Clerkenwell has an eclectic and acclaimed selection of restaurants and bars, but what it lacked was a combination of steakhouse, seafood and cocktail bar. Now, the new Jonathan Downey venue Redhook, opening on the site of the unsuccessful brasserie St Germain has combined all three, to highly enjoyable effect. Whether you want to come in here for one of the impressive range of cocktails or a more substantial meal, you know that you’re going to be treated to an impressive selection of great cooking and superb, genuinely friendly service.
Things kick off with an array of champagne cocktails, of which the finely honed bellini and the ever-enjoyable Black Velvet are two of the highlights. It’s a pleasure to be able to have these with the reasonably priced range of oysters, which come either as natural with shallot vinegar or grilled with Parmesan – the latter is a suitably decadent treat.
This then leads into an impressive selection of seafood served in numerous different ways. If you like your scallops roasted you can have them with pork belly, or if you prefer them seared they come triumphantly festooned with chorizo and red pepper. If you’re more into king prawns, then they can be warm grilled, tea-smoked (intriguing) or flame-grilled with chilli. If lobster is what floats your diving boat, then have it steamed, broiled or as a thermidor, in a variety of different sizes. For the indecisive, this could be a nightmare; for the rest of us, it’s a relief.
If anything, the comparatively restrained choice of steaks is almost a relief as it doesn’t force you to go through such a tortuous decision. Rib-eye is the traditionalist’s choice, a NY striploin an option for the connoisseur, and a 500g T-bone or a rib of beef for 2 to share will ensure that every carnivore red in tooth and claw is sated. Desserts are appropriately gooey – a knickerbocker glory with chocolate brownie pieces is one of the best I’ve ever had. The copious wine list offers a decent selection by the wine and carafe, and the more than helpful staff are happy to give friendly advice on what the right match for your meal is.
Redhook isn’t trying to offer a haute cuisine experience, but a fun, unpretentious place to come with your friends, on a relaxed date or just a chance to have some delicious food in pleasant surroundings. To this end, it’s a great success.
89 Turnmill Street, London EC1. www.redhooklondon.co.uk
