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Posts Tagged ‘Kensington’

Fit For An Emperor

Thursday, September 30th, 2010

If you’re looking for a truly smart and sophisticated restaurant, where you can sample some of the most innovative food to be had anywhere in London, Kensington’s Bombay Brasserie is a shoo-in for a top choice. It’s an Indian restaurant with style and exceptional food, where the clientele return time and time again for an extraordinary experience.

You certainly won’t find the usual curry house staples here. Instead, expect a splendid mix of inventive cooking and luxuriously constructed dishes from Executive Chef Prahlad Hegde. Then there’s the genuinely friendly and attentive service, making everything that much more enjoyable.

A stone’s throw from Gloucester Road, the first impression you get on walking through the bar is faint surprise at how low-key it all appears. This fleeting thought is soon replaced by the opulence of the main dining room – a grandiose high-ceilinged space where you might imagine a Raj prince holding court. This magnificence is nicely offset by the conservatory next door – more intimate in nature – and an open kitchen.

The cuisine is special from the get-go; appetisers might include Tandoori Salmon, which is simultaneously delicately flavoured and subtly powerful, or ‘khurmani ki tikki’ – apricot and potato cakes with yoghurt and tamarind chutney, a dish that might even double as dessert if you feel so inclined. Main courses are the big draw here, and certainly don’t disappoint; whether you choose the mint and coriander spiced lobster – a magnificently decadent and delicious spin on an old favourite – or finely cooked and beautifully presented lamb chops with ginger and green herbs. The wine list offers an extensive range to accompany the range of dishes on off. My guest and I opted for an excellent Louis Jadot Pinot Noir, proving a very fitting complement to the meal.

Forthcoming highlights at the restaurant (from November to March) include a series of ‘Flavour Masterclasses’, including Flavours of Divali on 5th November; the sort of food you would expect to eat inside the Royal Palaces of India (18th March) and perhaps, most enticing of all, a ‘Chilli Celebration Dinner Season’ in the second half of January, where a menu will be devoted to showcasing the ways in which chilli can add both fire and subtlety to a dish.

Courtfield Road, London SW7 www.bombaybrasserielondon.com

Le Cercle

Monday, September 6th, 2010

Le Cercle brings the best of Club Gascon’s French cooking to West London at a prime location just off Sloane Square. Set underground, Le Cercle manages to create a surprisingly airy, open plan dinning space that still achieves understated intimacy. The monthly wine pairing menu caught my eye and I had to experience an evening here for myself.

This month, the tasting compares two estates from the Gaillac district in South West France. It was Domaine Rotier vs. Domaine Causse Marines – two producers with contrasting views on winemaking. I’ve been informed that one uses only natural elements in the vineyards to develop and heighten the flavours (whilst the grape is still on the vine) whilst the other experiments in the cellar. It must be said, whatever the technique, both created exceptional vintages.

We commenced the evening with a well blended dirty martini whetting my appetite for the meal to come. The menu at Le Cercle was created to educate guests on Galliac wines meanwhile enjoying brilliantly matched cuisine. We start with a superb crab bisque topped with verbena Chantilly cream; wondrously light, a theme that would run throughout the meal. A slight change of direction on the second course: cured organic salmon, celery sorbet and cress. Undeniably the standout dish of the evening, the fish was as fresh as you can find anywhere in London while the sorbet just captured the celery; the cress was tucked away inside the salmon as not to overwhelm. It was served on a bed of delicate fennel with a dash of beetroot ketchup. The dish was served with my favourite of the two whites, the Domaine Rotier, Renaissance Blanc 2008.

Shredded leg of lamb on a bed of warm aubergine caviar and liquorice for our main course. The lamb was tender and the liquorice subtle, making its presence noted in the sauce, a lamb jus infused with Chinese five-spice. My preference of the reds was served at this point, the Domaine Causse Marines, Les Peyrouzelle 2008. The cheese course showcased a fine slice of Ossau Iraty and the dessert, listed as White Chocolate Delight, was an unimaginably victorious white chocolate foam which evaporated in the mouth. The Delight was accompanied by summer berries and a divine Domaine Causse Marines dessert wine.

My guest and I departed with new found knowledge on the previously unfamiliar Galliac wines, satisfied appetites and approving taste buds. Le Cercle runs a wine tasting dinner service the last Tuesday of the month focusing on a different wine producing region.

Le Cercle
1 Wilbraham Place
London
SW1X 9AE

Tel: 020 7901 9999

Opening Times
Lunch – 12:00 noon until 3.00 pm Tue – Sat
Dinner – 6:00 pm until 11:00 pm, Tue – Sat

Get Into The Kitchen

Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010

kitchen_main

11 Abingdon Road in Kensington has seen several restaurants come and go, but there can be little doubt that Kitchen W8 is here to stay. It’s the brainchild of Philip Howard, the genius behind the two Michelin-starred The Square, and Rebecca Mascarenhas, who set up perennial neighbourhood favourite Sonny’s in Barnes. The Square connection continues with the appointment of Mark Kempson as Head Chef, a former alumnus of Howard’s restaurant.

Opening to a blaze of publicity and acclaim last year, the restaurant has quickly established itself both as a successful neighbourhood institution and a destination venue in its own right. It isn’t at all hard to see why. The menu offers superb cooking – a starter of delicate, buttery crab ravioli was a highlight, as was a main course of red bream with chorizo – which is sensibly and unpretentiously presented and priced, meaning that visitors will be able to enjoy Michelin-quality cuisine at a fraction of the price that they might be paying in the West End.

The wine list offers lots of sensibly priced wines by the glass and small 250ml carafe – the latter’s a particularly good way of trying a couple of different kinds over the course of a meal without going overboard. The service is, as you’d expect in an operation of this calibre, both classy and friendly, without the overbearing quality that some restaurants can have. This excellent place deserves to prosper and succeed, and there’s no doubt it’s doing everything right.

11 Abingdon Road, W8. www.kitchenw8.com

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