Situated a short drive or train journey from London, The Vineyard At Stockcross challenges every traditional idea of what a ‘country house hotel’ is, or should be. Owned and run by Sir Peter Michael, everything about The Vineyard seems tailor-made to make you feel as welcome as possible. You first realise this upon arrival; far from the mansions or sprawling estates that many luxury establishments inhabit, the immediate impression is one of sophistication and modern class, helped by the stylishly designed lake in front of the building which, by night, is illuminated by dramatic jets of fire.
It isn’t just the exterior that’s hot stuff. The hotel prides itself on the highest standards of accommodation, with the 49 rooms and suites all taking great store in the bells and whistles that they offer, ranging from flat screen TVs to lavishly appointed bathrooms. After you’ve spent some time wondering at the various accoutrements on offer, then a trip to the spa is a must – if one of the innovative spa treatments (including hot stone rituals and ESPA facials) doesn’t appeal for whatever reason, then at least a session in the sauna and jacuzzi is a must.
Of course, one of the main reasons why anyone visits The Vineyard is for the gastronomy. Sir Peter has a deserved reputation for the excellence of his Californian wine, and, as you’d expect, the comprehensive wine list here boasts a staggering variety of bottles from all over the world, avoiding the European bias so often found in high-end restaurants. Although it must be said that if your inclination is towards old world wine, there is plenty of fantastic stuff here, at prices ranging from the accessible to the (justifiably) astronomical.
The restaurant first acquired a serious culinary reputation under John Campbell, as well as two Michelin stars. Campbell has now left to take over the fine dining at Coworth Park, but the new head chef, Daniel Galmiche (late of Waldo’s at Cliveden and L’Ortolan in Reading) has similarly grand ambitions, offering a wide selection of menus that range from good-value lunch menus to the gourmand experience of the evening tasting menu. This decadent treat might encompass a range of delights including pan-fried scallops, John Dory and utterly delicious Balmoral estate venison, all of which can be paired with carefully selected wines by the glass from the aforementioned Bible of delights.
The Vineyard has an extremely high reputation, and the arrival of M. Galmiche seems designed to ensure that this remains as much of a culinary powerhouse as it’s ever been. We can only look forward to seeing what strengths it goes to next.
The Vineyard At Stockcross, Newbury, Berkshire, RG20. www.the-vineyard.co.uk
