Whether you’re after inexpensive and unpretentious street food or a more epicurean and gourmet experience – heading to Marylebone is certain to satisfy every tastebud and dining desire. Top branch of the culinary tree is the 2 AA-rosette winning deVille Restaurant, located in the luxurious environs of the discreetly upmarket Mandeville hotel. Attracting a discerning clientele – those who know their Stinking Bishop from their Old Spot – as befits the British emphasis in the menu, this excellent establishment is a firm favourite amongst locals and visitors alike.
Somewhat at odds with the traditional nature of the extremely British cuisine is the décor of the deVille Restaurant. Designed by celebrity golden boy Stephen Ryan, he has transformed this staid Georgian townhouse into a tasteful riot of chocolate and fuchsia damask, 1960s Perspex chandeliers, with the odd Biedermeier thrown in for good measure. A design contradiction nearly as delightful as the food, the deVille is Regency rock and roll at its finest.
On a recent visit, we knew we were in safe hands from the start of the evening, having been offered a glass of one of the better house champagnes I’ve had the honour of tasting recently, Thienot Brut. The wine list is comprehensive and well-vetted, from their excellent Berry Bros house, to the more esoteric offerings further down the list, including some vintage ports and dessert wines.
The piece de resistance lies in the main courses, where, if you are ingenious enough to order the steak – from Rowley’s of Jermyn St – you’ll find it brought to your table on a kind of samovar, with the blue cheese and garlic butter sauce gently sizzling away; a terribly appropriate complement to the tender and succulent – dare I say exquisite – meat. Unlimited French fries or chips serve as a more than adequate side order.
For dessert, there is a fine selection of English cheeses, including a surprisingly super Cheddar, and a temptingly decadent variety of puddings. My recommendation: chocolate mousse with a delicately flavoured but absolutely sublime lavender ice-cream.
Return visit to deVille? You couldn’t pay me not to.
deVille Restaurant
The Mandeville Hotel
8-14 Mandeville Place, Marylebone, London W1U 2BE
+44 (0)207 935 4040
