Le Bouchon Breton in Spitalfields has attracted a great deal of attention for its dedication to maintaining a traditional French brasserie feel, even in the slightly incongruous settings of Old Spitalfields market. The cuisine is excellent, with head chef Olivier Ripert’s attention to detail ensuring that the favourite dishes such as steak and seafood are superbly cooked and presented, and the wine list is justly famous for its variety, depth and supply of excellent vintages.
Something particularly exciting that the restaurant is doing throughout November and December is its ‘Foie Gras Festival’. Foie gras is a food that splits opinion; some people love it for the exquisite, buttery taste, whereas others condemn it for what could be seen as cruelty to the geese that produce it. Nevertheless, on an aesthetic level, there’s no denying that it can be a marvellous part of a decadent meal, and so the various specials that Olivier has come up with are truly something impressive.
The foie gras brioche – effectively a very upmarket, and utterly delicious, sausage roll – is talking-point ostentation, but for my money an even better dish is ‘tagliatelle de girolles avec foie gras poele’, a beautifully simple marriage between soft tagliatelle, velvety foie gras and succulent girolle mushrooms, which, when paired with a glass of the premier cru Rully, becomes something utterly exquisite. Make plans to visit soon – you won’t regret it.
1st floor, 8 Horner Square, Old Spitalfields Market E1. www.lebouchon.co.uk
