Of all of Morocco’s major cities, the least predictable is Marrakech. It’s a combination of the hectic and the tranquil, the brash and the delicate, and the aggressive and the retiring. This split personality even extends to the geography of the city, which is a mixture of the old and new almost exactly – the medieval Medina, complete with souks and winding streets could not be a greater contrast with the so-called ‘French quarter’, which offers modern buildings and busy roads. The effect of arriving in Marrakech is simultaneously exhilarating, bracing and disorientating. The pace of life is as hectic as in any Western city, but in an entirely different register. Far from being ignored, visitors are treated as objects of enormous curiosity, whether to be welcomed, sold to, begged from or welcomed into the family.
The other thing about Marrakech that has become clear over the past few years is the rise and rise of the luxury travel market. With several airlines now flying here, it’s an easy spot for a weekend break. Additionally, there are now numerous hotels that cater to the sybarite’s every need, offering everything from a completely Westernised experience of luxury to something altogether more authentic, if no less comfortable. One of the leading lights in the latter sphere is the uber-stylish Royal Mansour Hotel, situated a short distance from the main square, Djeema el-Fna, as well as the other highlights.
The vibe in the hotel is a synthesis between classic Moroccan chic, complete with stunningly painted and designed ceilings, traditional architecture and fountains, and something more contemporary. This is perhaps best expressed in the spa, which has one of the city’s most acclaimed hammams within it. Likewise, the restaurants here are considered to be some of the finest in Morocco, offering entirely different experiences whichever of the three – Moroccan, Mediterranean and French – you decide to head to.
If you decide to opt for La Grand Table Francaise, you’re in for a treat. Described by some as the finest French restaurant in Africa, it’s under the careful tutelage of three Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alleno, famous for his cuisine at Le Meurice in Paris. Unlike some places in Marrakech, which seek to offer French dishes with a Middle Eastern twist, the cooking here is both straightforwardly Gallic, and utterly excellent. The menu is short, but everything on it is cooked to perfection, whether it’s a starter of rich, sumptuous duck foie gras, main courses of tender veal or succulent sea bass, or decadent desserts using the freshest fruit available. The wine list is intelligently divided between surprisingly good (and very underrated) Moroccan wines, and French offerings for those who prefer to cleave a little closer to convention. A glass of 2000 Billecart Salmon to begin with was a particular joy.
Whatever your own path of travel, there can be little doubt that Marrakech offers just about every option under the (blazingly hot) sun. The Royal Mansour, in all its opulence and luxury, is about as sophisticated a means of assessing all the options as can be found in the city at the moment, and seems likely to remain one of the key destinations in the country for the foreseeable future.
Royal Mansour Hotel, Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti, Marrakech. www.royalmansour.com
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