy dose of vanilla ice cream. My sweet tooth comes and goes, but any combination of warm apple, sugar, pastry and vanilla is guaranteed to satisfy me, from Viennese apple strudel to American apple pie.

We finished the meal with a quality espresso and smooth amaretto. By this time, the party was really going and the club downstairs, Luxx, had opened. Diners were finishing their digestifs and heading downstairs for more. Had the following morning not called for an early rise, we would have been right behind them, absorbed in the celebratory atmosphere. Cielo is the place to go when you want to sit back and eat some good food, stir some fine cocktails and indulge your friends with a few wanton anecdotes. Its friendly, the service is spot on, and what’s most important, you look good sitting there as the party starts to roll.

3 New Burlington St,
London W1S

Le Cercle brings the best of Club Gascon’s French cooking to West London at a prime location just off Sloane Square. Set underground, Le Cercle manages to create a surprisingly airy, open plan dinning space that still achieves understated intimacy. The monthly wine pairing menu caught my eye and I had to experience an evening here for myself.

This month, the tasting compares two estates from the Gaillac district in South West France. It was Domaine Rotier vs. Domaine Causse Marines – two producers with contrasting views on winemaking. I’ve been informed that one uses only natural elements in the vineyards to develop and heighten the flavours (whilst the grape is still on the vine) whilst the other experiments in the cellar. It must be said, whatever the technique, both created exceptional vintages.

We commenced the evening with a well blended dirty martini whetting my appetite for the meal to come. The menu at Le Cercle was created to educate guests on Galliac wines meanwhile enjoying brilliantly matched cuisine. We start with a superb crab bisque topped with verbena Chantilly cream; wondrously light, a theme that would run throughout the meal. A slight change of direction on the second course: cured organic salmon, celery sorbet and cress. Undeniably the standout dish of the evening, the fish was as fresh as you can find anywhere in London while the sorbet just captured the celery; the cress was tucked away inside the salmon as not to overwhelm. It was served on a bed of delicate fennel with a dash of beetroot ketchup. The dish was served with my favourite of the two whites, the Domaine Rotier, Renaissance Blanc 2008.

Shredded leg of lamb on a bed of warm aubergine caviar and liquorice for our main course. The lamb was tender and the liquorice subtle, making its presence noted in the sauce, a lamb jus infused with Chinese five-spice. My preference of the reds was served at this point, the Domaine Causse Marines, Les Peyrouzelle 2008. The cheese course showcased a fine slice of Ossau Iraty and the dessert, listed as White Chocolate Delight, was an unimaginably victorious white chocolate foam which evaporated in the mouth. The Delight was accompanied by summer berries and a divine Domaine Causse Marines dessert wine.

My guest and I departed with new found knowledge on the previously unfamiliar Galliac wines, satisfied appetites and approving taste buds. Le Cercle runs a wine tasting dinner service the last Tuesday of the month focusing on a different wine producing region.

Le Cercle
1 Wilbraham Place
London
SW1X 9AE

Tel: 020 7901 9999

Opening Times
Lunch – 12:00 noon until 3.00 pm Tue – Sat
Dinner – 6:00 pm until 11:00 pm, Tue – Sat

Neil Wager, Executive Chef of North Island in the Indian Ocean, Seychelles, claims he has the best chef job in the world. With 20 years of experience working in 6 out of 7 continents, in some of the top kitchens around the globe, he recently returned to paradise.

“I feel I’ve come home. As soon as I stepped off the boat, I knew I had come back to where I should be cooking and creating. Since my departure to the UK in 2008, I became more involved in the business side of the culinary world and I can’t say enough how delighted I am to be back in the kitchen.

The most amazing thing about North Island is the tranquility it brings out of you and the way it gently suggests you use what you find around you in your cooking. I’ve been building a repertoire of ideas and experiences, like opening a Pintxo bar and thinking on my feet what dishes to make out of the abundance of fresh local ingredients.

The purity of the sea here is unique to this region, which has inspired us to create our own sea salts that we use for flavouring in the cooking process. We smoke our own fish and use vegetables from our garden; the chefs here nurture and care for their produce every day. We consider Creole history and utilise spicy island ingredients – of course that includes any number of chills varieties!

In line with our Island’s ethos of a refined experience balanced with nature, I am looking to reflect this philosophy by balancing the natural gifts of sea, land, flora, smell, beauty and calmness with hints of fusion.

We want guests to leave North Island with the memory of walking with either myself or Vincent (our gardener), discovering the true beauty of what nature has so generously provided. Join us as we walk to West Beach and pick Indian Mulberries; grab a Natchi from the tree and eat as we walk and discuss your culinary interests, likes and dislikes.

Our ‘any menu, any venue, any time’ concept is progressing to the next level of development. I sit and engage with the guests to draw upon their individual preferences, incorporating them into each dish. This is a unique concept in food preparation and we hope North Island will set the precedent for this type of culinary experience, inspiring the rest of the world.

We aim to achieve the highest standards and quality equal to those of internationally acclaimed restaurants. My aim is not only to be the best kitchen in the Seychelles, but recognised globally for our Island food philosophy.

We are in the conservation business and the Island is a gift to us all. We make every effort to minimise our energy use in the kitchen, reducing our carbon footprint by utilising all we have here – this means relying on few non-indigenous ingredients as possible. Not only can we feel good about we do as far as sustainability – it pushes us to test the boundaries of creativity in our cooking.”

(Another Chef comes in and whispers something to Chef Neil)

“Apologies, I hope you will excuse me! I’ve just been asked to head back to the garden and pick some fruits for a special honeymoon couple. Lots of passion fruit!”

North Island recently introduced a Chef Exchange program bringing in chefs from Melbourne Australia, London, St. Lucia, Spain, Tokyo Japan and Argentina, to name a few.

PO Box 1176
Victoria, Mahé, Seychelles

Telephone: +248 293 100
Facsimile: +248 293 150

email: info@north-island.com
http://www.north-island.com/

Hidden away in the Himalayas at over 8,000 feet, Leti 360°, India is strictly for those looking to get away from it all. It takes a good hour’s walk from the closest town to get there, a minimum three-night stay applies, and forget about mobile phone reception and internet; but if you’re in need a total escape, there’s no better place to turn off your Blackberry and get closer to the real India.

The ultimate retreat, quite literally on top of the world, Leti boasts four cottages made from locally sourced materials; a blend of colonial-luxury-modern with brass fittings and solid teak furniture. In the evenings, you’re free to relax in your own sit-out complete with an open bonfire, or snuggle up inside. The bedrooms have sheer glass walls which mean you needn’t get out of bed to take in the all-inspiring views.

In October and November, the wild cherry trees blossom, bringing the mountains to life. Visit in March through May, however, and experience an entirely different side of the country as the rhododendrons bloom, painting the mountains with splashes of colour.

Given the exclusive nature of the camp, it often seems like you have the Himalayas all to yourself. No matter if you decide to explore the mountains, nearby villages and temples, fish, picnic and hike the days away; there’s plenty to do for the active and equally for the not so active. Yoga and meditation are also on offer, and if you don’t attain a state of enlightenment with the Himalayas as your backdrop, there’s a good chance you never will!

All meals and beverages are included, with the friendly local chefs serving sumptuous pan-Asian cuisine alongside a good variety of wines. You most certainly won’t leave hungry.

And after dinner every night, what better way to wile away the moonlit hours than by snuggling up with a loved one in your lovely cottage living room high above the world.

Three nights, four days from USD 1,825 per adult based on two people sharing a private cottage on a fully inclusive basis (travel within Kumaon only so you’ll need to add flights).

The Landmark, London, is a regal, provocative, architecturally beautiful abode that many Londoners (like myself) walk past, and mistakenly, keep on walking. A great mistake – great because such a gorgeous hotel, with such fabulous restaurants, that pays such close attention to ones health and wellbeing, is not easy to come by.

This illusive Marylebone retreat was once a less plush affair, housing 19th century offices for British Rail staff. Many years later, the internal courtyard was glassed over, and it became something new altogether. Beneath the shimmering glass – a stunning central feature – afternoon tea is taken by the Landmark faithful, quick to catch on, to stay on and enjoy pre-dinner drinks in the tranquil yet elegant confines that this five star hotel affords.

I was given a gorgeous suite for a night which, despite being on the bustling Marylebone Road, was a silent and sumptuous place of rest. The room ticked every box you need worry about: the bed was blissful, the bath almost swimming pool in size and the linens felt like cashmere and probably were.

Dinner was enjoyed in the unassuming nonchalance of restaurant Two Twenty Two (The Winter Garden is for those who want to dress up a notch or two). Wood-beamed and lit with hypnotic, jellyfish-shaped chandeliers, this hip little hangout is loved by guests, and those knowing locals who breeze in with a burgeoning need for good wholesome food. The beef Carpaccio with rocket and freshly shaved Parmesan had the makings of an iconic dish, sharing its beat with black truffle oil. The Thai green curry with jasmine sticky rice was as good as anything I’ve had in Thailand, with just as much spice and a dash more savoir-faire. The restaurant is fringed with one of those sleek, very tempting bars, so once the foods done, you might want to get lost here for the rest of the evening.

If you want a change of scenery without a change of venue, head to the upstairs Mirror Bar, a small but intimate cocktail lounge run by someone with an encyclopedic knowledge of all things alcoholic. I had a perfect Mojito and then something that, though carefully, even beautifully concocted, was so strong I just couldn’t really do anything by it.

This heady combination, and that lissome bottle of 2006 Stonemason Shiraz I sloshed at dinner left the next morning a little blurry, and so my trip to the Landmark spa couldn’t have been better timed. Stocking the organic and utterly heavenly range of Voya products, the Anti-Ageing Reviver facial and Seaweed Oil massage will revive even the most fragile of figures. There’s a very fresh pool, and the peaceful treatment rooms, and the complete isolation from the rest of the world makes it just the sort of place to spend the whole day.

I left the Landmark London feeling pampered inside and out. It was a little odd as a London resident, stepping out from an unfamiliar palace of bliss onto the ever-so familiar Marylebone Road. Whether you’re in London for a night or need domestic escape as a resident, this is the kind of luxury hotel you want to take a chance on. Just don’t forget the compulsory Voya seaweed massage…

222 Marylebone Road
London NW1 6JQ

www.thelandmarklondon.co.uk.

There has been something of a recent Renaissance for Venetian cuisine in London, with Soho’s much hyped Polpo and its new sibling Polpetto offering tapas-sized portions of popular dishes. However if you’re looking for something altogether more substantial, 2 Veneti is the place to head.

Already well established in the top rank of what can be a highly competitive field, the cuisine at the restaurant belies the somewhat neutral decor. A range of succulent antipasti might include decadently creamy mozzarella or cucumber and crab salad, and the lamb ravioli should not be missed as a pasta course. There’s an excellent variety of both fish and meat for the secondi or main, with particular highlights including tender calves’ liver and fresh, vibrant sea bass – a particular house specialty, we are proudly informed.

As you might expect, the restaurant offers a great range of Venetian wines by both the glass and bottle, and a rich and full-bodied Chianti was the highlight of what we tried. A decadent glass of dessert wine to accompany moreish puddings such as chocolate salami is the perfect end to a lovely meal, and one that represents outrageously good value at £35 for 4 delicious courses.

One of the things that makes visiting 2 Veneti such a pleasure is the attention paid to all the little touches that normally get neglected in restaurants. The service, from natives of the Veneto region, finds just the right balance between friendly and familiar. The basket of Italian bread, an obligatory and often unnecessary addition to a meal, is here a genuine pleasure due to the impeccable quality of the focaccia; practically a meal in itself. And, if you’ve still got capacity at the end of the meal, a glass of the excellent Venetian grappa will round off a splendid evening more than pleasantly.

2 Veneti
10 Wigmore Street
London
W1U 2RD

Telephone: +44 (0)207 637 0789

Opening Times:

Lunch (Mon to Fri): 12.00 to 15.00
Dinner (Mon to Fri): 18.00 to 22.30 (Saturday ) lunch closed /Dinner 18:00 to 23:00

Closed Sundays

If you expected the Sanderson Hotel in London – haunt of the fashion and media glitterati – to be on the bleeding edge with well-trained eyes and ears for predicting the next big thing then you’d be absolutely correct.

This is amply proved by their annual series of summer showcase gigs in their covered garden on Thursday evenings – presented in association with Beefeater Gin and Modular – which aim to highlight the latest and greatest in new and emerging talent. The hit rate so far is admirably high: Little Boots and Marina & The Diamonds were on the roster last summer and have since soared onto the mainstream scene. Back in June, Coco Sumner (Sting’s Daughter) performed an intimate acoustic set with her band I Blame Coco to rave reviews.

The night we attended saw hotly tipped singer-songwriter Rox perform for a packed courtyard. Rox, whose debut album Memoirs has attracted critical praise and strong commercial interest, wooed the room with singles including ‘I Don’t Believe’, ‘My Baby Left Me’ and ‘No Going Back’. It’s refreshing to write the words ‘it’s hard to categorise her style’, but I’d venture to say a cross between old-school Motown pop and something more modern, harder-edged. This songstress is the real deal with all the ingredients to cross that narrow bridge to superstardom: charisma, brio, sass – not to mention that voice!

And as you would expect from the Sanderson, the standard of food and drink on offer was nothing short of excellent. Beefeater was offered in well-priced (£8.50!) cocktail varieties. My eager guest opted for the ginger and pineapple martini, while I happily tucked into a ‘Bee Fest Martini’, a hat trick of mango puree, pink grapefruit juice and passion fruit syrup. The moreish bar snacks included an international medley of tapas size sharing plates including: mini chorizo in quince puree, rib eye steak skewers with peanut and chilli sauce and steamed buns with braised pork belly.

Perfect cocktail in one hand, Rox belting out the next big hit in the middle of this lush, under-lit garden. Just enough LA vibe for a stellar night out in London.

Sanderson Hotel
50 Berners Street
London
W1T 3NG

Tel – +44(0) 207 300 1400

The name conjures up images of a woman about town – the cinematic cosmopolitan beauty, socialite, heiress and all-around stunner… Welcome to Hong Kong, Lily.

Lily’s interiors are best described as Mad Men on moonshine; the kind of place where you can channel your inner Marilyn, Rita Hayworth or Cary Grant; a place where that elusive something you can’t quite put your finger on meets sheer sex appeal. The best part: there’s no minimum table charge and no guest list. Just rock up, say hello and sit down. No fuss – just the way I like it.

Wood paneling, ornate iron grills, unisex toilets, porcelain fountain, glass chandeliers and that amicable buzz of patrons enjoying great food and even better cocktails.

Drawing inspiration from the speakeasies of the 1920s jazz and prohibition era, you’ll find clandestine cigar rooms behind closed doors, a refreshing range of nearly-forgotten cocktails and plush leather furniture set against the flickering glow of tea light candles – all in all, a sleek and intimate respite from the brashness of Lan Kwai Fong.

Unlike most bars in Hong Kong, they don’t free-pour their spirits but instead use measures. This ensures a consistently delicious cocktail every time. There’s nothing worse than opting for your favourite mojito at a much loved bar and finding the flavour is completely off because your bartender isn’t working that night.

At Lily, their bartenders are not only first rate mixologists, they are extremely knowledgeable about the history of every single cocktail they make – I dare you to challenge them!

I am a newfound convert of their Raspberry Sidecar and Vodka Southside; both achieve that perfect balance of sweet and tart with refreshing summer flavours that go down – I’m somewhat ashamed to say – a little too easily. Other suggestions: vodka or gin gimlet, Old Fashioned (à la Mad Men), Classic Negroni or Daiquiri. Those who appreciate a stronger brew should try the mint julep – a generous dose of Woodford Reserve Bourbon and mint over plenty of rough-cut ice. Yes, even ice cubes are too 21st century for Lily. Ice is carved from a solid block in rocky chunks, old school style.

Carrying on the prohibition theme – skirting around Hong Kong’s smoking ban – their secret cigar room, hidden behind an innocuous looking part of the wall, is the perfect place to enjoy a private smoke. They not only have lockable humidors for rent, which can be used for storing your favourite cigars, but also an ingenious self-service system for ordering food and drinks to the room. Suffice to say, the system involves coloured lights, an old-fashioned phone and a cleverly-concealed cubby hole. I’ll leave the rest for you to discover.

One of the best things about Lily is that the kitchen stays open until 3am at weekends and 2am on weeknights. A menu that includes roasted bone marrow, burgers with truffle mayo, beef tenderloin Carpaccio, and Waldorf salad showcases the classic NYC influences evident throughout.

One floor down is the bistro, brasserie and oyster bar, Bloom. The rolling blackboard and long bar conjure up scenes of secret rendezvous; a place where passionate affairs take place…

Together, Lily and Bloom make the perfect pair.

Lily and Bloom

+852 2810 6166

Hotel 4/5
Restaurant 5/5

Sanctum Soho is a pious affair for rock gods and movie stars. Or it’s a rebel’s lair, or one of those half-remembered dreams, depending on your state of mind. Launched by Mark Fuller of Iron Maiden fame, they’ve kitted out the rooms with so much boho love that trashing them would be like taking a bat to a limited edition Doors 7 inch. But I haven’t got to room 307 yet, with its many-mirrored columns and glass beaded wallpaper, pale pinks and satiny embers on the walls…

7.00pm. There is a Catholic sanctuary next door, and they honoured it when they put up those large gold letters at 20 Warwick Street. The coupling of Sanctum and Soho does wonderful things to the mind before you really know what you’re getting. You think of one of those chirpy Vegas haunts where love-struck Romeo’s get married. I look over my shoulder, and the girl who’s coming in with me is neither love struck, nor in need of a shiny rock. But I’ve promised her good food, and I’ve already handed out one too many compliments.

Daliesque paintings on the walls make my eyes reel as I pull her right into Restaurant No.20. It’s a phantasmagoria of crocodile-skin and slivers of purple glass with the whole bar reflected against bronze-gold leather banquettes. Dinner will be a healthy dose of fine art; the plates of veal and duck, the treacle tart and rose champagne are laid out on veneer tables, and one laughing Blonde applies lipstick as a rather stiff, sulky rock-god swills his glass. But dinners at Eight, and it’s only 7.23.

We had just been to see Nolan’s new movie, Inception. Time was in my mind, and time seemed to slow as we accelerated up to the roof garden on the Fifth. ‘You mustn’t be afraid to dream a little bigger, darling’ I say after considering an aperitif at dusk with a cigar and a copy of Le Monde.

This is first and foremost London’s last sanctuary for smokers, looking out over Soho the way I looked out through the mists of the Neva from the Hotel De L’Europe in Petersburg. The smoke curls through the cigar lounge, and rises above the al fresco Jacuzzi where I didn’t see Al Pacino shouting at the Plasma TV. But I did see some surreal black and white footage of some Nuns, and we ordered something dark in a glass, and I realized that positive emotion trumps negative emotion every time. It’s better to breathe oxygen than carbon monoxide – but that’s why the plants are there.

8:22. We order our starters. Baby Spinach and Cashel Blue Cheese Salad, Charcuteri Balsamic Red Onions and Walnuts; mid price range. Seriously – five out of five, or Helen of Troy to Agamemnon’s Clytemnestra –  such is how I compare the Redhead by my side with a girl I saw in the Roof Garden. The Redhead goes for Foie Gras Terrine and Grape Chutney. She is disappointed and leaves most of it. We don’t talk about it, but her glass of rose – Sancerre, La Croix 2008 – is empty, and our Sommelier/waitress looks upset when she fills it up. After trying the 30day Sirloin, my instincts heighten and I realize that the Redhead is smiling at the Barbary Duck Breast, and the Confit Duck Tortolloni has stuck itself between her teeth. High-five then, and a glowing review, especially after our stomachs are lined all pink and creamy with strawberry trifle. First one I ever tasted, and I’ll be damned if they didn’t put a bit of Rockafella JD in it, just to keep us neat.

9.40. Time ticking on and the night-manager Angelo shows us his best suite. It’s got a circular bed that Joss Stone slept in. Here’s the trick: iPod docks and soundproofed walls so you can leather the speakers. Wii consoles, rain showers, guitar amps, stand-alone baths with magic curtains; and he tells us that for no extra charge, a figure resembling a monk from next door will knock on your door at any hour you wish and shake up a Martini. It sounded absurd when he said it so nonchalantly-like, and then turned on his heels and we flew down the elevator shaft into a room full of bright blue armchairs and a monster cinema-screen on the wall. ‘They take private bookings… worked here a lot during the world cup’ he was saying, but Angelo suddenly reminded me of someone I met on holiday once. He had the same courteous smile, and the way he lifted his eyebrows and the way his eyes sparked like the bar cabinet behind him…

I waited for the dream to collapse; I always thought the Redhead was too good to be true…

I didn’t have that aperitif the next morning; the paper was in English; there was no swaggering out of the room of shimmering mirrors like Travolta (though I unconsciously quaffed my hair up). It was 11.38, and before I left, I spun a coin on the table, just to check I wasn’t still dreaming.

The Redhead wasn’t there anymore, and on the table, a silver box contained fragrant roses…

For reservations, please go to www.sanctumsoho.com.

20 Warwick Street, Soho, London W1B 5NF