QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | London restaurants

CONCIERGE

Posts Tagged ‘London restaurants’

Dinner at Eight

Tuesday, August 10th, 2010

Hidden away in Moorgate is one of two Eight Members Club locations (there are plans to add a third). A stroll past some of our city’s tallest buildings, we arrived at Eight Moorgate EC2 and were ushered into a glass elevator with only one floor for choice. On the other side we were welcomed with a refined greeting and offered a choice of seating. We chose to sit outside to soak up the last of the evening sun and were led through a comfortable dining room out onto the terrace. Our table provided panoramic views of one of our nation’s most important assets, where some of the City’s biggest deals are made.

We order Champagne, which will accompany us throughout the meal. The amuse-bouche – a light potato purée with braised lamb, watercress, truffle shavings and a light drizzle of truffle oil – does exactly what it is supposed to do, teasing our palates for the dishes ahead. Perfectly matched glasses of French reds and whites, recommended by the personable and expert manager Eddy, join us at this stage in the meal. My favourite is the Chateau l’Eglise, sturdy enough to support my main course and enhance its flavours but in no way overpowering. The starters arrive in generous portions. Mine, quail wrapped in prosciutto ham, accompanied with pan-fried foire gras, broad beans and a flavoursome quail jus, could alone satisfy those with a slightly smaller appetite. This was the best dish of the evening, the foire gras seared to perfection, adding a sublime, creamy texture. My dining partner had the seared scallops with chorizo and artichoke purée, which was well presented and the scallops were cooked notably well. Our mains came out next; my partner had gone for the scotch beef fillet with potato galette, wild mushrooms and thyme jus.  The meat was of high quality and cooked skilfully.  Thyme jus is a rarity and did well with the fillet, balancing the existing flavours and adding some of its own. Typically indecisive, I went with the dessert platter. Expectations were superbly surpassed with the rhubarb trifle. The naturally tart flavour of rhubarb was perfectly counter balanced with the sweet custard, and the playful textures that often come with trifle were perfectly executed.

As supper came to a close we were encouraged to enjoy some of the clubs other facilities. After having a peak into the library and on-site tailor’s studio we were led to the bar. This is on the floor above the dining area and it also has its own terrace. I opted to sit inside as night was upon us. The bar provides table service from knowledgeable staff and a wide selection of both cocktail suggestions and spirits. We got a sneak sample of some home spiced rum which came alive in the glass, offering smooth layers of flavour that came and went in an order of cardamom, vanilla and star anise. As we sat and surveyed the cityscape, enjoying the live jazz trio I couldn’t help but crave an old fashioned. An expertly mixed drink, complete with maraschino cherries, was served with a smile and provided the perfect nightcap to the evening. Had it not been a Wednesday I could have spent many more hours enjoying the music, fine cocktails and skyline. Eight Moorgate EC2 was certainly satisfying and I left with fond memories, a full stomach and ‘take 5’ rolling around my head.

Eight Members Club is usually members only; however Quintessentially Members have the opportunity to try the Club and enjoy a complementary glass of Champagne when booking through Quintessentially. Email askq@quintessentially.com to take advantage of this offer.

For more information, please visit www.eightclub.co.uk/.

Divine deVille

Tuesday, July 27th, 2010

Whether you’re after inexpensive and unpretentious street food or a more epicurean and gourmet experience – heading to Marylebone is certain to satisfy every tastebud and dining desire. Top branch of the culinary tree is the 2 AA-rosette winning deVille Restaurant, located in the luxurious environs of the discreetly upmarket Mandeville hotel. Attracting a discerning clientele – those who know their Stinking Bishop from their Old Spot – as befits the British emphasis in the menu, this excellent establishment is a firm favourite amongst locals and visitors alike.

Somewhat at odds with the traditional nature of the extremely British cuisine is the décor of the deVille Restaurant. Designed by celebrity golden boy Stephen Ryan, he has transformed this staid Georgian townhouse into a tasteful riot of chocolate and fuchsia damask, 1960s Perspex chandeliers, with the odd Biedermeier thrown in for good measure. A design contradiction nearly as delightful as the food, the deVille is Regency rock and roll at its finest.

On a recent visit, we knew we were in safe hands from the start of the evening, having been offered a glass of one of the better house champagnes I’ve had the honour of tasting recently, Thienot Brut. The wine list is comprehensive and well-vetted, from their excellent Berry Bros house, to the more esoteric offerings further down the list, including some vintage ports and dessert wines.

The piece de resistance lies in the main courses, where, if you are ingenious enough to order the steak – from Rowley’s of Jermyn St – you’ll find it brought to your table on a kind of samovar, with the blue cheese and garlic butter sauce gently sizzling away; a terribly appropriate complement to the tender and succulent – dare I say exquisite – meat. Unlimited French fries or chips serve as a more than adequate side order.

For dessert, there is a fine selection of English cheeses, including a surprisingly super Cheddar, and a temptingly decadent variety of puddings. My recommendation: chocolate mousse with a delicately flavoured but absolutely sublime lavender ice-cream.

Return visit to deVille? You couldn’t pay me not to.

deVille Restaurant
The Mandeville Hotel
8-14 Mandeville Place, Marylebone, London W1U 2BE
+44 (0)207 935 4040

www.mandeville.co.uk/deVille-Restaurant.hotel

Revolution at The Dorchester

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

Grill_main

Britain’s reputation for good food is precarious. The British traditionally do ‘words’ a lot better. Ask for sauce on your meat, and you often get two options; “red” or “brown “ – both options awake with poetic possibility, insinuating something beyond the reaches of the palate.

It’s precisely the elusive quality of our food that makes it so charming, and on frequent occasion, spectacularly unpopular. But, hail The Dorchester for daring to flirt with this reputation, and for their aspirations towards the beautiful, in both word and the meaning conveyed therein. Ex-Rhodes W1 chef Brian Hughson is at one with this hidden destiny, and his libido for all things British simmers brilliantly against a backdrop of checkerboard Scottish upholstery, lampshades, and Gibsonesque warlord murals.

Put simply – The Grill at The Dorchester has the punters raving. The Chef’s masterclass demonstration is an a la carte menu that has the capital’s bon-vivant’s scuffling along the marble-paved cloisters before flinging themselves down in front of Hughson’s elegantly seared scallops with sardine ‘pie’ and cauliflower purée. His signature dish is a finger up at all the European promiscuity going on outside. Aside from this inciting incident, go there for the following major chord combinations: Carpaccio of Angus beef with steak tartare, gremolata and sourdough croutes; sea bream with garlic and shallot confit, clam vinaigrette and poached Scottish langoustines; and melt-in-the-mouth pork belly with electric crackling, pork fillet and tulle-licks of mash.

With a heaving dining room even in January, an ambience singularly fresh and unimposing – business schmoozing and high-profile luncheons are refreshingly bohemian in nature – and a wine-list heart-achingly fashioned by wine master Christian Stivert, we shove a fork in the amuse bouche of asparagus velouté and foam…and groan – ‘if food be the music of love, play on’.

For more information, and to book, please visit www.thedorchester.com/the-grill

« Back