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Return of Petrus

Thursday, April 15th, 2010

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After a notable absence on the scene following Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing’s high profile rift, the wait is over and Petrus has returned with a very tasty identity all its own.

Although a huge contrast from the previous incarnations at The Berkeley and St James, the interior certainly gives the room a distinct look while the gorgeous wine cellar in the centre of the room adds a sophisticated edge with the promise of many a sweet sipping to come.

The menu is highly original. Starting out with pressed foie gras with confit and smoked duck really opened up the taste buds for the pear carpaccio and cardamom caramel – deliciously rich and smooth with a sublimely fresh aftertaste. Then came the roast lobster tail with braised pork belly, baby gem lettuce and cider sauce, quite outstanding on anyone’s palette. The bitter chocolate beer parfait and puffed wheat was a superbly refreshing finish, though spoiled somewhat by my guests choice – chocolate sphere with milk ice cream and honeycomb – so decadently tempting that I couldn’t help feeling jealous.

Unable to sample the house vintage this time round, we had built up enough thirst to taste a satisfying array of wines with a boatload of super-expressive flavours. Service was remarkably smooth for the first night and applauds go to director Jean-Philippe for keeping tabs on my Visa. A set price of GBP 55 per head for three courses will ensure that the crowds keep flocking to Petrus.

For more information, please see www.gordonramsay.com/petrus.

Take a Butchers

Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010

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The name Stow on the Wold may already ring a bell, due to its status as home of Lady Bamford’s flagship Daylesford store, as well as its reputation as an iconic English small town.

Now, there is a new reason to head to the sleepy hills of the Cotswolds. The Old Butchers restaurant is a carnivores’ dream and the wonderful thing about this place is that the flair and enthusiasm of the chef speaks for itself.A daily-changing menu offers succulent delights like mutton broth with a bread dumpling, lamb shank with a pomegranate and red wine reduction and oxtail ravioli.

Head chef and proprietor, Pete Robinson, who runs the restaurant with his wife, Louise, believes in using seasonal and local ingredients, so the menu frequently features additions such as ‘Steve’s kurly kale’ or ‘Alan’s new potatoes’, brought in by the locals. In the summer, the restaurant offers its homemade bread in exchange for offerings from the customers’ gardens to use within the kitchen.

Pete was head chef at the luxurious Cornish retreat Hotel Tresanton before opening The Old Butchers in July 05, and its reputation has been steadily growing ever since. It’s no surprise, as the restaurant pays such homage to traditional English delights, it’s impossible to resist pudding. Even my steely will dissolved when I was confronted with the Yorkshire parkin with Horlicks ice cream.

There are a number of hotels in the area if you can’t face the slog back to London and Stow itself is a charming little town, where you can quite happily pass a Sunday afternoon. Why not spend a night at the Lords of the Manor hotel, which boasts three AA rosettes and an unbeatable country setting.

For more information see www.theoldbutchers.com

Alex Monroe at EC One

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

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To ensure that your loved one turns sufficiently dewy-eyed and weak at the knees this Valentine’s Day, why not pay a visit to EC One jewellers to sample the sumptuously beatific delights of the jeweller Alex Monroe?  It isn’t hard to guess where the British designer takes his inspiration from. All of his delicately crafted pieces are closely mirrored on nature and the English countryside, from solid gold bumblebee pendants to intricate rings fashioned on twine and buttercups. His pieces are elegant, charming, and ultimately timeless.

Having trained at Sir John Cass School Of Art in London, Monroe established his first store in 1986, and now supplies worldwide, with over 100 stores in Britain and Ireland alone, including the V&A museum and Liberty of London. Monroe receives worldwide acclaim for his craft – as Liberty comment, “The 20:20 collection, exclusive at Liberty, reworks the best of Alex Monroe’s classic heritage designs. His feminine and quirky collections have long been a favourite with Liberty customers.”

EC One has two stores, one located in Notting Hill on Ladbury Road, the other, in Exmouth market. I favour the latter, if for no other reason than its location directly opposite two equally irresistible restaurants; the highly successful Moro (brainchild of Sam and Sam Cook, and winner of the coveted title of Observer Best Restaurant Award 2009), and Medcalf, for those more inclined to traditional hearty British cuisine.

For more information visit www.alexmonroe.com

Is West Stoke House England’s best-kept secret?

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

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One laudatory review of Rowland and Mary Leach’s West Stoke House commented ‘to describe this as a bed and breakfast would be like calling Harvey Nichols a clothes shop’. This is an entirely accurate statement, but doesn’t really begin to come close as to why West Stoke House is such a splendid place to visit.

Located a couple of miles away from Chichester, the house itself is a beautiful Georgian mansion that the Leaches have decorated in exquisitely tasteful style throughout, with the eight comfortable and well-appointed rooms all boasting nice touches such as antique writing desks and superbly relaxing leather armchairs, as well as large and luxurious beds. If you never ventured out of your room during your stay, it would still be easy to recommend the hotel, but you’d be missing out if you didn’t take advantage of the superb Michelin-starred restaurant, which boasts superlative cooking from Darren Brown, a former chef at the Lanesborough.

Some of the highlights on the short, well-constructed a la carte include crab and lobster lasagne, remarkably gamey, rich venison and some exemplary foie gras. The wine list offers a number of well-chosen bottles at sensible prices, including a stunning 2007 Marcel Langoux Pouilly Fume and an equally good 2007 Blind River Pinot Noir from Marlborough. The staff are charming and ever-willing to please – none of the usual stuffy formality here – and you are all but guaranteed a wonderful time here.

West Stoke, Chichester PO18 9BN. www.weststokehouse.co.uk

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