If you’re going to name a restaurant after someone, your first thought might be to go for a great historical or national figure – ‘The Shakespeare’ or ‘The Lord Nelson’ perhaps. Calling it after a fictional character best known for his impertinent letters to the great and the good of the 1980s might seem a tad eccentric, but Willie Donaldson’s timeless comic creation, wet fishseller Henry Root, has inspired an excellent Chelsea neighbourhood restaurant.
The first thing that comes to mind upon looking at the comprehensive menu is that it’s not a million miles away from the small plate philosophy of Covent Garden’s Terroirs, with selections including a must-try charcuterie board with all the bells and whistles including meaty black pudding, salami and an umissable terrine. Seared scallops with a cauliflower and raisin dressing are a pleasantly unusual combination, and larger plates of hanger steak with bone marrow fritter and braised loin of pork are every bit as carnivorously satisfying as you would hope. A cheese course offers both French and English varieties, and the sweet-toothed can take succour in rhubarb and hazelnut crumble, amongst other delights. It should be noted that, like Terroirs, all of this is exceptionally keenly priced; you are unlikely to end up spending more here than you would spend in your local gastropub.
One of the other joys here is the copious wine list. Organised by the ever-charming Finn (ask him if you want to know more about Willie Donaldson, he’s a mine of information), there are numerous delectable options available by the glass, meaning that one can get a really broad look at the oenophilic delights on offer. From a sparkling Loire wine – much fresher and more dynamic than many champagnes – to a rather wonderful Gewurtztraminer, along with much else beside, this is a grand tour through small but perfectly formed producers.
There are already murmurings among the cognoscenti that this is going to become one of the places to see and be seen in in 2011. Let’s just hope that these high standards are maintained, and this could well be an unmistakable hit.
