There are few cities in England that offer a combination of awe-inspiring surroundings, world-class culture and history, stunning food and drink and a legendary nightlife scene, but Newcastle-upon-Tyne offers all of them, amongst much else. Everyone knows the iconography of the city, from the imposing Tyne Bridge to the architectural spectacle that is Grey Street (voted Britain’s favourite street). Yet there’s so much more to it than the obvious highlights, whether you want to visit some of the country’s most striking art galleries or stay at some of the most luxurious boutique hotels in the North-East.
Ever since Gateshead welcomed the Baltic Centre and Sage concert hall, to say nothing of the ambitious Millennium Bridge spanning the Tyne between Gateshead and Newcastle, there has been a seismic shift in how the city regards itself. Yes there’s still the Bigg Market, rammed to the hilt every weekend with stag parties and revellers, but you’re just as likely to find upmarket wine bars off Grey Street or some of the country’s most characterful pubs, where good cheer and great beer go hand-in-hand.
The city isn’t short of great hotels, but two of the best are undeniably the Malmaison and the Hotel du Vin. The Malmaison is set in a stunning location adjacent to the river, a short walk from the centre of town and literally seconds from the ‘hip’ bars that populate the Quayside. In a former warehouse, the rooms have been sympathetically restored to offer all the mod cons that you’d expect (flat screen TVs, rainfall showers, Egyptian cotton linen) but with a sense of humour as well, from the lifts that speak to you in French (!) to the hearty brasserie fare served up in the restaurant that makes ample use of local ingredients; unpretentious and very enjoyable dishes.
The Hotel du Vin, by way of contrast, is catered towards visitors who want a quirkier but slightly more grown-up experience. If you’re into wine, this place will be a joy to spend time in, from the rooms named after various producers to the impressive cellar that can be sampled either in the restaurant or the excellent bar. Again, the conversion from a former industrial building allows for all kind of fun design touches, such as rooms that incorporate the shower and bath into the bedroom itself; ideal for a romantic couple wanting to spend some quality time together.
On the other side of town, Jesmond is commonly regarded as the city’s ‘posh’ area, with chi-chi bars and coffee shops catering to a mixture of young professionals, students and the city’s well-heeled. Many flock to the highly acclaimed Jesmond Dene House, which beautifully conveys an air of country refinement while set just outside the city centre. The highly acclaimed restaurant, which boasts 3 AA rosettes, specialises in high quality cuisine that combines European and British influences, but in an accessible and pleasant way. Menus range from seriously high-class gastronomic tasting options in the evening to a more straightforward but no less enjoyable Sunday lunch set menu, where carnivores will appreciate the suitably hearty roast beef washed down with one of the excellent wines that the knowledgeable sommelier can point you towards.
There’s a huge amount to Newcastle – indeed, with the small but perfectly formed historic city of Durham a few miles down the road, it’s the ideal base for a weekend away. So throw away your preconceptions of Viz and ‘the Toon Army’, and prepare to enjoy yourself in one of Britain’s most interesting destinations.
Malmaison, 104 Quayside, NE1. www.malmaison-newcastle.com
Hotel du Vin, Allan House, City Road, NE1 www.hotelduvin.com/hotels/newcastle
Jesmond Dene House, Jesmond Dene Rd, NE2 www.jesmonddenehouse.co.uk
Quintessentially travelled from London King’s Cross to Newcastle by rail with East Coast Trains: advance return fares, booked online, start from £24 Standard Class or £86 First Class: book via www.eastcoast.co.uk, call 08457 225225 or visit any staffed station.
