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Posts Tagged ‘five star hotels’

Marylebone’s Railway Hotel

Thursday, July 7th, 2011

If you’ve ever been to LA, you may have visited the Chateau Marmont. In it, there’s a large balconied suite overlooking a garden restaurant. It’s the best room in the house, and if you haven’t been, you really should. If you’ve got a lot of work to do, you can stay for month-long swathes at a time, and accomplish pretty much anything. But probably, between sunning yourself at the pool with Keith Richards or chatting with very chatty American ingénues in the lobby, you won’t get much done.

You can have your own personal cook, and room service at 5am when you’re still up and and staring at the first rays over Sunset Boulevard. Everyone is friendly (they have to be), and there’s a sense that by staying there, you’re sharing in the history of something great, and by association are pretty damn cool to boot. The way Francis Ford Coppola is. Or Billy Wilder. Or Grace Kelly.

Now maybe, hopefully, and most scrupulously, you might have the same feeling when walking out of the lobby and into the eight-storey atrium of The Landmark London.

It was evening, and all of the lights came down to me from the balcony where a gentleman in white tie (he looked like George Clooney in the Martini ad) stood smiling at the world beneath his very smug fingertips.

I left the girlfriend who hadn’t showed for our date and went up to see what all the fuss was about. Now, you ask me about rooms at the Marmont, and I will say they ‘embrace the entire history of early Californian architecture, though the ambience today is distinctly mid-century romantic…’ or something like. At The Landmark, it’s all 21st century minimalism – ‘a nice joint, very therapeutic… no nasty surprises, which is most important…’ and carry on is such manner. It has all the marks of a five star ‘sumptous stay’; the ihome system, Nespresso machine, flat screen tvs, free Wifi, comfortable sofa, minimalist frescoes, and just enough light to flick a copy of Spectator or Conde Nast while my date is shown to a table beneath a swaying palm. I wish they had kept the horse-drawn carriage verve of the scene playing out downstairs. But it does do a good grooming kit in the sizeable bathroom – something the Chateau never quite got right.

But look, when you come here, come for a glass of Taittinger Rosé Champagne, the Vanilla crème brûlée, and the music in the Winter Garden. I mean it. You won’t want for anything more. I was in the Maldives last week, and I sat on the rocks staring at the pure, pure water, green like absinthe, and knew that such a moment was supposed to be perfect. But it wasn’t, as I had a melody of ridiculous requests that I wanted to make of the bar tender behind me, who ironically seemed to be having that perfect moment himself. But Mozart and Bach plucked on a harpsichord is most pleasing to the ear, and distract one from the compulsion to want oneself into a stupor; you are free to eat the Casterbridge beef without caring too much about the wild truffle sauce that accompanies it. Still, if you’re going to really go for it, have the Twice baked soufflé followed by the rack of lamb. She did, and she was very happy with it.

But listen, Sunset Boulevard or Marylebone Station – it often comes down to one dialectic. Do they have it in them to make you feel delightfully ordinary (if you aren’t), and yet somehow incredibly significant (we all are)? Could they make a film about you here, one where you ended up lying in a massive bath in a massive white marble bathroom, enswathed in Dom Perignon a la Dennis Hopper and a subtle smirk pasted across your well groomed face?

Marylebone Haunt The Landmark is a stayer.

The Landmark London offers 51 suites out of the 300 bedrooms available.

222 Marylebone Road, London NW1 6JQ,

Tel : +44 (0) 20 7631 8000

La Mamounia

Thursday, August 19th, 2010

Morocco and, in particular, Marrakech, have long been top of my seafaring wish list. India melted me with its colour, Thailand with its flavours and much of Europe with its sunsets, but something about this North African nation seemed to offer a blend of all the above: exuberant cuisine, eclectic old-world architecture and a sensory explosion, a veritable whirlwind of colours, and smells, and sights that mist over many unfamiliar sounds.

I may be a lady with a taste for the finer things in life, but I challenge even the happiest of happy-campers to resist the opulence, grace and subtle decadence that is hotel La Mamounia. A friend recently told me that an auction of Mamounia furniture took place in Marrakech just prior to my visit. What a shame that I missed it; I would have parted with quite a few hard earned notes to bring home just a little taster of what I found inside.

Antiques-hunter Jacques Garcia is credited with giving the hotel its perfect blend of “Arabo-Andalusian” old-world charm. This, and his eye for other one-off objets d’art is what makes La Mamounia so unique, and so unlike any other hotel I’ve been to. Gilded, gold and beautifully ornate hallways carry the eyes before they are caught by gigantic lanterns which swing seductively outside. The bedrooms are full of such hedonistic bliss that I wanted to move in, and I was particularly taken with the views from my terrace across those perfectly manicured gardens, bursting with century old olive trees and the Bougainvillea that sprayed a fragrant perfume across the elegant walls. Since the 1700s, when the Alaouite sultan, Sidi Mohamed ben Abdellah, offered each of his sons a domain as a wedding present, the gardens have been filled with festive music and sighs of romance. A stroll here is all it takes to transport the imagination back to those hot, heady days when lilac wine flowed here like water.

The health benefits makes the stay worth it alone. Most spas in Morocco offer the traditional “Hammam” treatment, and La Mamounia is no exception. A sort of Moroccan steam bath/massage, one is exfoliated from head to toe, and the skin bursts with that clear, clean sensation before the other effects kick in and your mind relaxes and casts-off any unwanted excess. The Hammam experience is only heightened by the pureness outside, and if you follow it with a full body massage, you are left quite a different person. One day, two day and weekly spa passes are available here, and there are wellness treatments and a beauty parlour so you don’t miss a trick.

A breakfast of fresh fruit by the large outdoor pool is a wonderful way to start the day, and it is here that you spend those tranquil and peaceful few moments before stepping out into the chaos of Marrakech’s inner city; and chaos is good when you can escape it, and even better when the chaos is fun and enlivening, and the escape is full of tranquility and me-time, at the start and end of the day, when the rising sun and the moon give pause for thought.

La Mamounia was a winner in the 2010 travel awards. The renovations may have been costly but they were well worth it. This is Bedouin chic at its best. If only I’d made it to that furniture auction…

La Mamounia
Avenue Bab Jdid, Marrakech
www.mamounia.com

A Rebel’s Sanctuary

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

Hotel 4/5
Restaurant 5/5

Sanctum Soho is a pious affair for rock gods and movie stars. Or it’s a rebel’s lair, or one of those half-remembered dreams, depending on your state of mind. Launched by Mark Fuller of Iron Maiden fame, they’ve kitted out the rooms with so much boho love that trashing them would be like taking a bat to a limited edition Doors 7 inch. But I haven’t got to room 307 yet, with its many-mirrored columns and glass beaded wallpaper, pale pinks and satiny embers on the walls…

7.00pm. There is a Catholic sanctuary next door, and they honoured it when they put up those large gold letters at 20 Warwick Street. The coupling of Sanctum and Soho does wonderful things to the mind before you really know what you’re getting. You think of one of those chirpy Vegas haunts where love-struck Romeo’s get married. I look over my shoulder, and the girl who’s coming in with me is neither love struck, nor in need of a shiny rock. But I’ve promised her good food, and I’ve already handed out one too many compliments.

Daliesque paintings on the walls make my eyes reel as I pull her right into Restaurant No.20. It’s a phantasmagoria of crocodile-skin and slivers of purple glass with the whole bar reflected against bronze-gold leather banquettes. Dinner will be a healthy dose of fine art; the plates of veal and duck, the treacle tart and rose champagne are laid out on veneer tables, and one laughing Blonde applies lipstick as a rather stiff, sulky rock-god swills his glass. But dinners at Eight, and it’s only 7.23.

We had just been to see Nolan’s new movie, Inception. Time was in my mind, and time seemed to slow as we accelerated up to the roof garden on the Fifth. ‘You mustn’t be afraid to dream a little bigger, darling’ I say after considering an aperitif at dusk with a cigar and a copy of Le Monde.

This is first and foremost London’s last sanctuary for smokers, looking out over Soho the way I looked out through the mists of the Neva from the Hotel De L’Europe in Petersburg. The smoke curls through the cigar lounge, and rises above the al fresco Jacuzzi where I didn’t see Al Pacino shouting at the Plasma TV. But I did see some surreal black and white footage of some Nuns, and we ordered something dark in a glass, and I realized that positive emotion trumps negative emotion every time. It’s better to breathe oxygen than carbon monoxide – but that’s why the plants are there.

8:22. We order our starters. Baby Spinach and Cashel Blue Cheese Salad, Charcuteri Balsamic Red Onions and Walnuts; mid price range. Seriously – five out of five, or Helen of Troy to Agamemnon’s Clytemnestra –  such is how I compare the Redhead by my side with a girl I saw in the Roof Garden. The Redhead goes for Foie Gras Terrine and Grape Chutney. She is disappointed and leaves most of it. We don’t talk about it, but her glass of rose – Sancerre, La Croix 2008 – is empty, and our Sommelier/waitress looks upset when she fills it up. After trying the 30day Sirloin, my instincts heighten and I realize that the Redhead is smiling at the Barbary Duck Breast, and the Confit Duck Tortolloni has stuck itself between her teeth. High-five then, and a glowing review, especially after our stomachs are lined all pink and creamy with strawberry trifle. First one I ever tasted, and I’ll be damned if they didn’t put a bit of Rockafella JD in it, just to keep us neat.

9.40. Time ticking on and the night-manager Angelo shows us his best suite. It’s got a circular bed that Joss Stone slept in. Here’s the trick: iPod docks and soundproofed walls so you can leather the speakers. Wii consoles, rain showers, guitar amps, stand-alone baths with magic curtains; and he tells us that for no extra charge, a figure resembling a monk from next door will knock on your door at any hour you wish and shake up a Martini. It sounded absurd when he said it so nonchalantly-like, and then turned on his heels and we flew down the elevator shaft into a room full of bright blue armchairs and a monster cinema-screen on the wall. ‘They take private bookings… worked here a lot during the world cup’ he was saying, but Angelo suddenly reminded me of someone I met on holiday once. He had the same courteous smile, and the way he lifted his eyebrows and the way his eyes sparked like the bar cabinet behind him…

I waited for the dream to collapse; I always thought the Redhead was too good to be true…

I didn’t have that aperitif the next morning; the paper was in English; there was no swaggering out of the room of shimmering mirrors like Travolta (though I unconsciously quaffed my hair up). It was 11.38, and before I left, I spun a coin on the table, just to check I wasn’t still dreaming.

The Redhead wasn’t there anymore, and on the table, a silver box contained fragrant roses…

For reservations, please go to www.sanctumsoho.com.

20 Warwick Street, Soho, London W1B 5NF

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