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Posts Tagged ‘food’

Christopher’s American Bar and Grill

Tuesday, January 4th, 2011

“Would you like a drink in our Martini Bar before dinner, sir?” This was my greeting at Christopher’s American Bar and Grill, and, after a lifetime of exams, I can tell you it’s possibly the easiest question I’ve ever faced.

The bar is busy but not crowded and the murmur of satisfied customers accompanies the excellent cocktail menu. As the name suggests, martinis take centre stage in this elegant bar with tradition sitting comfortably alongside contemporary versions developed by the staff.

The Martini Bar serves food far above stereotypical bar snacks, where perfectly seared and blackened tuna with an intense wasabi kick replace the humble pork scratching. Above the bar is the opulent dining room, reached via an ornate spiraling stone staircase.

Christopher’s has always had a reputation as the preferred destination for high-flying journalists and this hasn’t changed – walking through the busy room, my eyes momentarily settled on a notorious former tabloid editor enjoying his steak.

The food of head chef, and former Olympic triple-jumper, Francis Agyepong triumphs throughout. The starters include a deftly executed duck confit with tamarind sauce, whilst the five-spice belly of pork is exquisitely tender. Such excellence is nicely complimented by a bottle of Chateau Cissac from the well-furnished wine list.

As is to be expected, the steaks are excellent, treated simply and cooked perfectly so that the natural flavour of the high quality meat shines through. The sides tell a similar story, complimenting rather than competing and so leaving the steak as the star of the show.

The puddings are an all-American treat. From traditional New York cheesecake, to pecan pie, they are high-end adaptations of the desserts American films have made us so familiar with.

The restaurant’s attention to detail is evident across the board – from the service, attentive but not intrusive, to the delicious chocolates that accompany the end of the meal.

Christopher’s is a rare thing, a restaurant specialising in steak which steers clear of clichés, and an American-inspired menu which avoids degenerating into a theme park – I will most definitely be back.

The World of Marcus Wareing

Monday, November 1st, 2010

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Revolution at The Dorchester

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

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Britain’s reputation for good food is precarious. The British traditionally do ‘words’ a lot better. Ask for sauce on your meat, and you often get two options; “red” or “brown “ – both options awake with poetic possibility, insinuating something beyond the reaches of the palate.

It’s precisely the elusive quality of our food that makes it so charming, and on frequent occasion, spectacularly unpopular. But, hail The Dorchester for daring to flirt with this reputation, and for their aspirations towards the beautiful, in both word and the meaning conveyed therein. Ex-Rhodes W1 chef Brian Hughson is at one with this hidden destiny, and his libido for all things British simmers brilliantly against a backdrop of checkerboard Scottish upholstery, lampshades, and Gibsonesque warlord murals.

Put simply – The Grill at The Dorchester has the punters raving. The Chef’s masterclass demonstration is an a la carte menu that has the capital’s bon-vivant’s scuffling along the marble-paved cloisters before flinging themselves down in front of Hughson’s elegantly seared scallops with sardine ‘pie’ and cauliflower purée. His signature dish is a finger up at all the European promiscuity going on outside. Aside from this inciting incident, go there for the following major chord combinations: Carpaccio of Angus beef with steak tartare, gremolata and sourdough croutes; sea bream with garlic and shallot confit, clam vinaigrette and poached Scottish langoustines; and melt-in-the-mouth pork belly with electric crackling, pork fillet and tulle-licks of mash.

With a heaving dining room even in January, an ambience singularly fresh and unimposing – business schmoozing and high-profile luncheons are refreshingly bohemian in nature – and a wine-list heart-achingly fashioned by wine master Christian Stivert, we shove a fork in the amuse bouche of asparagus velouté and foam…and groan – ‘if food be the music of love, play on’.

For more information, and to book, please visit www.thedorchester.com/the-grill

Mexican Fantasy in Camberwell

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

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Unless you’ve been living underground for the past few months, you will have noticed the recent explosion in Hispanic fever that’s hit London. First there was master chef winner Thomasina Miers’ Wahaca, paying homage to Mexican street food, swiftly followed by high street chains’ Tortilla and Mexicali.

Tapping into this demand for wide-smiled Latino escapism – so craved by a nation continually rained upon – is Camberwell’s very own Mexican adventure; Church St Hotel. Located just off Camberwell Green (as close as you’ll get to that fiery Mexican soil without leaving England), the rooms are painted in vibrant reds and deep hues of blue with authentic heavy weave rugs on the beds and enchantingly tiled bathrooms. The dearth of room space and amenities are more than made up for by the unostentatious charm of the place, and its diminutive size lends it the appearance of an authentic casita.

There’s a communal breakfast room/recently-turned second dining room. This renaissance is due to the ever-increasing demand for the restaurant’s Spanish-Mexican cuisine. It is here that you might spend hours in reflection on large sumptuous leather sofas, sipping cocktails from the bar as you dip back and forth into a collection of DVDs guaranteed to keep even the most ardent film buff occupied.

The restaurant itself, Angels and Gypsies, offers an extensive selection of traditional Spanish dishes, all of a tapas size so you have the chance to try more than one dish. The jamón ibérico was perfectly salted and oiled, and the sirloin steak with quail’s eggs and black beans was decidedly hard to share!

With attentive staff, and superbly priced food, it’s a charming little trip south of the river.

For more information, please go to www.churchstreethotel.com.

Fat Sam’s

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

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Sam’s Brasserie is a fairly unassuming building, boasting swish industrial décor that is quite something to behold. The inside, whilst brimming with punters, feels anything but crowded, and if you prefer to dine without catching an earful of the couple sitting next to you, you’ll love Sam’s.

Ostensibly, the residents of Chiswick have more friends than we do in Central London, as intimated by several massive ten-seater dining tables (or perhaps they have more cause for celebration), the staff are friendly without being overbearing, and I was put at ease almost instantaneously with a Bloody Mary that could put hair of the chest of a snail. The food is typically an English affair, and it’s simplicity of touch gives it child-friendly appeal without that ‘balloon and crayons’ aspect of Tootsies.

I start with a commendable salt and pepper squid – perfect in texture and seasoning and generously portioned, whilst my rather moderate brother opts for the butternut squash soup. Giving women a bad name, I insist on swapping half-way through in order to fully appreciate as many plates as possible.  We follow with calves liver for him, and steak for me. Both are winners, but neither particularly challenging. I decide it’s time to raise the benchmark for pudding, and we order the banana crème brûlée with walnut shortbread.  I’m not disappointed, and the dish works superbly, resisting that cloying taste of overly-saccharine bananas.

Verdict – Simple but accomplished dishes, with a relaxed ‘Sunday brunch’ feel.

The restaurant also offers evenings of jazz and cookery courses.

www.samsbrasserie.co.uk

Taking the bull by the horns

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

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Last night I found myself dining out in Chelsea’s Cambio de Tercio. I’d been to the restaurant as a child and the memory of that salty jamon iberico had lingered many a year later, so it was with great delight that I revisited London’s most successful Iberican restaurant.

And I wasn’t disappointed. The fare was the tastiest and most memorable I’ve had in several years, paying homage to traditional Spanish methods with nods to that most tantalising of culinary techniques; molecular gastronomy. We started with a dainty portion of delicately spiced salmon tartar topped with a tiny portion of smoked ice cream! When the two combine, the authentic flavour of smoked salmon is the final result – and ludicrously tasty at that. Paying homage to the more conventional Spanish menu, we were then presented with patatas bravas and jamon croquettes, both of which melted in the mouth and were just the right size to excite the appetite for the following guinea fowl and monkfish courses.  We finished with a white chocolate mousse with passion fruit and home made petit-fours.

I insist that proprietor, Abel Lusa, join us for pudding. Complementing him on a menu perfectly balanced between tradition and creative flair, he tells me that one in ten customers turn their nose up at the smoked salmon. “It’s too much for them”, he says, “but I would rather risk it for the sake of that remaining nine. There’s no fun in going to a restaurant and paying to have the same old steak and chips every time.”

Whether it was the wine, or the familial atmosphere, I found myself kissing the owner on both cheeks as we left.

For more information, please visit www.cambiodetercio.co.uk.

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