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Posts Tagged ‘Savile Row’

Tommy Nutter: Rebel on the Row

Wednesday, May 25th, 2011

Tommy Nutter produced bespoke tailoring with a particular brand of eccentricity that can only be described as ‘English’. A generous smattering of the witty but perfectly formed creations he produced during his twenty year career, can be seen at the Fashion and Textiles Museum all summer long.

The museum has been transformed into Savile Row circa 1969 with iron railings and sketched building facades framing Nutter’s distinctively cut and flamboyant suits. His tongue-in-cheek approach offset with masterful cutting dragged Savile Row, kicking and screaming (perhaps), into the modern age.

Accompanied by a host of celebrity clients, Nutter blew the cobwebs out of the corners of a cloistered world and thrust it into the limelight. The exhibition features suits worn by Mick Jagger, Elton John, The Beatles, Charlie Watts and Robin Gibb, which make the descriptive labels read like a rock-and-roll Hall of Fame.

The exhibition is co-curated by Timothy Everest who trained with Nutter in the late 1980s and provides us with an invaluable insider view on Tommy’s world. Everest’s personal memories of working with Nutter have helped recreate the ambience of the Nutter atelier, with both the studio and shop floor having been authentically replicated, giving the visitor an idea of what went on behind the shiny black doors and big brass door knockers of Savile Row.

The flair and individuality of the clothes on display is a testament to bespoke tailoring which can realise personal taste in a way no other mode of fashion can. So if you fancy yourself a dramatic black and white all-in-one pantsuit then get yourself an appointment at Savile Row.

The museum are also running a range of events, so if you, like a certain young gentleman I know, think that you can make a dazzling pair of suit trousers by drawing around your legs and sewing it together, then you might just learn a trick or two by booking into the tailoring workshops on offer during June and July. For more information click here.

The Tommy Nutter- Rebel On the Row exhibition is at the Fashion and Textiles Museum, near London Bridge. Opening times Tues-Sat 11am- 6pm.

Sartorial Bliss

Friday, April 9th, 2010

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Jean Cocteau once said that art produced ugly things that became more beautiful with time and that fashion became more ugly.

Gresham Blake launched his bespoke menswear and clothing company in 2000. Re-imagining Cocteau’s dictum for the 21st century, Blake aimed to devise a sartorial solution for people who could take centre stage in the cocktail party, important business pitch or boardroom.

Specialising in Savile Row inspired tailoring with a rock star twist, Gresham Blake epitomises classic British tailoring with a playful, subversive edge. Blake officially opened his tailoring outfit and store in 2000, rapidly earning himself a cult following from the cognoscenti by re-positioning stereotypes of ‘Britishness’ .

Blake’s bespoke, made to measure and ready to wear suits and product range hold universal appeal and somehow he unifies the white-collar plutocrat with the stylish anarchist. Combining floral designs or witty linings with quality tailoring, the suit itself may be sober and cut to perfection but carries a dandyish element. With bright patterns or other quirky embellishments, such as a gold or silver button on the sleeves, Blake delivers conformity and eccentricity.

Oscar Wilde once remarked that fashion was a form of ugliness so intolerable that it needed to be altered every six months. Blake’s tailoring disproves this theory. Despite the typical brand embellishments found in Blake’s ready to wear collection, he will dispense with some of the edgier details if the client wants a more understated option. “Tailoring is a personal business,” he says. “You have to psychologically weigh up the customer and listen to them, rather than tell them what they want. We don’t instill a house style.”

To paraphrase Giorgio Armani, the difference between style and fashion is quality. Blake’s loyal following includes Jimmy Page, Norman Cook,Nick Cave, Tracey Emin, Steve Coogan and Christian Slater. Edgier and more in tune with the spirit of the times that some of the more traditional English tailors, Gresham Blake bends the conventions while paying the greatest respect to the craft.

Email customerservices@greshamblake.com for more information, or call + 44 (0)1273 609 587. www.greshamblake.com

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