Like many English towns, Stratford upon Avon seems to have two separate identities. On a bright summer’s day, you can walk down the river, past Holy Trinity Church (where the town’s most famous son, Shakespeare, is buried) and the new Royal Shakespeare Theatre, and think it quite the most beautiful place in England. If, however, you find yourself scurrying down the medieval streets on a wet evening, then altogether darker thoughts come to mind, and one imagines oneself in a nest of villains something akin to one of the more bloody recesses of Shakespeare’s plays. As studies in contrasts go, it’s really quite impressive.
The most impressive thing to happen to the Shakespeare industry in recent years has been the much-heralded rebuilding and reopening of the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. Occupying a prime position close to the river, it’s home to two different auditoria, the main one and the Swan Theatre. The purpose of the Swan is to show Elizabethan and new drama, whereas the main auditorium specialises in high-quality productions with seriously classy acting and directing. On our visit, Patrick Stewart was starring in Rupert Goold’s much-heralded Las Vegas-set staging of The Merchant Of Venice, which proves that Stratford can still stage some of the world’s best productions in the 21st century.
A visit to the theatre itself, even if you’re not seeing a play, is pretty much obligatory. For starters (sic), the gorgeous new Rooftop Restaurant, situated at the top of the building, offers panoramic views over Stratford, something matched by the food. A sensibly priced and speedily served lunchtime and pre-theatre menu might offer such delights as old spot medallion or Somerset brie and tomato tart for mains, followed by a delicious ginger and pear parkin. You can rely on the wine being good as well; it’s supplied by Berry Bros and Rudd, meaning that even the house selections are head and shoulders above what you’d normally expect.
Of course, a new theatre needs a new upmarket hotel for visitors as a suitable base, and there are few places more fitting than The Arden, a stylish boutique establishment literally opposite the theatre. Even if I never quite managed to work out which was the most logical way in and out of the hotel, there’s no denying that it offers a gorgeously comfortable stay, with well-appointed rooms and luxuriously large beds, bathrooms that are a good deal larger than anyone can reasonably expect, friendly and accommodating staff and a relaxed, intimate feel that makes this a pleasure to spend time in. It also boasts a superb establishment called The Waterside Brasserie, which offers either excellent breakfasts with local produce or equally high-class dinners that give the Rooftop a run for their pre-theatre money, or a more leisurely a la carte.
Talking of dining, serious gourmands won’t want to miss out on a visit to the Arden’s sister establishment, Mallory Court. A dozen miles up the road, it’s a gorgeous Lutyens-styled manor house with extraordinarily beautiful gardens and spacious public rooms. It’s the oak-panelled main dining room that’s the real draw for many though, with Simon Haigh’s deservedly Michelin-starred cooking offering unusual and quirky twists on French-British cuisine. Thus lunch might consist of crab bisque and ravioli to start, followed by fillet of beef with oxtail, and a sublime apple and elderflower soufflé to finish, all of which is of the absolute highest calibre. As you’d expect, the wine list is stupendous and comprehensive, but there are several very accessible and reasonably priced options by the glass.
As Shakespeare wrote, ‘Let me not to the marriage of true minds admit impediments.’ A visit to Stratford, preferably in clement and seasonable weather, is an enormous pleasure, and whether your interests are historic, culinary or cultural, there’s going to be something beguiling and enjoyable for you to appreciate here.
