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A small corner of Venice in central London?

Friday, November 6th, 2009

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This rustic Venetian style eatery has been an instant hit since its opening, and even on the weekday lunchtime when we visited the atmosphere was bordering on frenzied. After a brief wait, we ended up perched at the bar which fitted the bill perfectly, and where the frantic barman still found the time to offer us some useful advice on the menu.

The bold, simple flavours of the dishes are a mixture of recognisable Italian fare with some more unusual Venetian specialities also included, such as salt cod on polenta and cuttlefish cooked its own ink. If you’re looking for something a bit more off piste try the mackerel tartare.

The exposed brickwork decor matches the relaxed atmosphere perfectly, but you would be wrong to assume that this success has anything to do with luck. With both the front of house, Russell Norman, and chef, Tom Oldroyd, having such impressive reputations in the restaurant world you can rest assured that nothing in this establishment has been left to chance.

www.polpo.co.uk
41 Beak Street,
London, W1F 9SB

Travertine – a new restaurant that’s definitely legit

Friday, November 6th, 2009

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Fall is upon us and with that a plethora of new restaurant openings; some large, some small, some very good, and some awfully bad. This week, thankfully, I had a great experience at the new Italian restaurant Travertine. It quietly opened on Kenmare St. last month after months (and months) of fighting for a liquor license. The décor is sleek and the ambiance is warm and candlelit. In a rare occurrence in the Tomasello family, my sister arrived before me and made the acquaintance of the very hospitable owner and Director of Service while sipping on a great Primitivo at the bar. Their hospitality is reflected throughout every staff encounter.

Chef Manual Trevino has a Batali pedigree, so my hopes for the food were high. Not only were they met, but they were exceeded, especially with the help of the inventive desserts of pastry chef Marisa Croce. The highlights of the meal for me were the garganelli with shiitake, brussel sprouts, browned butter and the greek yogurt pannacotta with black mission figs, prosciutto caramel, honey pepper crostini. As I would say to my friends, this place is definitely legit.

The Travertine at 19 Kenmare Street – http://www.travertinenyc.com/

Designer delights perfect for a sophisticated sweet tooth

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

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Following a highly successful venture with Christian Louboutin, the luxury Parisian patisserie, Ladurée, has joined forces with Italian fashion house Marni. This time the two brands have produced a limited edition gift box of chocolate macaroons together. The box has been decorated with flowers and polka dots, two signature symbols of the Marni brand, and particular favorites of owner, Consuleo Castiglioni. They are also offering specially customized versions of the gift set with a selection of their other delicious flavours which include Orange Blosson, Pistachio and Licorice.

Some might argue that the gold sheets which wrap the macaroons individually is a flamboyant extravagance too far, but we think this designer collaboration will make the perfect Christmas gift for the chic, the brand conscious, and of course, the chocolate lover.

Available from December 1st 2009 in Ladurée shops in Paris, London, Dublin, Tokyo and Switzerland.

www.laduree.fr
www.marni.com

See Venice and die, go to the Met and live

Friday, October 30th, 2009

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Cuisine in Venice tends towards the predictable; hideously expensive, formal and often somewhat prosaic. Therefore, it comes as a pleasure to head somewhere as ambitious and successful as the Met restaurant, where the chef, Corrado Fasolato, has used his El Bulli training to great effect.

Dishes play on traditional ideas of Italian cuisine with wit and intelligence, whether it involves using cuttlefish strips in spaghetti to create carbonara, or serving up beef cheek with horseradish ice cream. Fasolato’s cooking is never heavy with self-importance or pomposity, but instead ensures that a variety of tastes and sensations jostle with one another for effect. The service is charming and polite, ever-ready to suggest a variety of options, such as pairing dessert with some excellent rum, rather than the omnipresent vin de santo, and mention must be made of the spectacular room, which elegantly combines Renaissance portraiture with modern comforts. One of only two Michelin-starred restaurants in the city, its acclaim amongst gastronomes in the know can only increase.

Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice 30122, Italy. www.hotelmetropole.com

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