Covent Garden is, surprisingly, a bit short on the kind of decent yet unpretentious places that one can pop into pre or post theatre or opera to get a meal that’s not going to break the bank but offers something altogether different to your usual chain experience. Thus, the advent of the Opera Tavern, from the people behind the much-acclaimed Salt Yard and Dehesa, was welcomed with open arms by locals and visitors alike. As with its two predecessors, it offers high-quality Spanish fare in a buzzy, fun atmosphere at sensible and affordable prices.
The difference is that, if you’re the kind of person who groans at the concept of a restaurant where the vibe is sangria and ‘Hola!’, then this is going to be an extremely pleasant relief, offering the kind of nuanced cool that NY has been doing brilliantly for years but has caught on much less here than it should have done. Downstairs is a no-reservations tapas bar, whereas upstairs is a (slightly) more formal restaurant, which takes bookings. Both were heaving on a recent Friday night visit.
The copious menu offers a range of, essentially, upmarket bar snacks and tapas-sized versions of main courses. Of the former, the not particularly Spanish Scotch eggs are a highlight, with rich, flavoursome pork complemented beautifully by the perfectly cooked egg. This is easily comparable to my two favourite Scotch eggs in London, at Highgate’s Bull and Last and from the excellent butcher The Ginger Pig. Another highlight is a moreish miniature burger made up of Iberico pork and foie gras. A decadent delight, its small form belies the fabulous, melt-in-mouth taste that this offers. My companion, a girl not unacquainted with the finer things in life, promptly pronounced this her favourite dish – Ever.
Sound though this particular value judgement may or may not prove to be, the slightly larger plates offered a riot of taste and flavor. Crispy squid and sea purslane with aioli is a welcome change from the carnivorous repast, tasting faintly Oriental but without any greasiness or fattiness. I often regard belly of pork as a ‘control’ dish in restaurants – if they get it right, chances are that the rest of the menu will work as well – and this one was a delectable example, with cannellini beans bringing out the rich taste. All of this was ably complimented by a full, rich bottle of Tempranillo.
The Opera Tavern isn’t attempting to offer anything experimental or boundary-pushing. What the highly accomplished chefs, and the charming and helpful staff do is to make this the highest form of comfort food. You will leave, wallet not appreciably lighter, with a happy smile on your face and a desire to go back there in the very near future.
23 Catherine Street, WC2. www.operatavern.co.uk
