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Posts Tagged ‘La Pergola’

When in Rome

Monday, July 5th, 2010

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“You may have the universe if I may have Italy,” espoused the Romantic operatic composer, Giueseppe Verdi. I can’t help but wonder as I take to the streets of Rome, if that was in particular reference to its capital. The untouched relics on every street corner amidst its heady, hot and breathtaking beauty, always leave me wanting more of the Eternal City. Were he alive today, Verdi would no doubt fall equally in love with the city’s sumptuous Cavalieri hotel.

Now part of the prestigious Waldorf Astoria collection, the Rome Cavalieri has been a staple of luxury in Rome for over 45 years. As I pull up in front of its 1960s symmetrical façade, I am quite taken aback by its somewhat imposing exterior, unaware at first of the treasures to be found inside. Once through its grand doors, however, I am instantly enticed by the enormity of the hotel’s private art collection in the impressive reception and outdoor pool flirting with me from behind the bar. The sweeping central staircase leads down towards an even larger collection of art and manicured gardens. I am shown to my room, a stunning, Park Avenue-sized suite designed around one of the most comfortable beds I have ever had the pleasure of sleeping in. Located on one of the hills that surrounds Rome, I’m seduced by views of the downtown area and across to St. Peter’s and The Pantheon. One cannot visit a city like Rome and spend the entire time in a hotel room, but I wonder as I lay on those soft sheets looking out at the expanse of the city – this enormous living jigsaw puzzle – how I’ll ever tear myself away! Such separation proves more difficult when I see the size of my bathtub.

A spa appointment persuades me out the door and down to the magnificent 2500 square metre Grand Spa. Carbohydrate and Carpaccio calories can be worked off within minutes at the hotel’s luxurious fitness centre, followed by any number of blissful treatments in the Grand Spa. I personally enjoyed the La Prairie caviar facial, but guests can choose from a variety of Ayurvedic treatments and more conventional offerings, such as pedicures and manicures. The spa also boasts Turkish baths, hot and cold plunge pools, four swimming pools, hydro massage and whirlpools.

While I would rarely indulge in hotel fayre whilst traveling, in this case I must insist, as I would not dare miss out on the gastronomic excellence of Chef Heinz Beck at the infamous La Pergola. The only 3 Michelin starred restaurant in the city, its accolades are easily understood. Though not a Roman native (Beck is German) he is responsible for the legendary cuisine that has put La Pergola so firmly on the international culinary map. Surprisingly, dinner is far more reasonably priced than one would expect. For the best introduction to Beck’s genius, I would highly recommend the tasting menu: Tuna Tartare served in an infusion of green tea; flaky, perfectly cooked cod; liquorice shoulder of Iberian suckling pig – just a few of the delectable dishes on offer. If you happen to visit during the warmer months, dine on the roof terrace with its panoramic views across Rome.

Brunch in the L’Uliveto Restaurant by the outdoor pool should be enjoyed the following day, with its endless feast of sumptuous Italian and International delights.

For those who want to explore the art on offer throughout the city, there really is no better starting point than the Cavalieri. An entire book could be written about the hotel’s extensive art collection, the highlight being the three Giovanni Battista Tiepolo’s that hang proudly in the hotel lobby and the Andy Warhol’s in the Penthouse suite.

Looking to explore the city itself? Cavalieri’s contact list is enviable to say the least. For a private view of the Sistine Chapel simply give them three month’s notice and they’ll take care of it for you. Private tours of Roman palaces? Why, of course. A guided tour of the Pantheon with the city’s top art historian? They will sort it out for you immediately. I was fortunate to enjoy a private tour of the Palazzo Colonna, the only palace in the city in which the family for whom it was built still resides. Forget struggling with crowds to catch a glimpse of the city’s finest destinations – put yourself in the hands of the Cavalieri’s Private Guide and you’ll waste not a second queuing…

You may have the universe, my friend, if I may have Cavalieri.

Via Alberto Cadlolo 101
00136 Rome, Italy
+39 635 091

http://www.romecavalieri.com/

http://www.romecavalieri.com/lapergola.php

Hyde Park Class

Friday, March 19th, 2010

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Heinz Beck is best known for La Pergola, his three Michelin-starred restaurant at Rome’s Cavalieri Hotel, which has attracted an apparently endless amount of acclaim and attention. His first UK venture, Apsleys at the Lanesborough Hotel, was hugely anticipated, and won a Michelin star early in 2010, confirming its reputation as one of London’s top Italian restaurants. It makes a pleasant change for a restaurant in a luxury hotel to take Italian, rather than French, cuisine as its base, although the quality of the cuisine here defies simple pigeonholing.

The first thing that strikes you entering the dining room is how richly ornate and grand it is; the impression is of continental and timeless style rather than the faint impersonality that you often get from hotel restaurants. The second impression you receive is the friendliness and charm of the staff, who seem genuinely pleased that customers  – who, after all, aren’t embarrassed for choice around the Park Lane area – have chosen to visit Apsley’s. And the third, and most vital, is the quality of the cooking.

The a la carte menu includes many of Heinz Beck’s specialities – helpfully marked with an ‘HB’ symbol – or the tasting menu offers a five or seven course overview of the kitchen’s highlights, amongst which a deliciously delicate poached lobster with avocado and tomatoes, a perfect pasta dish of red tortellini with aubergine and smoked ricotta and a tender venison course on a bed of red cabbage are just a few of the star attractions. Unusually but pleasingly, the lightness of the courses mean that the delicate cuisine never becomes overwhelming or de trop. It helps that the wine list – which includes some eye-poppingly expensive and rare vintage wines – has a very good selection by the glass that can be matched to the various dishes.

London isn’t short on top quality Italian restaurants by any means, but if you fancy trying some really innovative and exciting cooking, unafraid to take risks and innovate while remaining entirely true to its roots, there are few better places to try than Apsleys.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1. www.thelanesborough.com/apsleys

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