
One of the most beloved places from the popular Cubitt House group, The Orange occupies that curious area between Victoria and Chelsea where it’s hard to get a decent and unpretentious meal at a reasonable cost. Thankfully this high-class establishment offers well-heeled locals and casual visitors alike somewhere of a decent standard to quench their thirst and sate their hunger. This might describe itself, perhaps knowingly modestly, as ‘a public house and hotel’, but rest assured the usual images of dank, depressing rooms and frowsy bar that this summons up couldn’t be further from the truth.
The ground floor offers a busy, boisterous neighbourhood pub, with a good wine list and a range of beers and ciders on draft. The first floor offers a stylishly decorated restaurant which manages to be both approachable and in keeping with the salubrious area that it’s situated in.
The food is superb, offering a Mediterranean twist but not labouring too slavishly under that particular yoke . Our starters of aubergine and tomato terrine with soft, creamy mozzarella and oysters were both excellent, the terrine in particular seeming to follow in the footsteps of Elizabeth David to winning effect. As it was Sunday, we eschewed the tempting-looking pizzas and pies in favour of roast beef and pork, which came served up as enormous slabs of delectable meat with all the trimmings that you could imagine. Washed down with a decent bottle of Chianti, these superbly cooked monsters were as filling and satisfying as any to be had in London today.
Thankfully dessert, so often a disappointment, lived up to expectations. A chocolate and cherry roulade managed to wittily subvert the usual expectations of a black forest gateau, and a baked cheesecake proved altogether lighter and tastier than others of its wont. The staff were superb throughout, even when I had to entertain myself in my guest’s temporary absence – the weather outside might have been atrocious, but the warmth of the welcome inside more than made up for it. We’re looking forward to our next visit to this lovely place extremely soon.
37 Pimlico Road, London SW1. www.theorange.co.uk
















