QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | Food & Drink

With January now over, all of my wonderfully virtuous resolutions for the New Year have slowly fallen by the wayside…

I have joined a gym – and ventured there twice; I have cut out chocolate and replaced it with wine, and my Sunday morning running schedule has been cut short by a near death experience involving a patch of black ice and a very suspect looking fox. All-in-all, it’s not been the most successful start to a healthy 2011.

But there is a light at the end of the tunnel, a tunnel that led me to the doors of the South Kensington Malaysian eatery – Awana. Knowing that dozens of mortals like myself will be suffering from the post January health kick blues, Awana have developed an ingenious solution in the form of their ‘Detox Menu’ – a menu that allows you to indulge in the delights of eating out, without resulting in you bursting out of your clothes.

Some might call this sacrilege – how can you truly enjoy a meal out knowing that the food is (shudder) good for you? Isn’t the sense of guilt you feel after tucking into your meal all just part of the fun? Well allow me to shed a little light on the situation…

On arrival at Awana my guest and I (you didn’t think I was going to attempt healthy eating alone did you?) were greeted with a knowing smile and a truly delicious Lychee Bellini (so far, not so healthy). Taking our seats in the bar I felt like we had entered the Malaysia of the1930’s, surrounded by teak wood screens, deep red leather and a heady opium intense atmosphere, with old school jazz tunes crooning away in the background.

Then it was time for our pre-dinner massage courtesy of Mami from the Chi Yu Wellness Centre – the massage we were told would aid the digestion of our food as well as soothing any aches or pains, meaning our dining experience would be all the more enjoyable. It’s quite a unique experience to sit on a massage chair in the middle of a bar, bellini to my left and fellow diners to my right, but that was soon forgotten as Mami set to work on all of my knots. Quickly establishing that I worked at a desk and carried all my tension in my shoulders, Mami literally lulled me into a peaceful slumber and all thoughts of dinner were forgotten.

All too quickly my treatment was over and we continued our detox journey with the arrival of our first course – I chose the Dahl soup, a rich and soothing mix of lentils, tomatoes, snake beans and carrot, while my guest enjoyed the exotic tiger prawn salad with rose apple, spring onion, peppers and cooling mint leaves.

In keeping with the healthy theme, for my main course I opted for the vegetable stir-fry which proved to be a shrewd move after the delicious but rather filling soup – my guest had chosen equally well if not better (although I hate to admit it) as her monkfish curry was so fragrant and colourful that she felt obliged to share it with me, which of course was the outcome I had hoped for.

One would assume that a detox menu could not possibly entertain the idea of dessert, in fact we had assumed that the chilli laced prawn crackers at the start of the meal were to be the only ‘sinful’ item on the agenda. We were right about the sinful part, but that did not detract from the sheer deliciousness of the gargantuan fresh fruit platter that arrived laden with mango, star fruit, melon, pineapple, kiwi and pears – a veritable exotic fruit orgy.

Stepping out into the frosty January night, a strange feeling of smugness washed over me, I had just enjoyed a three course meal and felt incredibly fresh, revived and irritatingly virtuous (bellini and prawn crackers aside) – that’s not to say I won’t be back to Awana to sample the delights of their defiantly non-detox Satay Menu – but just for now, I feel very pleased with myself indeed

85 Sloane Avenue, Greater London, SW3 3DX
http://www.awana.co.uk/
http://www.chi-yu.co.uk/

This February, for three consecutive evenings only, Japanese food legend, Nobu Matsuhisa will be flying into Europe to host a unique, intimate dining experience for the countries most intrepid gourmands, in the private dining room of the stunning Nobu Restaurant on Old Park Lane. Those who are unfamiliar with Matsuhisa will almost certainly be aware of his restaurant, Nobu, a celebrity favourite which is considered to be one of the best restaurants in the capital.

Sushi lovers are invited to be audience to Nobu San as he speaks in person about the tradition, design and creation of his world class cuisine, before being invited to sample delights, created by the expert hands of a world class sushi master. The lucky diners will be educated and inspired, as each carefully curated dish leads in the search of umami – the fifth taste. Each course will be expertly paired with carefully chosen Sake to subtly and authentically counterpoint the dish’s flavour.

Umami is said to be a round, savoury taste, which causes the mouth to water with satisfaction. With a menu that includes King Crab Tempura with Amazu Ponzu and Grilled Wagyu Steak with Jerusalem artichokes and a Nameko mushroom and Sansho pepper sauce, you will not be disappointed

For those who want to come away with a taste of Japan, this will be the perfect alternative to traversing the globe as you are personally entertained by the world’s most celebrated Japanese cuisineur.

Spaces are limited to just 60 seats for each evening, and reservations can be made in advance. Tickets for this unique event are priced at £260 per person.

To reserve, please contact Amir Jati, Events and Private Dining Manager at Nobu London on amirj@noburestaurants.com

Some high-end restaurants like to maintain an atmosphere of informality and relaxation, as if the managers and staff are saying ‘Hey, kick off your shoes and make yourself at home! Got kids who want to mess about? That’s fine with us!’ This charming air of hospitality – ‘glass of champagne there? Oh you know you want to’ – is somewhat undercut when the equally high-end bill arrives at the end of the meal, and realisation dawns that the waitress wasn’t just bringing you vintage cognac because she liked your smile.

Other restaurants, of which Roussillon is one, make no bones about what they are; grown-up, serious gastronomic experiences, with a discerning and wealthy clientele who are willing to spend lavishly on food and drink that epitomise the best of what’s currently to be had today. Upon entering the tastefully decorated dining room, the first thing you notice is the absence of bells and whistles; the attention here is to what’s on your plate and in your glass. Chef Daniel Gill, who took over from Roussillon’s previous chef Alexis Gauthier, is a mere stripling of 25, but he has maintained Gauthier’s impeccable standards, aided by a charming and highly professional team.

Roussillion has been justly famous for its ‘menu legumes’, an entirely vegetarian menu that seeks to cater to meat-eaters and vegetarians alike with innovative dishes that might include wilted baby gem lettuce with pickled radish and gingerbread puree, or Jerusalem artichoke veloute and confit with autumn black truffle and tagliatelle. However, being a fully paid-up carnivore, I tried the more conventional tasting menu, which nevertheless offers ceaseless delights (with the sole exception of a slightly woody pistachio frangipane and sable), from a confit of salmon that has been cured in lime to a char-grilled rib eye of beef which is served, unusually but thrillingly, with watercress and smoked eel.  The cheese course towards the end, mixing French and British, is another particular highlight.

The restaurant is justly famous for its 400-bin wine list, which mixes everything from the unpretentiously affordable to the stratospherically priced, presumably aimed at those diners whose wallets can take the not inconsiderable hit without flinching. For ordinary mortals, probably the best way of negotiating the copious varieties on offer is to take the sommelier’s suggestions, which are available by the glass with any of the menus, be they the tasting or a la carte.

Chelsea is not exactly unknown for its excellent restaurants, but this is something a bit special. It might not be the kind of place that encourages you to kick your shoes off when you get in the door, but, for the well-heeled, this is an invaluable addition to any address book.

16 St Barnabas St, SW1 www.roussillon.co.uk

If you’re a connoisseur of fine Chinese cuisine, then Fitzrovia’s Hakkasan restaurant, first opened in 2001, is surely on your radar. Awarded a much-deserved Michelin star, its combination of superb dining, a stunning wine list and to-die-for cocktails have attracted much praise from glitterati and gourmands alike. Yet there were also vague murmurings amongst the cognoscenti that what seemed fresh and exciting a decade ago was now starting to seem almost like part of the furniture. How can such a sexy and forward-looking brand be developed?

The answer, perhaps inevitably, was to open a second branch. This time, Hakkasan Mayfair (as it’s now called) is located in the plush and plutocratic surroundings of Mayfair’s Bruton Street, a stone’s throw from Berkeley Square. While the original’s low-key setting down a back street conveyed a certain air of secrecy, here the location smacks of opulence, even if the atmospheric corridor that you stroll down to enter the restaurant still retains the private, in-the-know feel that enticed so many visitors to the first restaurant. The glamorous, Diane von Fustenberg-attired staff greet you and make you aware that you have entered a truly classy destination.

As you would expect, the new one retains most of the strengths that made the original such a landmark. The cocktail list offers innovative and delicious drinks to start your meal, with a subtle but noticeable Oriental influence. A Mai Tai Tai combines mango and Hendrick’s gin – a great favourite – to stunning effect, whereas a Plum Sour, melding plum sake, Rock and Rye and aromatic bitters, perfectly sets the scene for the meal about to unfold.

Anyone who has been to Hakkasan will know that, with a couple of honourable exceptions, it bears about as much resemblance to the average London Chinese restaurant as Chicken Cottage does to The Ritz. At a recent lunchtime visit, the selection of dim sum on offer was both substantial and exciting, with ‘oh that sounds interesting’ options such as ostrich roll and scallop shu mai, along with old but delicious favourites such as the venison puff and har gau dumplings. More substantial main courses included quail stuffed with foie gras – rich, decadent and delicious – and braised pork belly in double soy sauce, which managed the difficult feat of making something as comparatively widespread as pork belly taste exciting and fresh again. Complimented superbly by a light and refreshing bottle of Austrian Riesling, it was a superb experience, beautifully tailed by desserts including a chestnut and blackcurrant tart that struck the perfect balance between sweet and savoury.

There’s no question that this will emulate its predecessor and be a huge success (and it will be interesting to see how the brand is developed over the next few years, with other restaurants in Mumbai, Miami and Abu Dhabi, and more rumoured). Whether you want a full-on gourmet extravaganza or a light lunch, there’s something here for absolutely everyone.

17 Bruton Street, London W1. w3.hakkasan.com/mayfair

Walking out of Liverpool Street Station it’s hard to miss the elegant redbrick exterior of the Andaz Hotel – the hotspot du jour where high flying city slickers and their Louboutin shod companions while away the stress of the trading floor. The dramatic 50 seat horseshoe shaped Champagne Bar clad in striking aquamarine and silver mosaic, is the perfect backdrop for sharing a bottle or two of vintage Bollinger Grande Année 1999, until your carriage arrives to whisk you off into the night.

But hidden beyond the roaring atmosphere of the Champagne Bar, you will find respite in the calm oasis of Catch – a sumptuous dining room bathed in a rippling aqua light. My date and I were seated by the gargantuan seafood bar that dominates the centre of the room displaying the finest and freshest offerings from the renowned Billingsgate Market.

If the piscine décor hadn’t given you a clue, seafood is very much on the menu at Catch; in fact, we were at a loss as to which of the aquatic delights to choose from, finally opting to start with the Smoked Maldon salmon with Avruga caviar on an innovative bed of spinach and potato waffles, and the goats cheese flan topped with beetroot veloute and hazelnuts as an antidote to seafood overload.

The charming (and if I’m honest rather dashing) sommelier had selected a bottle of Gruner Veltliner, Domane Wachau 2007, to accompany our meal – and insisted that we try the chef’s specialty amuse bouche of ox cheek ragu on a bed of fondant potato – perfectly bite-sized and presented rather cheekily on a spoon.

As the wine began to flow the talk turned to many things, namely of ‘shoes and ships and sealing wax, of cabbages and kings’ – Carrollean musings prompted by the Neptunic platter of Oysters being consumed by the gentlemen at the adjacent table, who seemed to be enjoying our envious gaze nearly as much as his meal.

Our main courses arrived and our envy was sated by the feast that was spread before us. I had opted for the roasted ocean trout with aubergine, coated in a lemony greek yoghurt and laced with dreams of the Aegean. My date had opted for the more traditional ‘posh’ fish and chunky chips – fuelled with a fiery horse radish kick and wrapped in the front pages of The Andaz News.

For a restaurant so entirely devoted to the fruit of the seas, I wondered how Catch would fare when it came to turning their attention to the sweeter things in life. I am admittedly something of a pudding fiend and so it was with trepidation that I watched my white chocolate cheesecake approach the table. I should have known I had no reason to fret. The cheesecake was swirled with a mandarin coulis and the citrusy flavour enhanced the sweetness of the white chocolate and vanilla cream – my only concern that my date seemed to be enjoying my dessert far more than his own equally heavenly milk chocolate and hazelnut mousse.

The seafood alone makes Catch stand apart from other fine dining establishments, add in the spectacular atmosphere, exquisite service and impressive Champagne selection and you really do have something very special indeed. My final thoughts; as for my date, well there are plenty more fish in the sea, but when it comes to food I think I may have found the perfect Catch.

www.andazdining.com/catch/catch.asp

The third restaurant from partners Anthony Demetre and Will Smith (no, not that one), after their acclaimed and Michelin-starred Arbutus and Wild Honey, Les Deux Salons has quickly established itself as one of central London’s most glamorous destinations. It isn’t at all hard to see why. Based in the unlikely settings of a former Pitcher & Piano round the corner from Trafalgar Square, it has been an enormous success since its opening, attracting the great and the good, all grateful for a high-class establishment of this nature in what has traditionally been a culinarily-deprived part of town.

The first impression that you have upon entering is of a pleasing mix of grandiosity and old-world charm, with all the grand bistro trappings that visitors to the likes of The Wolseley and Galvin Bistrot Deluxe will be familiar with, from a traditional zinc bar and excellent cocktails (try a Negroni or Singapore sling) to the clubby wood panelling. Thankfully, the impression here isn’t all aesthetic. The food is perhaps less obviously haute cuisine than the dishes at Wild Honey, and feels slightly more conventional than the often St John-esque fare served at Arbutus, but what is clear is the quality and ambition of the cooking.

Starters include the intriguing-sounding ‘snail and bacon pie’ which does exactly what it says on the tin, the garlicky snails perfectly complimented by the delicate, melt-in-mouth pastry and tender bacon, all of which combine to make this far more intriguing than the usual snails in their shells. As if to show that Demetre’s instincts at making offal appealing are still in place, a dish of lamb sweetbreads was superbly rich and gamey, without any of the stringiness that can spoil this dish. A shared main course special of USDA steak was exemplary in the way that the marbling of the fat was cooked in such a way as to enhance the taste of the meat, making it delectable. Desserts are excellent examples of the traditional French brasserie style, such as a dark chocolate mousse, or the cheeseboard is always a reliable option.

Something that Demetre and Smith have attracted much deserved praise and attention for is their choice to have the majority of the wine list available by the 250ml carafe as well as by the bottle, which includes such delights as a 2009 Bodegas Jose Pariente Verdejo white, or a perfect 2006 Petit Verdot from Tenuta Riseccoli in Tuscany, as well as some splendid dessert wines by the glass.

Given the excellent early reaction that there’s been, with numerous critics putting this high on their list of new openings of 2010, we recommend that you visit this fine establishment sooner rather than later, and see what all the fuss is about. It’s entirely justified.

40-42 William IV Street, London WC2. www.lesdeuxsalons.co.uk.

“Would you like a drink in our Martini Bar before dinner, sir?” This was my greeting at Christopher’s American Bar and Grill, and, after a lifetime of exams, I can tell you it’s possibly the easiest question I’ve ever faced.

The bar is busy but not crowded and the murmur of satisfied customers accompanies the excellent cocktail menu. As the name suggests, martinis take centre stage in this elegant bar with tradition sitting comfortably alongside contemporary versions developed by the staff.

The Martini Bar serves food far above stereotypical bar snacks, where perfectly seared and blackened tuna with an intense wasabi kick replace the humble pork scratching. Above the bar is the opulent dining room, reached via an ornate spiraling stone staircase.

Christopher’s has always had a reputation as the preferred destination for high-flying journalists and this hasn’t changed – walking through the busy room, my eyes momentarily settled on a notorious former tabloid editor enjoying his steak.

The food of head chef, and former Olympic triple-jumper, Francis Agyepong triumphs throughout. The starters include a deftly executed duck confit with tamarind sauce, whilst the five-spice belly of pork is exquisitely tender. Such excellence is nicely complimented by a bottle of Chateau Cissac from the well-furnished wine list.

As is to be expected, the steaks are excellent, treated simply and cooked perfectly so that the natural flavour of the high quality meat shines through. The sides tell a similar story, complimenting rather than competing and so leaving the steak as the star of the show.

The puddings are an all-American treat. From traditional New York cheesecake, to pecan pie, they are high-end adaptations of the desserts American films have made us so familiar with.

The restaurant’s attention to detail is evident across the board – from the service, attentive but not intrusive, to the delicious chocolates that accompany the end of the meal.

Christopher’s is a rare thing, a restaurant specialising in steak which steers clear of clichés, and an American-inspired menu which avoids degenerating into a theme park – I will most definitely be back.

Albert and Michel Roux Jr have an enviable reputation throughout the world for some of the restaurants that they are associated with. Le Gavroche and The Waterside Inn, to name but two, regularly feature in accounts of the top 50 restaurants anywhere. Now, father and son have their first collaboration in 19 years in the auspicious surroundings of the Langham Hotel, and it’s a conspicuous success and a pleasure to visit.

The first thing that you notice arriving in the grand David Collins-designed room is how splendidly ornate your surroundings are, with an atmosphere like a cross between a luxurious ocean liner and a fin-de-siecle ballroom. Of course an impressive room does not always make for a good evening’s dining, but the skill and professionalism of the cooking here, from head chef Chris King, means that no diner is likely to be disappointed.

There’s virtually every kind of menu on offer here, ranging from a la carte to the restaurant’s pride and joy, their sommelier menu, a seven-course extravaganza which is designed to be paired with some of the extensive offerings from the cellar. Whatever you choose, you’ll be offered some of the most innovative and distinctive food available in the capital at the moment. Cooking as perfectly executed as citrus cured smoked salmon with Aquitaine caviar, roast wild sea bass and brown shrimps and the piece de resistance, the short rib of beef (truly melt-in-mouth stuff) deserves every kind of accolade.

The 1400-strong wine list is presented in a book so thick that it would take even the hardiest oenophile several days to digest, and the service from the more than capable staff is sensibly paced, allowing diners moments of pause and rest between the gastronomic delights. If the Michelin inspectors make another visit during the course of this year, and this fine establishment isn’t graced with at least one star, there is little justice.

Roux At The Langham, Portland Place, W1. www.thelandau.com

When you hear that the excellent chef of Holborn’s fine restaurant is called Jun Tanaka, and that the restaurant itself is named Pearl, the obvious and lazy assumption is to think that it specialises in Oriental food. In fact, Tanaka’s excellent cooking is far more indebted to Western and European traditions, perhaps a legacy of his earlier work with Marco Pierre White and at restaurants as eclectic as The Square and The Capital. Yet his background is perhaps evident in the way in which he takes risks far beyond the purview of many other chefs, often succeeding in thrilling and highly original fashion. This is cooking as front row stalls theatre as much as it is simple dining.

The restaurant, located within a stylish setting on High Holborn (and indeed the eagle eyed might remember it being used in the finale of Masterchef: The Professionals) is aesthetically pleasing from the off, with a slick, New York vibe to it that undercuts the potential stuffiness that other fine dining restaurants often find. But the fireworks here are culinary from the off, with a starter of beautifully cooked scallops being taken to daring heights by the addition of herb-encrusted chicken oysters and garlic puree. The potential for disaster with this kind of combination is sky high, so full credit to Mr Tanaka for not just pulling this off, but pulling it off with style to spare. It’s a pleasure to eat, and this lasts throughout the meal, with daring, innovative touches including the unthinkable but delicious addition of a beetroot tarte tatin to a main course of perfectly cooked Denham estate venison and a dessert – which even now, a couple of weeks after our visit, makes me feel nostalgic – of peanut and caramel chocolate dome, which is about as perfect a pudding as I can remember.

The wine list is capacious, almost overwhelming with its near-endless array of fine vintages. Perhaps nodding to Tunaka’s eclectic range of influences, this isn’t the usual kow-towing to Old World sensibilities, but offers an exciting range of wines from around the globe, both by the bottle and the glass. A 1977 Rivesaltes dessert wine might well be one of the highlights, especially combined with the wonders of the chocolate dome. But whatever you like, the genuinely friendly and helpful staff will steer you in the right direction.

Calling a restaurant Pearl is tempting fate, with any number of dismissive puns about inferior establishments just waiting to be made. Thankfully, the quality of the experience here, on every level, more than justifies the name. This is a marvellous place, and highly recommended for a visit.

252 High Holborn, London WC1 www.pearl-restaurant.co.uk

The no-man’s-land between Leicester Square and Covent Garden in London is filled to the brim with the sort of identikit, dull restaurants that nobody would want to visit, and a few failed attempts at doing something slightly more off the beaten track. However, there are small signs that things are starting to look more interesting. This mini-renaissance is due at least in park to Dishoom, a new Bombay-style cafe that prides itself on serving an eclectic array of dishes, ranging from everything from bacon naan rolls with chilli jam at breakfast time, through to cocktails, grills, small plates and tandoori items at other occasions.

A late afternoon visit just before Christmas saw the popular ground floor restaurant full to the brim with visitors tucking into the innovative and delicious Anglo-Indian fare. ‘Small plates’ – which, if a selection of three or four are ordered, will do perfectly well as a meal for two – consist of such delights as Bombay sausages, marinated in Bombay massala, chilli cheese toast and Keema Pau, spiced lamb with warm buttered bread. All are exceptionally reasonably priced and similarly tasty. For those with larger appetites, grills and biryanis include spicy lamb chops rubbed with chillies and black pepper, or dill salmon tikka. Side dishes include what is proudly described as the signature black daal and some surprisingly light and unsurprisingly delicious naan breads.

Whether you fancy an alcoholic or non-alcoholic drink, there’s plenty of choice. The range of lassis and chais is exceptionally impressive – the bhang lassi, which is flavoured with ginger, mint and spice is a particular highlight, whether or not you take it with rum – or if you fancy something a bit stronger, a well-selected and keenly priced wine list has some delightful New World options, including an excellent Latitud 43 Malbec, and the cocktail menu has numerous joys, such as a ‘chaijito’, a refreshing take on the traditional Mojito.

There are rumours afoot that Dishoom will itself be opening other branches in due course. If they are all of this standard, then we have something to look forward to over the next couple of years.

12 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2. www.dishoom.com