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Is West Stoke House England’s best-kept secret?

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

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One laudatory review of Rowland and Mary Leach’s West Stoke House commented ‘to describe this as a bed and breakfast would be like calling Harvey Nichols a clothes shop’. This is an entirely accurate statement, but doesn’t really begin to come close as to why West Stoke House is such a splendid place to visit.

Located a couple of miles away from Chichester, the house itself is a beautiful Georgian mansion that the Leaches have decorated in exquisitely tasteful style throughout, with the eight comfortable and well-appointed rooms all boasting nice touches such as antique writing desks and superbly relaxing leather armchairs, as well as large and luxurious beds. If you never ventured out of your room during your stay, it would still be easy to recommend the hotel, but you’d be missing out if you didn’t take advantage of the superb Michelin-starred restaurant, which boasts superlative cooking from Darren Brown, a former chef at the Lanesborough.

Some of the highlights on the short, well-constructed a la carte include crab and lobster lasagne, remarkably gamey, rich venison and some exemplary foie gras. The wine list offers a number of well-chosen bottles at sensible prices, including a stunning 2007 Marcel Langoux Pouilly Fume and an equally good 2007 Blind River Pinot Noir from Marlborough. The staff are charming and ever-willing to please – none of the usual stuffy formality here – and you are all but guaranteed a wonderful time here.

West Stoke, Chichester PO18 9BN. www.weststokehouse.co.uk

Old-fashioned charm meets Michelin-starred food

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

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Rasoi, the eponymous Chelsea restaurant of Vineet Bhatia, is one of London’s few Indian establishments to boast a Michelin star, and were it not for Michelin’s apparent bias in favour of French cuisine, it’s not at all impossible that it wouldn’t boast a second. The hospitality and charm on display here are a world away from more bustling, swaggering establishments, best typified by the way that entry is secured by ringing the doorbell of a sedate-seeming townhouse.

Bhatia’s cooking is exemplary, moving beyond any idea of ‘Indian’ cuisine in favour of something fresh, new and delicious. After some of the best poppadums you’ll ever try, complete with to-die-for mango chutney, starters might include scallop and prawn brochette, complemented by wasabi ice cream, or a seafood medley of crab, salmon and prawn. Mains redefine expectations again; Achari guinea fowl breast with smoked aubergine mash is recognizably both Indian and a nod to European traditions, while a muscular oven baked spiced cod is about as far from the bland identikit fish curries of the high street as possible.

The wine list is significant both in terms of variety and price, but the helpful sommelier is on hand to recommend a suitable bottle, or half bottle, of which there is an excellent range. A visit here genuinely is a pleasure from start to finish.

10 Lincoln Street, Chelsea, SW3 www.rasoirestaurant.co.uk

Travelling up to Glenmorangie – Whisky Galore!

Friday, October 30th, 2009

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I was fortunate enough recently to head up to the Highlands of Scotland for a kind of whisky safari, concentrating on those two peaks of ‘the wee dram’, Glenmorangie and Ardbeg. Glenmorangie comes in an almost bewildering variety of forms, ranging from the famous original single malt whisky through a number of others, including a magnificent 18-year old variety and the Nectar D’Or, which has been specifically designed to have a citrus finish, almost like a lemon tart. The highly able staff at the Glenmorangie Distillery, who offer fascinating tours showing the whisky’s production from inception to eventual production, are keen to empathise that whisky is a hugely underrated accompaniment to food, although perhaps only the bravest would have a three-course meal with matching whiskies.

Ardbeg, which I tasted the next day (a man has, after all, got to have some time off for good behaviour), is an altogether different beast. More complex and peaty, and less accessible, the Supernova variety is the legendary whisky writer Jim Murray’s favourite Scotch whisky and single malt whisky of the year in 2009, as it has been for the past two years. It’s definitely an uncompromising drink – 58.9% alcohol, with a peat concentration in excess of 100 parts per million – but, as befits the name, it goes off like an exploding star in your mouth, thanks to its uniquely rich and flavoursome taste.

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I stayed at a fabulous place called Glenmorangie House, which offers old-school hospitality, including fantastic dinners where all the guests sit down over several belt-loosening courses and engage in chat, wonderfully comfy rooms (with four poster beds in a couple) and, perhaps most dangerously of all, a well-stocked honesty bar with a selection of just about every Ardbeg and Glenmorangie that could be thought of; it’s suggested that a few glasses are taken before dinner to take the edge off conversation later. A variety of activities can be arranged for guests including clay pigeon shooting, falconry (best not to get those two confused) and trips to nearby golf courses. Whatever you do, it’s sure to be a memorable occasion, whisky blurring notwithstanding.

Find out more about the whisky at www.glenmorangie.com and www.ardbeg.com,  and see more about Glenmorangie House at www.theglenmorangiehouse.com.

Sky-High Dining

Friday, October 30th, 2009

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Starting off in Belgium, Dinner In The Sky, which offers fine dining 50 metres above the ground, is gathering a global reputation. These elevated experiences have taken place in such eclectic locations such as the cathedral of Notre Dame in Amiens and during a fireworks display in the centre of Helsinki. For GBP 8000 for an eight hour hire it certainly isn’t a cheap experience, but nevertheless one that will not be forgotten. The reputation of this bizarre idea is being further enhanced by the involvement of world renowned chefs, including Pierre Gagnaire, who has taken to the skies to produce his Michelin-starred food in conditions that even the hardiest chef would find challenging. Up to twenty-two guests can fit around the suspended table which comes complete with waiters, chefs- who prepare the food in front of you during the flight- and there is even the option of having a second platform for extra entertainment if you need some distraction from the terrifying drop beneath.

www.dinnerinthesky.com

A legendary hotel is reborn

Friday, October 30th, 2009

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A couple of days ago, I went to the London relaunch of La Mamounia, Marrakech at the Charlotte Street Hotel where over copious amounts of Taittinger Rose, famed French interior designer Jacques Garcia (Costes Hotel) who has been overseeing the hotel’s refurbishment, told us about his work which after 3 years has been completed to much fanfare.

This legendary hotel which can count numerous luminaries amongst its guests including Winston Churchill has undergone a complete facelift. Garcia said he was guided by his passion for the east during the hotel’s reconstruction and so he placed key importance on artisanal work when it came to the interior architecture

Avenue Bab Jdid, Marrakech, Morocco

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See Venice and die, go to the Met and live

Friday, October 30th, 2009

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Cuisine in Venice tends towards the predictable; hideously expensive, formal and often somewhat prosaic. Therefore, it comes as a pleasure to head somewhere as ambitious and successful as the Met restaurant, where the chef, Corrado Fasolato, has used his El Bulli training to great effect.

Dishes play on traditional ideas of Italian cuisine with wit and intelligence, whether it involves using cuttlefish strips in spaghetti to create carbonara, or serving up beef cheek with horseradish ice cream. Fasolato’s cooking is never heavy with self-importance or pomposity, but instead ensures that a variety of tastes and sensations jostle with one another for effect. The service is charming and polite, ever-ready to suggest a variety of options, such as pairing dessert with some excellent rum, rather than the omnipresent vin de santo, and mention must be made of the spectacular room, which elegantly combines Renaissance portraiture with modern comforts. One of only two Michelin-starred restaurants in the city, its acclaim amongst gastronomes in the know can only increase.

Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice 30122, Italy. www.hotelmetropole.com

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