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Escape on the Chao Phraya

Tuesday, July 6th, 2010

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A veritable grand dame in the Thai hotel business, The Peninsula in Bangkok is an Art Deco masterpiece and a triumph of both style and substance. Don’t go here for 21st century mod-cons and wizardry – but for a classic, charming and old-fashioned experience, The Peninsula wins hands down.

The Peninsula is located on the Chao Phraya River, opposite the Mandarin Oriental and Shangri-la hotels. The stunning pool area, complete with cabanas, smiling waiters distributing iced water, a terraced swimming pool and chilled-out tunes was the perfect place to enjoy a late afternoon jug of lemon margarita. The hotel’s riverside location is one of its biggest draws – a constant stream of boats and barges steam up and down the muddy Chao Phraya, making for a memorable sunset backdrop and an ever-changing landscape.

We were given a deluxe room located on the 24th floor of the hotel with great views across the river and city. We couldn’t help but have a nose around the rest of the rooms though – the Thai suite is absolutely gorgeous – miles of plain, dark wood creates a calm and cooling ambiance, with an intimate bedroom that runs a little smaller than might be expected, but lends the whole place a cosy charm. If you really want to kick off your weekend in style, fly in on a helicopter and land on the rooftop helipad for a truly sensational experience.

Service is friendly and unobtrusive, and despite the riots in Bangkok a few months ago, the city seems back on track for another hot and busy summer. The hotel was fully-booked the weekend we stayed, which meant we didn’t get to have breakfast at the riverfront cafe, but apart from that, it was pretty much perfect.

Deluxe rooms from THB 14,000 per night (approximately GBP 280). The Thai suite costs from THB 45,000 (approximately GBP 900) per night.

Peninsula Bangkok
333 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan
Bangkok 10600, Thailand

Tel: (66-2) 861 2888
Email: pbk@peninsula.com

Amangalla for Mind and Body

Friday, July 2nd, 2010

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The last week has been spent in the divine retreat of Amangalla in Sri Lanka. Daily yoga sessions, a healthy and delicious diet, and some of the most unearthly spa treatments I’ve ever experienced, has left me feeling – dare I say – like a well rested and energetic child again.

Set in the heart of a 17th century Dutch fort, I was immediately escorted into a world of tranquility and indulgence. On waking the first morning in my luxurious suite, I take note of my authentic surroundings… Turn-of-the-century ambiance has been recreated with a four poster, king size bed; Planter’s chair, writing desk, period dining table and Pettagama chest. I indulge in a bountiful yet nutritious breakfast followed by a casual stroll around the colonial fort; weaving my way through the narrow streets and on towards the ramparts and seawall; breathing in the laughter, history and crafts of an ancient maritime people.

The afternoon is spent discovering Sri Lanka’s first luxurious Ayurvedic experience. Ayurveda – meaning “science of life” – is an ancient philosophy focusing on exercise, yoga, meditation and massage. The charming Dr Fernando diagnosed my Doshas – the three basic physiological principles that interact to create health – and advised on how to best achieve the perfect balance in my life.

Yoga sessions were held in the beautiful Pavilion – and for those moments of quiet reflection – I chose to quietly meditate on the sweeping surrounding lawns before my treatments in The Baths.

Restoring both body and mind, the softly lit treatment chambers lead off into five stunning cloisters from a descending arched hallway. The Baths hydrotherapy chambers, steam rooms, sauna, cold dip pools and unique Jacuzzi pools, feature candle lit recesses, high ceilings and traditional archways – architectural details that serve to further enhance the overall experience.

Complimenting the more ancient traditions, Amangalla also offers a number of more modern beauty and lifestyle treatments in the salon. Drifting off during my head massage in an original Planter’s chairs overlooking two hundred year old gardens, I felt completely refreshed and ready to partake in a traditional colonial feast before venturing out for a spot of stargazing in the Garden Pavilion.

Amangalla
10 Church Street
Fort Galle, Sri Lanka

tel (94) 91 223 3388
fax (94) 91 223 3355

email amangalla@amanresorts.com

To dry for…

Thursday, May 6th, 2010

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Now there’s no excuse for an unkempt coif in the morning: Percy and Reed’s blow-dry breakfast service offers a ‘quickie’ fix which guarantees to have you groomed and fed, and out of the door – all within forty five minutes. The favourite salon of Sophie Dahl, it offes a classy but relaxed atmosphere, with chic design elements and kitsch effects, including coiffeur-butchered Barbie dolls peering out from behind shampoo bottles.

I’m met by a bonny girl called Lacy who I immediately fall in love with after she offers me a black coffee and an energising tea tree shampoo head massage. Very soon, her magic hands leave me feeling like an altogether different person from the dishevelled sloth who arrived on the doorstep less than twenty minutes before.

Whilst my considerably bountiful mane is tamed into shiny tresses, I’m brought the porridge I ordered from the breakfast menu of the delicatessen across the road, Villandry, which offers a range of pastries, hot drinks and other indulgent breakfasty treats. It’s normally a diet coke on the way into work but to hell with it – this is what pampering is all about.

I cannot praise the service enough-for putting a spring in my locks, as well as my step.

Prices for the breakfast blow dry start at GBP 25, and the salon uses Shu Uermura and Bumble and Bumble products, with Kérastase set to come in at the end of the month.

For more information, visit http://www.percyandreed.com.

Lucknam Park

Wednesday, April 7th, 2010

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There are remarkably few hotels that offer the so-called holy trinity of a great spa, fantastic accommodation and brilliant food along with that impossible to define sense of welcome and great service that elevate a visit from the great to the exceptional. Lucknam Park, situated a few miles away from Bath, is such a place. Less high-profile than a Babington House or a Cliveden, it’s nonetheless remarkably successful with its discerning clientele, and it isn’t at all hard to see why.

The first thing that strikes you approaching its long, sweeping drive are the horses. Not wild horses, mind, but part of the remarkably well equipped equestrian centre that’s part of the hotel. Then, when you arrive at the reception, the atmosphere’s like nothing so much as coming to a spectacularly beautiful and friendly private house. Keys are offered on proper fobs (not the plastic key cards apparently de rigeur everywhere else), and the rooms, whatever their size, offer tastefully decorated and luxurious accommodation, where flat screen TVs and Anne Semonin products jostle for space with antiques and even an in-room visitors’ book, where comments tend to be along the lines of ‘another wonderful stay’.

The recently opened spa, carefully designed to be in architectural sympathy with the rest of the property, offers a fantastic range of treatments, including a ‘made to measure massage’, in which your aches and pains are first carefully assessed, and then taken away by a more than experienced masseuse. Tea and a rest follow in the so-called relaxation area, or alternatively you can explore the delights of the various swimming pools and saunas, including a partially outdoor hydrotherapy pool, which provides some much-needed jets of water to jolt you from a pleasant torpor.

And then, as if these delights weren’t enough, there’s the possibility of dining in the Michelin-starred Park restaurant. In true old-school style, jackets and ties are required for gentlemen, who assess the menu over a cocktail in the superbly decorated formal lounge . To be fair, you’re almost spoilt for choice by Hywel Jones’ cooking. Starters could include thinly sliced Norfolk eel and grilled Cornish mullet with potato and horseradish risotto, or compression of pork with langoustines, followed by braised turbot with hand rolled macaroni or loin of Wiltshire lamb with white asparagus and morel mushrooms. There are even vegetarian and non-vegetarian gourmet menus that allow a Cook’s tour of the delights on offer. Whatever you order, the more than knowledgeable sommelier can match your choices with a range of divine wines, available either by the bottle or the glass, at a range of prices.

There is much more to commend here – I’ve not even mentioned the excellent breakfasts, or the super library, tailor-made for a relaxing cup of tea or something stronger – but it’s really best that you see it for yourself. You won’t be disappointed.

Room only rate is from £295 per room per night (include VAT and is subject to change) This includes full use of the hotel spa facilities, bicycles, tennis courts, croquet, walking trails, trim trail and five a side football pitch.  A minimum two night stay is required for weekends.

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne, Chippenham, Wilts. www.lucknampark.co.uk

Messing About On The River

Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010

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As summer approaches, some of the highlights of the year are centred around Henley on Thames. This gloriously scenic Oxfordshire town is notable for many things, such as having had (until his appointment as Mayor of London) Boris Johnson as its MP and its royal regatta in July, which is rightly regarded as one of the highlights of the social season.

Somewhere as upmarket and discerning as this town needs a top-class hotel, and it certainly has one. One of the jewels in the crown of the Hotel du Vin group, their outpost in Henley is situated in the former Brakspear brewery. This leads to a fascinating mixture of old and new in the combination of modern-day high-end luxury (flat screen TVs, Egyptian linen, twin baths and the like) with the original features of the brewery, such as exposed brick walls and the extremely sophisticated billiard room and cigar gallery, which occupy a part of the former cellarage. (It goes without saying that the hotel’s non smoking, though those wishing to enjoy a fine stogie will be able to light up in the outside cigar shack.)

There’s a good variety of places to eat and drink, including a popular and buzzy bistro and the champagne bar which boasts an awe-inspiring selection of wines, whiskies, cognacs and other goodies. It’s possible to combine this with what’s known as the ‘La Roche’ wine tasting, a chance to try some of the best vintages round the world without having to leave the hotel.

There is plenty more to praise at this excellent establishment, but to be honest, you’re better off visiting yourself to have the complete experience. You’re not likely to regret it.

Belmont House, 23 New Street, Henley-on-Thames. www.hotelduvin.com

In the Wake of the Bounty

Thursday, March 11th, 2010

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Sales of superyachts have soared in recent months as the super rich regain faith in the burgeoning economy. A good 300 million Euros’ worth of 70m long boat have been sending flutes of rainbow-coloured Riviera sparkle in its wake since 2010 began. And once those millions are spent, a few more are shelled out on swift little copters for the ride into Cannes, or, for those truly in vogue, the new retro-styled C boat – the most popular tender this side of Monaco’s autumn boat show.

Now this is the sort of motor yacht Errol Flynn would have swaggered onto, hair slicked back and a Mediterranean sparkle in his eye: high performance with silver-screen looks, it’s both way ahead and way before it’s time, evoking 60s Italian Riva boat flair whilst the mirror-black prow hides some complicated hydrodynamics and slick engineering – two 236hp diesel engines and two 230 Alamarin water jets finding 45 knots on a silky sea. Power and beauty seldom come together; the C boat insisted on the less-is-more dialectic, and found it. Yacht enthusiast and C-boat designer Jason Carrington drew inspiration from the much-loved aesthetic of a 20’s J-Class yacht (the teak deck and deeply cut bow are straight out of a Fitzgerald novella). The classic tapered lines are forged from light-weight carbon materials and there are some seriously rakish exhausts out back, shedding swirls of blue as it surges forward with just a tap on the throttle. But you want to entertain as well? The interior has enough of that considered elegance without cramping on the more important lagoon-lapping nonchalance.

Buy one and you’re instantly eligible to enter the famed Panerai Classic Yachts challenge – the C boat is afforded the status of a ‘Spirit of Tradition’ yacht. So go get your hair wet and have some fun – if you can be bothered to show off. But really, it’s all about getting to that Venetian lagoon at sunset, reciting Byron or Keats as you kill the motor, and just standing there, a martini in one hand, another appreciative aesthete in the other, and gazing at the stars like some surrealist work of art.

For more information, please see www.c-boat.co.uk or www.burgerboat.com

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