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Posts Tagged ‘Alexander McQueen’

McQueen’s Shoe Sculptures

Thursday, March 10th, 2011

There has long been an indivisible connection between fashion and art; both follow trends, pass comment on the state of society and speak ostensibly of riches and the high life.

Today, the line between these convergent worlds is more blurred than ever. Modern art edges towards belonging on the runway, while ambitious catwalk creations could equally jostle for position in the world’s finest galleries.

Shoe design undergoes experiencing revolution after revolution – none more so than at Alexander McQueen. Given the tragedy surrounding the unexpected death of Lee McQueen in February 2010, the eponymous designer’s final collection of outrageously ostentatious 10-inch platform creations, pushing the boundaries of footwear to the extreme, have almost paled into insignificance.

These wonders took fashion by storm; almost alien in appearance, they were bedecked in everything from rich jewels and animal hides and should have belonged to the mythical creatures and mermaids of the imagination. But that was the beauty of McQueen: unfalteringly ambitious and unfazed by the boundaries of normal logic.

Needless to say, McQueen’s successor and right-hand woman, Sarah Burton, had more than a lot to live up to with her Spring/Summer 2011 collection. Her latest footwear creations undoubtedly put her own spin on McQueen’s ambitious legacy.

Elegant spring foliage defies the need for heels; leaves gently intertwine as though they’ve just been plucked from a spring tree, seamlessly linking together and flowing as they wish. Handcrafted, life-size butterflies perch effortlessly on beautifully thin straps, recalling that precious moment when a delicate creature comes to rest for a moment, before flying onwards and upwards in the next. Other designs are covered by dense feathers, with contrasting colours that blend with a natural ease and demonstrate an unprecedented level of expert craftsmanship – each pair a work of art in their own right.

At £2,300 a pop, these wondrous creations have sculpture-like prices to match their status as paragons of design; that these are an once-in-a-lifetime investment is a given. What remains is a decision: to turn your toes into a work of art – for these are perfectly wearable – or to lovingly admire them from afar. Either way, there’s no way in hell these beauties will stay hidden in a dusty shoe-box for long.

www.alexandermcqueen.com

GSK Contemporary – Aware: Art Fashion Identity

Thursday, December 9th, 2010

There seems to be a sense of snobbery about fashion that it’s always skin deep and never art in its own right. The curators of the ‘Aware’ exhibition have highlighted the interchangeability of fashion and art and have come up with what might be described as the thinking person’s wardrobe.

Critics have suggested that this forced marriage of fashion and art is a contrived attempt to trade on the fact that more people read fashion magazines than go to art galleries. This may well be true, but it didn’t stop me going down to get up close and personal with some Alexander MacQueen.

As an unashamed fashion lover I was pleased to see that I recognised the names of some of the artists as well as the designers, albeit this is probably due to their celebrity rather than their artistic credentials. Ironically it was the pieces created by artists that I deemed the most wearable. A cape adorned with eyes by famed eccentric Grayson Perry was a lot closer to ready to wear than a dress constructed from wood by Yoshi Yamamoto.

Standout pieces include a dress by Susie Macmurray, which from a distance sparkles with beguiling seduction only to reveal itself to be made from sharp needles upon closer inspection. A highlight was a chance to view a red, lace, veiled dress from Alexander McQueen’s Joan collection. His 1998 show is was a landmark in fashion history and looked completely at home being displayed as art.

Fashion fans will be delighted by the exhibition and sceptics will be pleasantly surprised. Never has art been more in fashion and the marriage of the two looks set to carry on well into the future.

‘GSK Contemporary – Aware: Art Fashion Identity’ runs until 30 January 2011 at The Royal Academy, 6 Burlington Gardens.

Lord of the Rings

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

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Shaun Leane is to jewelry what Arthur Rimbaud was to poetry, Pablo Picasso to 20th-century art, Marlon Brando to the acting world….at least, that’s what the Delphic figures of high-fashion would have you believe. Sotheby’s, London’s leading auction house, has honoured his work with the epithet ‘antiques of the future’ while Alexander McQueen considers him a virtuoso of the art-form, collaborating with him for over 15 years to create some of the most iconic pieces to ever grace the female form.

Now celebrating his company’s 10th anniversary, Shaun has twice been a winner of the UK Jewellery Designer of the year. Some of his designs are now instantly recognisable as jaw-dropping, ‘I want one of those’ signature pieces like the jewel-encrusted interlocking rings and the hard-edged silver designs that are instant show-stoppers on catwalks from Paris to Miami. Then there are the tusk-like mouthpieces, moonstone-studded crescents, enamel heart lockets sheathed in gold thorn and lily-shaped Art Nouveau rings – all born from his fascination with ‘love and pain’, macabre statements that have been noticed, appreciated and increasingly esteemed by first London and then the world’s elite.

Moving away from the darkly romantic twilight regions (the Luna collection is all luminous light and shimmering surface contour) and alighting on lighter, more traditional shores, his latest offering is inspired by Japanese fairytales and features dazzling white and crimson flowers on delicate coils of silver branch. The magnum opus of the ‘Cherry Blossom’ collection is his own personal favourite, a modern-day hieroglyph of three cherry blossoms in different stages of bloom. Right now his muse is the tailored suit and navy patent shoe – how he can evoke love and pain from that couplet is anyone’s guess.

New Shaun Leane collections include: Aurora, Gypsy Moth, Luna, Cherry Blossom and Sabre. For more information and to view, visit www.shaunleane.com.

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