QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | Style

From organic clothing to local, seasonal foods, the interest in sustainable and socially-responsible products has grown immensely over the past few years. Insider sat down with Natalie Melville, founder of Melville Fine Jewellery, to discuss her new bespoke and ethical jewellery collection and find out if diamonds really are a girl’s best friend.

Q: Could you tell us a little about your background in the industry?

I received a BA (Hons) in Jewellery Design from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and have also worked alongside master craftsman and goldsmith Gerry Summers. Since setting up my bespoke fine jewellery business five years ago, I’ve designed everything from engagement rings through to gem set opera-style necklaces for clients out of my London showroom. The style of my work is very organic – I often use a lace-like carving technique.

Q: What gave you the idea to launch an ethical jewellery line?

I’d always been vigilant when it came to sourcing materials but despite increased transparency – the diamond trade has its own international regulations and standards – I felt I wasn’t able to fully reassure my clients about my supply chain.

Mining coloured gemstones, metal and diamonds requires the use of highly toxic chemicals – this is in addition to the risk of cave-ins at poorly constructed mines. This has been the driving force behind the pioneering work of the Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International and the Alliance for Responsible Mining. In February this year, they launched the world’s first Fairmined Mark which aims to bring social, environmental and economic development to artisanal and small-scale mining communities.

Melville Fine Jewellery has been awarded the Fairmined Mark and we’ll be the only brand in the Far East carrying this distinction.

Q: Where does the inspiration for your jewellery designs come from?

I’ve always had a love of literature and many of my previous pieces have been inspired by a character in a novel – I see each piece having its own personality! One piece that springs to mind is Pierrot. Known as ‘The Crying Clown’, Pierrot was a sad figure often depicted in old children’s stories. The piece I created was a 30-carat black moonstone ‘crying’ teardrop aquamarines.

Q: Could you explain a bit more about the bespoke design process – how does it work between you and the client?

Every client is different so each bespoke experience varies depending on the client’s needs. However, a traditional commission starts with a consultation – this a lovely time as I’m often trusted with someone’s ideas. Then, I’ll pull together a series of images and a selection of design renderings that can be tweaked. After, the piece is cast into gold or platinum. If gems are involved, I’ll work with the gem dealers or mines directly to ensure the right stone is selected.

Q: What are some of the most trends you’re seeing in terms of jewellery design and materials?

There’s been a resurgence of yellow gold in more contemporary incarnations. Long since relegated to quite dated designs, it’s now making a strong comeback. Diamonds are a classic that will never go out of style, but I’m seeing a more enthusiastic use of coloured gems such as rubies and emeralds as well.

Since Wallis Simpson’s stunning Cartier panther bracelet was auctioned at the end of last year, the interest in the vintage combination of onyx and diamond is definitely on the up. And naturally, following the recent engagement of Prince William to Kate Middleton with his mother’s famous sapphire ring, the popularity of sapphires has risen dramatically too.

Q: Can you tell us your plans for 2011 – and where can we expect to find Melville Fine Jewellery?

Melville Fine Jewellery will create one collection a year with the rest of the work coming through commissions. The launch date of our first exhibition is TBC but will comprise a press conference, a series of private events and a public exhibition at one of Hong Kong’s amazing galleries. At this stage, there are no plans to sell through any independent retail outlets as each piece is a one-off creation.

My studio will be by appointment only but I’m always available to see existing clients or welcome new ones at my workshop.

For more information on Melville Fine Jewellery, please contact Natalie Melville on nathalie@melvillejewellery.com.

Mix the soul of Prince, the panache of Beyonce, the vocal capacity of Whitney and the courage of Gaga and the outcome is 22-year-old singer/songwriter, Jessie J. I intend the former to be taken as traits rather than direct comparisons, because Jessie J is ultimately her own person: a matchless talent. This year has scarcely begun and she has already managed to own it, having topped the BBC’s ‘Sound of 2011’ list and won the ‘Critic’s Choice’ Brit Award.

In her tender years, Jessie J featured in Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical ‘Whistle Me Down,’ as well as attending the Brit School. These tastes of performance in her youth fuelled her ambition to work hard and get where she is today.

The singer’s ongoing heart problems have also made her more of a fighter and more appreciative of life than the average person, having seized every opportunity wholeheartedly. Since she is unable to drink, smoke or take drugs, Jessie admits she has no choice but to just be confident. She is a great inspiration for today’s low-morale youth and her encouragement is also evident in her music. She is a remarkable lyricist, but her songs stand out mostly because they’re jam packed with truth. “It’s okay not to be okay. Sometimes it’s hard, to follow your heart. But tears don’t mean you’re losing, everybody’s bruising. There’s nothing wrong with who you are.”

Jessie J has written hits for artists such as Christina Aguilera, Miley Cyrus, Chris Brown and Alicia Keys. Her debut single ‘Do it Like a Dude’ was initially written for Rihanna, but she decided to keep it for herself. By doing so, she aptly reached number two in the UK charts, finally seizing the limelight she is more than worthy of.

She cracked America as a song-writer when she co-wrote global hit ‘Party In The USA’ for Miley Cyrus. She was then noticed on YouTube by Chris Brown’s manager and he was so impressed by her voice and charisma that he asked her to support Chris Brown on the Europe leg of his sold-out tour. Cyndi Lauper even asked Jessie J to support her and invited her on stage to duet ‘Girls Just Wanna Have Fun’ alongside her. Being thrown in at the deep end has allowed Jessie J to gain both the confidence and experience of an artist beyond her years. Her celebrity backing is growing by the day, receiving praise via twitter from the likes of Paloma Faith and Kylie, as well as Justin Timberlake, who declared her the best singer in the world right now.

Although this down-to-earth Essex girl has already reached and captivated so many people with her music and her personality, she is by no means generic like the average Pop Star today. Her music defines her – likeable, expressive and sweet with a ghetto edge. But most significantly, she is a born performer. After having flooded YouTube with her homemade videos, which verify her raw talent, the Pop Queen has finally received her rightful reign of the stage.

Jessie J’s personality oozes through on her new online series ‘Dare Jessie’ where both her fans and various celebrities set her challenges. B.o.B recently dared her to find James Brown’s Hollywood star and to do an impression of him. As soon as she found it, she leapt straight into air-guitar mode and did her best impersonation, without being fazed at all by the passers-by. Jessie J proves she is not afraid to be herself and this lack of pretence is also evident in her live performances.

Look out for Jessie J’s next single in March called ‘Price Tag’ which features B.o.B and her greatly anticipated debut album entitled ‘Who You Are,’ which is scheduled for release later this year.

Quintessentially Music

www.jessiejofficial.com

Fade In

Late Evening: A contemporary boutique hotel, Marylebone, London. Through the distinctly un-hotelish doors of a handsome Georgian façade, past a brace of plush red armchairs by Christopher Guy, we pan round to find a stylish, heated cigar terrace. An air of sophistication and (steadily growing) self-satisfaction curls among the twenty or so cigar aficionado’s, now down to the last inch of their hand-rolled 6inch Trinidad Robustos. Attentive staff breeze in and out with wines and spirits.

Large Chap: …Sunday night in Rome, you have to go with the Julieta
Svelte Swedish Banker: 7 Inch vintage 98?
Large Chap: Or the Double Corona 7.6
Svelte Swedish Banker: You’re kidding?
Large Chap: I don’t kid.
Me: Why can’t I get up? I want to check out the humidor. I’m here to write this place up, you know?
Large Chap: Last inch will do it to you.
Me: Seriously. Why can’t I stand up?

Cut To

Same Terrace. Robustos have been replaced with dark liquor and flutes of Champagne. Filmy eyes accompanied by happy grunts. A Patrick Bateman look-a-like hands over a subtle, off-white coloured business card to a pretty new comer. Man with slick-backed hair sits down opposite the Large Chap, takes a sip of coffee liquor.

Me: The receptionist looks like a queen on that golden throne-like creation. Where did Frederick go?
Large Chap: Who’s that?
Me: That guy with the quiff.
Large Chap: No, that!
Me: Oh, that’s my lady-friend, you know? We have dinner now.
Large Chap: Stay for a while. I’ll buy you the Prince of Wales?
Me: Medium bodied, mild, and you can taste the cedar in it?
Large Chap: (grunts) Exactly. Best paired with a sweeter spirit before dinner.
Girl: Heya. I passed through the Lounge. Very fancy. Someone was eating something that I really want.
Large Chap: Come, take a seat. Let’s get you a drink?
Waiter: Mam, would you like to try a cigar?
Large Chap: Yes, she would. The Petit Julietas. With Scotch?
Me: Or Champagne? But no, we really have to go. Business card?
(Large Chap hands over the card)
Me: Asset Management? (laugh) I took you more for a professional boxer.
Large Chap: I got my nose flattened in Cuba…long story, if you care for it?
Girl: Or a quasi-professional cigar smoker?

Cut To

Behind a Japanese-style lacquered screen lit with minimalist pin lights, a lady in her sixties sits by a window, a lonely romantic, serenaded by the sound of falling rain. The small and cosy Lounge next door is a-glow in rich shades of browns and golds. On one table, a steak with potato wedges in a copper saucepan, and another plate of spinach and ricotta. A bottle of Cheval des Andes is poured out by a distinctive gentleman with emerald cuff-links. Man with slicked-back hair, blue suit and pointy loafers is taking notes.

Me: I should eat something before I come next time. The last inch of your Julietas hit me way too hard.
Girl: You need to put some weight on. Are you eating breakfast?
Me: Nice place, though. Definitely five star since the make over. Wait till you see the room.
Girl: Superior, right?
Me: Two massive flat-screens. Technology all there. Rain shower…I spent ten minutes opening the curtains though. You need to use this remote control.
Girl: Mini-bar with comedy pricelist?
Me: It’s a boutique hotel in Central London. What do you think?

Cigar evening at Ten Manchester Street. Time: 6.30pm. Prices: GBP 30.00 To find out when our next evening is and book your place, please call T 44 (0) 207 3175 900. Places are limited to 20 on the cigar terrace.

www.tenmanchesterstreethotel.com

Lust’s passion will be served; it demands, it militates, it tyrannizes. Marquis de Sade

Now when it comes to true love, perhaps the Marquis de Sade is not the most obvious choice for inspiration, but he does make a very good point – when we desire, want, need, demand something, it becomes our all consuming passion. So read on for a little insight into what your sweetheart will be lusting after this Valentine’s Day, be sure not to disappoint.

Say it with Cake?
Once upon a time you might have baked a cake for the one you love on Valentine’s Day, but the time for pretty pastels and sugar coated sweetness of cupcakes has passed. They have been replaced by the full on hedonistic raunchiness of Cox, Cookies and Cakes, the latest love child of shoe designer Patrick Cox. The Valentine’s offerings are the devilishly indulgent Love Lace cupcakes and the Love Notes cupcakes decorated with missives so naughty they made me blush.
Love Notes Cakes GBP 2.50, Love Lace Cakes GBP 4.00
www.coxcookiesandcake.com

Like a Moth to the Flame
Like a song with echoing voices, the two fragrances of this Diptyque candle duo intertwine into one harmonious melody. Let the scent of Piaget Rose, Blackcurrant and Violet combine with notes of Sandalwood, Myrrh and Cedar, lulling you into a romantic reverie.
GBP 55
www.diptyqueparis.com

Diamonds Are Forever
What do you get when you combine the work of Henri Matisse, 60 VVS1 brilliant cut diamonds and the finest red Italian leather? The answer is one extremely happy Valentine, with the stunning Matisse W80 time piece from Christopher Ward sitting beautifully on her wrist.
GBP 765
www.christopherward.co.uk

Hot Chocolate
My dad always told me that flowers mean “I’m sorry” and chocolates mean “I love you” – and with this stunning hot pink box of Prestat’s finest white, dark and milk chocolate truffles, fudges and nougats, there could be no finer way to make your true feelings known. Prestat are also the official purveyor of chocolates to the Queen, and if it’s good enough for Her Majesty then its good enough for me.
185g, GBP15.98
www.prestat.co.uk

Choo Love
As any fashionista knows the effect of the Jimmy Choo stiletto on our male counterparts, is truly magnificent. Now they’ve gone one step further and distilled all of that sensual mystique into the first Jimmy Choo eau de parfum. Glamorous in attitude, confident, intelligent just like the Jimmy Choo woman, this scent will leave him begging for a second date.
100ml, GPB 68
www.jimmychoo.com/fragrance

It’s In His Kiss
This Valentine’s treat your guy or gal to a decadent four course meal at the 1901 Restaurant at The Andaz Liverpool Street. If you want to make your meal a moment to remember, couples can opt to have their kiss immortalized by London artist Rebecca Ivatts, a refreshing and unique offering to show and celebrate your love.
Artworks range from GBP49 to GBP3,000
Dinner GBP 75 per person
www.rebeccaivatts.com
www.andaz.com

Montblanc for Him
Don’t worry boys you haven’t been forgotten and although we know, that you know Valentine’s Day is really all about the girls, here’s a little something to keep you sweet. The Montblanc Diamond Meisterstuck is the ideal thing to use for writing a sonnet about your Valentine’s loving and generous nature, don’t you agree?
www.montblanc.com
GBP 645

Kiss Me Quick
With all this romance in the air, your poor lips are undoubtedly going to see some action, so make sure that they stay kissably smooth with the new Dainty Doll Wonderbalm by Nicola Roberts (the flame-haired style maven from Girls Aloud). Containing mango seed oil to smooth and soften as well as natural plant extracts and beeswax to sooth the skin, Dainty Doll Wonderbalm will help keep your pout puckerably perfect long after February 14th.
Dainty Doll Wonderbalm is available from Harrods priced GBP 20.50
www.harrods.com

Anti-Valentine
But what if all this Love rubbish is making you feel just the slightest bit sick? With no handsome stranger rushing in to rescue you from your single gal doldrums, go ahead and be your own Valentine. The ‘Frankly my dear I don’t give a damn’ knuckle duster ring from Bjorg, is the perfect ‘I Love Me’ present and its cheeky message will leave no one in any doubt about your true feelings.
GBP 200
www.bjorgshop.com

The last time I put on a leotard and ballet shoes I was 5 years old and demonstrating my ability to perform good toes, naughty toes… So it was a surreal moment to find my now grown up self staring back at me from the mirror of the ballet studio, with my good toes once again primed for action.

If you hadn’t noticed, the world is experiencing something of a ballet moment, thanks to the arrival of Darren Aronofsky’s latest film The Black Swan. Fashion has fallen for the ethereal charms of Natalie Portman, and the Rodarte designed costumes ensure that layers of delicate tulle, be-ribboned shoes and sequin embellishments are firmly on the fashion agenda.

And so I found myself arriving at Frame Studios in London’s edgy Shoreditch to try my hand at their Black Swan inspired ballet class, where I would supposedly be transformed from ballet duckling into the Swan Queen.

For my transformation to properly begin I was provided with a complete ballet ensemble courtesy of contemporary dancewear company BLOCH – the sugar pink satin pumps elicited a sigh of joy from my lips – the all-in-one leotard on the other hand, not so much.

To complete my look I was placed in the hands of one of the lovely team from M.A.C –my eyes were winged with feathery lashes, my lids covered in shimmering coal black glitter and my lips coated in shades of electric pink. With my hair swept into an elegant chignon I was ready to take to the barre – but not before a glass of something fizzy had passed my lips to calm my nerves.

Channeling my inner Margot Fontaine I walked into the studio and took my place at the barre. The lovely Craig from Frame was our teacher for the night (a far cry from The Black Swan’s menacing Vincent Cassell) and as the soundtrack to the film struck up, he lead us through a 30 minute taster session of demi plies and tendu’s ending in some ‘light’ jumps – although mine were slightly more fairy elephant than sugar plum fairy.

Feeling incredibly poised and with slightly burning thighs, I indulged in a post class Black Swan inspired ‘whoopee pie’ (although I am sure this is not the typical way to end a ballet class) – before shedding my ballet persona and changing into my jeans – the ballet shoes however stayed on.

The Aubin Cinema was my next destination where a private screening of the film had been arranged to show the would be ballerinas how it’s really done. Part of the Soho House Group , the Aubin Cinema is full of lush velvet arm chairs complete with Aubin and Wills blankets to snuggle under (or hide your eyes behind), throw in a glass of red and some organic olives and you have a truly unique cinema experience.

The Black Swan undoubtedly lives up to the surrounding hype – Natalie Portman’s portrayal of the beautiful yet disturbed Nina Sayers is bewitching and the dancing itself simply mesmerising. I was told that Portman performed 90% of the dancing herself – an incredible feat when training for just a year, and one that made my efforts look considerably less impressive.

I doubt I will be earning an Oscar for my ballet moves anytime soon – but as far as exercise goes, ballet is definitely a winner. In fact I am going back for more – as of 5th February, Frame is launching its Black Swan Season, classes take place every Saturday for 4 weeks and cost £12 per class.

Toned legs, improved posture, inner poise and fabulous shoes – ballet is clearly the fashionistas exercise du jour… good toes, naughty toes, good toes, naughty toes.
www.moveyourframe.com

As the fashion world eagerly prepares for the upcoming London Fashion Week, Selfridges have dusted off the Christmas displays, stashed away the sale rails, and taken a radical new direction by giving twenty up and coming designers a unique platform to display their work.

The fashion forward department store has taken its pick of 20 young fashion ingénues who they believe will be showing at the fashion weeks of the future. Their creations receive maximum exposure in a unique window display, entitled ‘Bright Young Things’. The display features a range of creative talents, from illustrators to milliners, and the results range from achingly stylish to down right mad; Charlie Le Mindu, for instance, has created outfits made entirely from hair.

The youth of the designers chosen is striking. LiLee, whose lady-like designs incorporate a mixture of lace and rope trimming, only graduated from London College of Fashion last year. Another designer making their first foray into retail is Alex Noble, best known for having designed Lady Gaga’s infamous lace bodysuit, worn to last year’s Brit Awards.

These designers have been selected for their potential to ‘make it big’, so it will be music to the fashion lover’s ears to hear that each designer has created a piece to be sold exclusively in Selfridges pop-up and online stores.

This will prove to be a guilt free shopping experience, where the savvy stylista will come away with a unique fashion investment, hoping to have bought a piece by a ‘bright young thing’ who could just turn out to be the next-big-thing.

‘Bright Young Things’ will appear in the windows of Selfridges until 28th February. To find out more, visit Selfridges

Selfridges
400 Oxford Street
London
W1A 1AB

Insider caught up with Marcus Tancock to discuss his latest venture, EM-N8, which plans to re-define the way we express ourselves.

Designing bespoke emblems, insignias, crests and logos that can be embossed, embroidered or laser-printed on a signature range of EM-N8 items, a visit to their showroom in Hong Kong is the first step on a road to defining brand you.

Insider: Where did the idea for EM-N8 come from?

Marcus: The idea came to me when I was sitting in a management meeting. Wearing my brand new Gucci shirt, I looked across the table and noticed that my IT manager was wearing exactly the same shirt – it was then I realised that with globalisation and the intense commercialisation of luxury brands, it was much more difficult to be unique.

Insider: How does the process work?

Marcus: After entering the showroom, you’re given a 30 minute interview including 20 questions to learn more about you and your history and influences and a visual quiz where you choose your favourite images and icons. The visual quiz covers everything from your favourite landscapes, interiors and art to patterns, fonts, colours and design eras.

From this, our designers can start work on producing up to eight logos from which you choose one or two. Then we tweak those until we’ve created something that you love! That part of the design process takes about six weeks. But after your interview, you go shopping in the showroom with our stylists to select your own, completely unique range of clothes and accessories.

Insider: We really noticed the quality of your items – everything from gorgeous cigar humidors, fashionable belts, completely customisable polo shirts and bespoke suits and shirts – how did your source your items? Is there anything you can’t put a logo on?

Marcus:  At this time, all of our products have been sourced in Italy and everything’s been picked so you can apply your logo to it…some love it wild and colourful, while others like it simple and subtle. We’re gradually expanding our network of artisans and spending time in Japan too. That said, sourcing is somewhat challenging for us as we’re not mass producing and we need to be able to order small and limited quantities for our few select clients.

Insider: What’s been the reaction from your first few customers?

Marcus: It’s wonderful to see the look on their face when we hit ‘bingo’ in terms of creating a super design for them. There’s a great connection and we call it their visual DNA! Also, when our customers come to the showroom for the first time and their faces light up as they really understand the concept – it’s brilliant. Our model is a first in the global market so it takes time for people to properly understand what we do.

Insider: What’s the most unusual request you’ve had so far?

Marcus:  To send the insignia as a JPEG to a tattoo artist.

Insider: You’re launching in January – what can we expect in the year ahead?

Marcus: Expect a wonder-filled year of creativity, plenty of new product development and the extension of EM-N8 in Shanghai and Beijing.

For more information on EM-N8’s bespoke services, please contact Quintessentially.