From organic clothing to local, seasonal foods, the interest in sustainable and socially-responsible products has grown immensely over the past few years. Insider sat down with Natalie Melville, founder of Melville Fine Jewellery, to discuss her new bespoke and ethical jewellery collection and find out if diamonds really are a girl’s best friend.
Q: Could you tell us a little about your background in the industry?
I received a BA (Hons) in Jewellery Design from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and have also worked alongside master craftsman and goldsmith Gerry Summers. Since setting up my bespoke fine jewellery business five years ago, I’ve designed everything from engagement rings through to gem set opera-style necklaces for clients out of my London showroom. The style of my work is very organic – I often use a lace-like carving technique.
Q: What gave you the idea to launch an ethical jewellery line?
I’d always been vigilant when it came to sourcing materials but despite increased transparency – the diamond trade has its own international regulations and standards – I felt I wasn’t able to fully reassure my clients about my supply chain.
Mining coloured gemstones, metal and diamonds requires the use of highly toxic chemicals – this is in addition to the risk of cave-ins at poorly constructed mines. This has been the driving force behind the pioneering work of the Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International and the Alliance for Responsible Mining. In February this year, they launched the world’s first Fairmined Mark which aims to bring social, environmental and economic development to artisanal and small-scale mining communities.
Melville Fine Jewellery has been awarded the Fairmined Mark and we’ll be the only brand in the Far East carrying this distinction.
Q: Where does the inspiration for your jewellery designs come from?
I’ve always had a love of literature and many of my previous pieces have been inspired by a character in a novel – I see each piece having its own personality! One piece that springs to mind is Pierrot. Known as ‘The Crying Clown’, Pierrot was a sad figure often depicted in old children’s stories. The piece I created was a 30-carat black moonstone ‘crying’ teardrop aquamarines.
Q: Could you explain a bit more about the bespoke design process – how does it work between you and the client?
Every client is different so each bespoke experience varies depending on the client’s needs. However, a traditional commission starts with a consultation – this a lovely time as I’m often trusted with someone’s ideas. Then, I’ll pull together a series of images and a selection of design renderings that can be tweaked. After, the piece is cast into gold or platinum. If gems are involved, I’ll work with the gem dealers or mines directly to ensure the right stone is selected.
Q: What are some of the most trends you’re seeing in terms of jewellery design and materials?
There’s been a resurgence of yellow gold in more contemporary incarnations. Long since relegated to quite dated designs, it’s now making a strong comeback. Diamonds are a classic that will never go out of style, but I’m seeing a more enthusiastic use of coloured gems such as rubies and emeralds as well.
Since Wallis Simpson’s stunning Cartier panther bracelet was auctioned at the end of last year, the interest in the vintage combination of onyx and diamond is definitely on the up. And naturally, following the recent engagement of Prince William to Kate Middleton with his mother’s famous sapphire ring, the popularity of sapphires has risen dramatically too.
Q: Can you tell us your plans for 2011 – and where can we expect to find Melville Fine Jewellery?
Melville Fine Jewellery will create one collection a year with the rest of the work coming through commissions. The launch date of our first exhibition is TBC but will comprise a press conference, a series of private events and a public exhibition at one of Hong Kong’s amazing galleries. At this stage, there are no plans to sell through any independent retail outlets as each piece is a one-off creation.
My studio will be by appointment only but I’m always available to see existing clients or welcome new ones at my workshop.
For more information on Melville Fine Jewellery, please contact Natalie Melville on nathalie@melvillejewellery.com.
