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Posts Tagged ‘Michelin star’

Jersey Cream

Wednesday, December 15th, 2010

Along with Guernsey the only remaining vestige of the Duchy of Normandy, Jersey remains an unspoilt and charming escape only three hours from London. The island’s outstanding beauty has attracted a significant amount of investment over the years, and the island is full of fantastic hotels and restaurants to explore and enjoy. With fifty miles of coastline, there are plenty of walks and water sports, and inland the quaint Norman farmhouses and sleepy country lanes lend a very French feel to this English-speaking enclave.

Jersey’s hotel market has evolved somewhat over the last few years, and what has thrived is high-end luxury with a contemporary twist. The most renowned hotel is probably Longueville Manor, one of only two five star residences on the island. Set in an historic and elegant 14th century manor house, it is a perfect country escape to relax and indulge in. Indeed, the Longueville Manor restaurant is among the best in Jersey and combines high-level culinary expertise with the use of local produce (much of it grown in its own gardens) to provide first-class Anglo-French cuisine to excite even the most experienced of diners. The wine list that accompanies contains some exceptional wines, with some interesting and surprising selections by the talented sommelier.

For those who prefer to stay closer to town, The Club is enviably situated within the centre of the capital St Helier. With its slick modern feel and stylish boutique opulence it provides an altogether different luxury experience. The Club Spa provides a comprehensive selection of treatments to cater to every guest’s relaxation tastes. But it’s the food that’s the piece de resistance here. The Club’s restaurant, Bohemia, is truly exceptional. One of only two Michelin starred restaurants on the island, it is one of the finest in the British isles. The extraordinary and innovative cooking offers such delights as roast venison with chocolate tortellini and three hour cooked duck egg with new season morels and asparagus, and again offers an opportunity to sample local Jersey produce. All this is complimented by a superb selection of wines and faultless understated service.
Also in St Helier, the recently expanded Royal Yacht Hotel boasts a large selection of modern luxury rooms and spa, and its town centre location and number of bars means that it is great night spot for those who wish to carry their nights on a little later. It also offers a particularly splendid afternoon tea. Visit www.luxuryjerseyhotels.com for more information.

If you venture a little outside of the capital, this is where Jersey really reveals its rustic beauty and charm. The parish of St Brelade with its delightful village set into the bay is home to the Oyster Box, a terrific seafood restaurant which is very popular with locals and tourists alike; the oysters, unsurprisingly, are a highlight. Also in St Brelade is The Atlantic Hotel, which boasts superb sea views and a charming mixture of old and new as well as the Atlantic, the island’s other Michelin starred restaurant. It’s very popular with golf fans as one of the best courses on the island, La Moye, backs on to the hotel.

With some of Jersey’s real gems lying outside St Helier, it is difficult to get a true feel for it without having travelled around the various parts of the island. One easy way to do this is to take a tour of the island. In the summer you may try a cyling or walking tour with the ever-knowledgeable Arthur the blue badge guide or, and if you are feeling a little more adventurous, why not take a tour with the increasingly popular ‘Limobikes’, riding round the island in style leather-clad on the back of a Harley Davidson?

With its tranquil bucolic beauty, impressive hotels and fine dining, there is a great deal more to Jersey than meets the eye. As they say in Jersey, it is a small island with a big personality, and at such a short distance from both Britain and France, it is a relaxing weekend destination that it is very easy to keep returning to.

We’ve also got an exclusive offer for Quintessentially Members. For stays between Jan 1 and March 31st 2011 Members are offered four nights for the price of three at luxury Jersey hotels mentioned, subject to availability. Bookings would need to be made with the hotels direct quoting ‘Quintessentially 4 for 3 offer’ and a membership card would need to be shown at the hotel. The offer applies to all hotels in Luxury Jersey Hotels.

Quintessentially flew from London Gatwick to Jersey Airport with British Airways: book via www.britishairways.com or call + 44 (0)844 493 0787 for reservations and general enquiries.

To The Manor Born

Friday, October 22nd, 2010

Mae West once said, ‘I’m easily satisfied. I only want the best.’ This maxim appears to hold true for Exclusive Hotels, a small but perfectly formed group of luxury hotels (and winner of 2009’s AA Small Hotel Group) in locations ranging from Hampshire to Sussex, where the emphasis is on allowing guests to enjoy themselves in unpretentious but beautifully presented surroundings. Unlike many ‘country house hotels’, where chintz and expensive extras soon take away the pleasure of a stay, the idea here is that guests can relax and feel at home immediately.

Nowhere is this more the case than one of the jewels of the crown in the collection, the Manor House. Set in the beautifully preserved Wiltshire village of Castle Combe, where remarkably little has been changed over the past centuries (no TV aerials or ‘For Sale’ signs here, let alone anything more unbecoming), the hotel occupies the manor house itself, which originally dates from the 14th century, as well as, charmingly, a row of cottages leading into the villages. Many of these are now used for guest accommodation, and they represent a charming synergy of the old and new; four poster beds and antique furniture jostle for space with infinity baths and flat screen TVs. It’s hard to imagine even the most devoted sybarite being disappointed by the luxurious accommodation.

The hotel is rightly famous for its Michelin-starred Bybrook Restaurant, under the capable command of Richard Davies, whose previous berths include Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea and The Vineyard at Stockcross. With a pedigree like that, you know what to expect; dishes that combine European sophistication with carefully sourced ingredients and exquisitely accomplished cooking. Highlights of the tasting menu, the so-called ‘Menu Prestige’, included a delectable starter of hand dived scallops with butternut squash and chorizo, steamed fillet of turbot and a main course of beautifully tender and rich lamb, which my guest, an avowed vegetarian, insisted on sampling, and pronounced it exquisite.  As you’d expect from a restaurant that has been recognised by the AA Notable Wine Lists, the selection of wines on offer, either by the glass or bottle, is both eclectic and deeply satisfying, with the sommelier on hand to offer expert guidance whatever your budget.

However, there’s more to the hotel than just lavish bedrooms and equally lavish dinners. The afternoon tea is widely acknowledged to be a thing of beauty and wonder, and indeed the prestigious and highly demanding Tea Guild pronounced it the best country house afternoon tea award this year – with 15 varieties of loose leaf tea on offer, it’s an authoritative selection. And the ever-popular monthly ‘Ladies Lunch’ sessions, with the next being held on 6th December, offer a four course lunch along with coffee and a glass of wine, as well as the chance to try your hand at Christmas floral decorating, for a bargain £33.

To say any more about this wonderful destination would be to gild the lily, but it’s likely that if Mae had been alive today, she might have followed in the footsteps of her fellow Hollywood stars Michael Douglas and Gwyneth Paltrow and found her way to Castle Combe. She’s unlikely to have been disappointed.

Manor House Hotel, Castle Combe, nr Bath. www.manorhouse.co.uk

Quintessentially travelled with First Great Western Trains. For the best deals, book up to 12 weeks in advance on the website www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk or contact customer services on + 44 (0)8547 000 125.

Ristorante Semplice, London

Friday, October 1st, 2010

There are few restaurants in London I would feel confident branding with the official stamp of…

Perfection.

Persnickety critics often take the slightest inconsistency in the service, a dropped fork, or mildly over-salted dish as ammunition to shame a dining establishment, steering future patrons away in droves.

Awarded one Michelin star in 2009, and voted the Best Value Set Lunch Award by Tatler Magazine in 2009, Ristorante Semplice is the Italian restaurant in Mayfair for diners who appreciate authentic, and at the same time, daringly inventive Italian.

Marco Torri, the head chef who was formerly at the highly-regarded Locanda Locatelli, is the driving force behind this just-off-Bond Street, culinary perla. Dishes include home-made egg sedanini pasta with venison ragout and cavolo nero sauce; trofie (pasta) served with half a lobster and peas.

In addition – and unique to Ristorante Semplice – is a trolley filled with a gorgeous selection of Italian cheeses served with a medley of home-made (of course) preserves. An impressive 80% of Ristorante Semplice’s ingredients are sourced directly from Italy, as is their wine list.

My guest and I were treated to a special chef’s menu with wines paired to the chef’s selection. The succession of small plates beheld what could only be described as interactive pieces of gastrononmic art; the visual being equally as impressive as the tastes and smells. The aroma of summerblack truffles descended into the dining room like her majesty, parading through the swinging doors of the kitchen, transporting me to a dense enchanted forest just after a morning rain.

My recommendations: a salad of diver-caught Scottish scallops, pickled ginger and “faux” pink pepper from Peru served with a divine 2008 Gavi di Gavi I Moncalvi Vigna di Rovereto – and for the main courses – Taliatelle pasta with fresh broadbeans and summerblack truffles; and wild turbot served with sautéed spinach, cherry tomatoes, capers, Cerignola and Gaeta olives and basil with a glass of perfectly balanced Franciacorta Bianco Bonomi Castellino 2009.

The staff are quite formal and extremely attentive, which for some reason did not annoy or intimidate my guest and I, perhaps because we expected this to be the case. What they were – above anything else – was extremely well-informed. While the wait staff at certain restaurants can blast your hair back with the all too familiar ‘I’m only here for the money’ scowl – the staff at Semplice appeared genuinely interested in what they were serving, where the foods and wine were sourced from and how they were prepared. There was only one collective emotion emanating from the staff: pride – and rightly so.

Simply perfection.

To make reservations please call +44 (0) 207 495 1509 or alternatively email info@ristorantesemplice.com.

Revisting India in London

Thursday, July 15th, 2010

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Entering its 16th year in the heart of Mayfair’s cobbled lanes, Tamarind have won the Michelin star twice for their efforts; they first won it in 2001, and had it nabbed away in 2009 before the detractors had another change of heart. I spent the summer of 2004 in India, travelling from far in the North, down into the mystical backwaters of Kerala. Delhi cuisine is full of bold, vibrant and often fiery flavours. Trivandrum curries were sweeter, pairing fish with fresh local fruits. Needless to say, nothing I ate in the stunning subcontinent was even remotely familiar. The “curry” we order on a lazy Sunday evening in London has been adapted beyond recognition for the faint-hearted English palette, which is why Tamarind is so refreshing and truly authentic.

With its sweeping copper pillars and crisp white linens, Tamarind is sublimely elegant. I was welcomed by an attentive sommelier who recommended a beautiful South African chardonnay from Stellenbosch. I’m not usually a chardonnay drinker but it was a perfectly matched glass of wine. The menu is carefully divided into “genres” and with just a quick scan, it was immediately apparent this was unlike other London curry houses.

A selection of mini appetizers was selected for us. The Channa Chaat, a spiced chickpea dip with mint chutney and sweetened yoghurt topped with blueberries and tamarind chutney, might sound like an Indian houmous but was not. It may have been chickpea based, but the combination of sweet blueberry with tamarind chutney was nothing short of magnificent. A generous portion of monkfish arrived marinated in fresh coriander and spices alongside a heavenly Adraki Murgh chicken dish.

A simple cutlet of Kashmiri lamb shank so tender I could have cut it with a plastic fork was the highlight of the meal. Slow-cooked with whole spices, yoghurt, saffron and Kashmiri chillies, my main course was a perfect tribute to Indian cuisine; refined and delicate in texture yet entirely robust in flavour.

At Tamarind, the ambience, decor, cuisine and service are without flaw.

Not usually one for dessert, when the basmati rice pudding was placed before me, I simply had to try it. The creamy texture cleanses the palate beautifully while lending that subtly sweet finish, the ideal finale to the full-bodied spices so present in the previous dishes.

India is the most enigmatic of countries. Their culture and rich history materialises in the expanse and intricacies of their sumptuous cuisine. If you do find yourself in London with a craving for the authentic majesty of India, bypass your local tandoori and head into the heart of Mayfair…

Tamarind
20 Queen Street
Mayfair, London
W1J 5PR

T: 020 7629 3561
F: 020 7499 5034

www.tamarindrestaurant.com

When in Rome

Monday, July 5th, 2010

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“You may have the universe if I may have Italy,” espoused the Romantic operatic composer, Giueseppe Verdi. I can’t help but wonder as I take to the streets of Rome, if that was in particular reference to its capital. The untouched relics on every street corner amidst its heady, hot and breathtaking beauty, always leave me wanting more of the Eternal City. Were he alive today, Verdi would no doubt fall equally in love with the city’s sumptuous Cavalieri hotel.

Now part of the prestigious Waldorf Astoria collection, the Rome Cavalieri has been a staple of luxury in Rome for over 45 years. As I pull up in front of its 1960s symmetrical façade, I am quite taken aback by its somewhat imposing exterior, unaware at first of the treasures to be found inside. Once through its grand doors, however, I am instantly enticed by the enormity of the hotel’s private art collection in the impressive reception and outdoor pool flirting with me from behind the bar. The sweeping central staircase leads down towards an even larger collection of art and manicured gardens. I am shown to my room, a stunning, Park Avenue-sized suite designed around one of the most comfortable beds I have ever had the pleasure of sleeping in. Located on one of the hills that surrounds Rome, I’m seduced by views of the downtown area and across to St. Peter’s and The Pantheon. One cannot visit a city like Rome and spend the entire time in a hotel room, but I wonder as I lay on those soft sheets looking out at the expanse of the city – this enormous living jigsaw puzzle – how I’ll ever tear myself away! Such separation proves more difficult when I see the size of my bathtub.

A spa appointment persuades me out the door and down to the magnificent 2500 square metre Grand Spa. Carbohydrate and Carpaccio calories can be worked off within minutes at the hotel’s luxurious fitness centre, followed by any number of blissful treatments in the Grand Spa. I personally enjoyed the La Prairie caviar facial, but guests can choose from a variety of Ayurvedic treatments and more conventional offerings, such as pedicures and manicures. The spa also boasts Turkish baths, hot and cold plunge pools, four swimming pools, hydro massage and whirlpools.

While I would rarely indulge in hotel fayre whilst traveling, in this case I must insist, as I would not dare miss out on the gastronomic excellence of Chef Heinz Beck at the infamous La Pergola. The only 3 Michelin starred restaurant in the city, its accolades are easily understood. Though not a Roman native (Beck is German) he is responsible for the legendary cuisine that has put La Pergola so firmly on the international culinary map. Surprisingly, dinner is far more reasonably priced than one would expect. For the best introduction to Beck’s genius, I would highly recommend the tasting menu: Tuna Tartare served in an infusion of green tea; flaky, perfectly cooked cod; liquorice shoulder of Iberian suckling pig – just a few of the delectable dishes on offer. If you happen to visit during the warmer months, dine on the roof terrace with its panoramic views across Rome.

Brunch in the L’Uliveto Restaurant by the outdoor pool should be enjoyed the following day, with its endless feast of sumptuous Italian and International delights.

For those who want to explore the art on offer throughout the city, there really is no better starting point than the Cavalieri. An entire book could be written about the hotel’s extensive art collection, the highlight being the three Giovanni Battista Tiepolo’s that hang proudly in the hotel lobby and the Andy Warhol’s in the Penthouse suite.

Looking to explore the city itself? Cavalieri’s contact list is enviable to say the least. For a private view of the Sistine Chapel simply give them three month’s notice and they’ll take care of it for you. Private tours of Roman palaces? Why, of course. A guided tour of the Pantheon with the city’s top art historian? They will sort it out for you immediately. I was fortunate to enjoy a private tour of the Palazzo Colonna, the only palace in the city in which the family for whom it was built still resides. Forget struggling with crowds to catch a glimpse of the city’s finest destinations – put yourself in the hands of the Cavalieri’s Private Guide and you’ll waste not a second queuing…

You may have the universe, my friend, if I may have Cavalieri.

Via Alberto Cadlolo 101
00136 Rome, Italy
+39 635 091

http://www.romecavalieri.com/

http://www.romecavalieri.com/lapergola.php

Lucknam Park

Wednesday, April 7th, 2010

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There are remarkably few hotels that offer the so-called holy trinity of a great spa, fantastic accommodation and brilliant food along with that impossible to define sense of welcome and great service that elevate a visit from the great to the exceptional. Lucknam Park, situated a few miles away from Bath, is such a place. Less high-profile than a Babington House or a Cliveden, it’s nonetheless remarkably successful with its discerning clientele, and it isn’t at all hard to see why.

The first thing that strikes you approaching its long, sweeping drive are the horses. Not wild horses, mind, but part of the remarkably well equipped equestrian centre that’s part of the hotel. Then, when you arrive at the reception, the atmosphere’s like nothing so much as coming to a spectacularly beautiful and friendly private house. Keys are offered on proper fobs (not the plastic key cards apparently de rigeur everywhere else), and the rooms, whatever their size, offer tastefully decorated and luxurious accommodation, where flat screen TVs and Anne Semonin products jostle for space with antiques and even an in-room visitors’ book, where comments tend to be along the lines of ‘another wonderful stay’.

The recently opened spa, carefully designed to be in architectural sympathy with the rest of the property, offers a fantastic range of treatments, including a ‘made to measure massage’, in which your aches and pains are first carefully assessed, and then taken away by a more than experienced masseuse. Tea and a rest follow in the so-called relaxation area, or alternatively you can explore the delights of the various swimming pools and saunas, including a partially outdoor hydrotherapy pool, which provides some much-needed jets of water to jolt you from a pleasant torpor.

And then, as if these delights weren’t enough, there’s the possibility of dining in the Michelin-starred Park restaurant. In true old-school style, jackets and ties are required for gentlemen, who assess the menu over a cocktail in the superbly decorated formal lounge . To be fair, you’re almost spoilt for choice by Hywel Jones’ cooking. Starters could include thinly sliced Norfolk eel and grilled Cornish mullet with potato and horseradish risotto, or compression of pork with langoustines, followed by braised turbot with hand rolled macaroni or loin of Wiltshire lamb with white asparagus and morel mushrooms. There are even vegetarian and non-vegetarian gourmet menus that allow a Cook’s tour of the delights on offer. Whatever you order, the more than knowledgeable sommelier can match your choices with a range of divine wines, available either by the bottle or the glass, at a range of prices.

There is much more to commend here – I’ve not even mentioned the excellent breakfasts, or the super library, tailor-made for a relaxing cup of tea or something stronger – but it’s really best that you see it for yourself. You won’t be disappointed.

Room only rate is from £295 per room per night (include VAT and is subject to change) This includes full use of the hotel spa facilities, bicycles, tennis courts, croquet, walking trails, trim trail and five a side football pitch.  A minimum two night stay is required for weekends.

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne, Chippenham, Wilts. www.lucknampark.co.uk

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