If you’re a connoisseur of fine Chinese cuisine, then Fitzrovia’s Hakkasan restaurant, first opened in 2001, is surely on your radar. Awarded a much-deserved Michelin star, its combination of superb dining, a stunning wine list and to-die-for cocktails have attracted much praise from glitterati and gourmands alike. Yet there were also vague murmurings amongst the cognoscenti that what seemed fresh and exciting a decade ago was now starting to seem almost like part of the furniture. How can such a sexy and forward-looking brand be developed?
The answer, perhaps inevitably, was to open a second branch. This time, Hakkasan Mayfair (as it’s now called) is located in the plush and plutocratic surroundings of Mayfair’s Bruton Street, a stone’s throw from Berkeley Square. While the original’s low-key setting down a back street conveyed a certain air of secrecy, here the location smacks of opulence, even if the atmospheric corridor that you stroll down to enter the restaurant still retains the private, in-the-know feel that enticed so many visitors to the first restaurant. The glamorous, Diane von Fustenberg-attired staff greet you and make you aware that you have entered a truly classy destination.
As you would expect, the new one retains most of the strengths that made the original such a landmark. The cocktail list offers innovative and delicious drinks to start your meal, with a subtle but noticeable Oriental influence. A Mai Tai Tai combines mango and Hendrick’s gin – a great favourite – to stunning effect, whereas a Plum Sour, melding plum sake, Rock and Rye and aromatic bitters, perfectly sets the scene for the meal about to unfold.
Anyone who has been to Hakkasan will know that, with a couple of honourable exceptions, it bears about as much resemblance to the average London Chinese restaurant as Chicken Cottage does to The Ritz. At a recent lunchtime visit, the selection of dim sum on offer was both substantial and exciting, with ‘oh that sounds interesting’ options such as ostrich roll and scallop shu mai, along with old but delicious favourites such as the venison puff and har gau dumplings. More substantial main courses included quail stuffed with foie gras – rich, decadent and delicious – and braised pork belly in double soy sauce, which managed the difficult feat of making something as comparatively widespread as pork belly taste exciting and fresh again. Complimented superbly by a light and refreshing bottle of Austrian Riesling, it was a superb experience, beautifully tailed by desserts including a chestnut and blackcurrant tart that struck the perfect balance between sweet and savoury.
There’s no question that this will emulate its predecessor and be a huge success (and it will be interesting to see how the brand is developed over the next few years, with other restaurants in Mumbai, Miami and Abu Dhabi, and more rumoured). Whether you want a full-on gourmet extravaganza or a light lunch, there’s something here for absolutely everyone.
17 Bruton Street, London W1. w3.hakkasan.com/mayfair
