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Posts Tagged ‘spa’

This World that We Seek at Hartwell House

Tuesday, December 13th, 2011

In the restaurant, we sat, just staring. Sometimes at each other, sometimes out over the plains of the forest and then out further across the twilight hours, carried as they are on the wings of a thousand swans, sometimes white, often black with all the poetry of nightfall. Their wings glide, high above Hartwell House and swoop along the rushes and further along towards Blenheim Palace and Woburn Abbey along the way.

It is here, just an hour from London, that deer dance across ravines now frosted over by the drip of mid-winter, tripping as they do across the Vale of Aylesbury. It is here that a lake shudders in lonely thought, impressed as it is by the silhouette of this 17-th century stately mansion – the very metaphor of ‘pensive reflection’ – in-awed by its strange inhabitants, by their laughter, their pensive smiles, amused too by their fond appreciation for its Jacobean furniture, its eerie figurines – each with their own unique countenance, becoming graver, darker, lighter, then stronger in bearing and power, then sensitive to your own sense of amazement as they climb up the sweeping staircase to 33 suites covered in fine fabric and a selection of shortbreads and ‘luxury fruit’.

I couldn’t figure out if my sighs in the almost forgotten candlelight were for the one, or for the other. My eyes rested on the one, the one I repeatedly called ‘buttercup’ (keeping a straight face all the while, and this just to try and make her laugh, for her smile had started so thinly, and was now growing steadily). My fork was heavy with a poached fillet of brill with lemon grass, and her lips were pressed against Ruinart Brut Rose, and they turned to find themselves reflected in the purple glass that divided the moon beam and shattered it on ten pale, motionless fingers (and one sapphire ring). I noticed that mine own eyes were both dilated, and shone with a similar intensity to that moon which found a place in her own.

Dear reader (for you are dear to me if you are reading this), you will ask me if such is the poise of romance that the world inside must find its immediate reflection in the world outside, that the sigh must escape from the heart into the ether and not in the other direction. And I will agree, and passionately at that. For what is this forest and these grand public rooms, the high ceilings and yellow cupolas and the fine paintings and the exquisite plasterworks (even if carved from a golden blade), and the beauty of this bookish garden, that infamous porch and its dark blue grass where a fountain and a poet that looks like you sit for one moment in time….what is it, and how can it be appreciated unless its sigh goes from the inside out, from one pair of eyes to another, from one lip to another, now acquiescing and saying ‘Yes. But look, there’s another one…another deer…another rabbit…another moon!’

My ponderings, so far, and so often, describe hats, and coats, the perfection of a stuffed saddle of rabbit (yes, and here it is brought over by one so elegant and softly spoken as to seem almost part of the country tweed that covers my shoulder), or the soft and supple notes of another glass of rosé that she had with the specialité de la maison – chicken breast with perfectly creamed potatoes – and the home made fudge or the pyramid of blackcurrant parfait with puddle of summer berry compote – so deliciously prepared, so thankfully devoured.

But I think of you as you read this, and I realise that such detail, though necessary, though in ‘the manner of things, and important for that reason’, are only details, and not the reason why you would choose to come here at all.

For I, in this twilight hour that I hold the pen, and remembering the air of wealth in that library with the great fire where we played chess for hours until finally she won (my boast has its purpose here too), and those fluffy white bathrobes, and that waistcoated man with the wide ancient smile that carried my bags out and into the waiting cab, and her smile as he hugged her goodbye, am left with a feeling of… Yes!

For it is the beauty of such a place in old Albion, with its lakes and swans and winding shadows so stoically wrought, that it holds the remnants of a thought that itself reminds us that such beauty cannot be around us if it does not exist with even greater potency within the very fibre of our beings.

www.hartwellhouse.com

Mischief and Hi-jinks at Cowley Manor

Tuesday, November 15th, 2011

Some hotels should come with a behaviour warning. Cowley Manor nestled in the glorious Cotswold countryside (90mins from London) featuring lakes, ponds, giant oak trees and a grand Victorian cascading waterfall, is the Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe meets Pride and Prejudice – or if you’re me, a boarding school fantasy come true.

The 55 acres of Grade II-listed parkland are overrun with wild flowers and thorny hideouts, ripe for secret rendezvous, and for anyone who checked in during the weekend of my visit, I can only apologise for my antics. Yes, the curvy naked lady on a first floor stone terrace was me… This is the kind of decorum Cowley Manor inspires.
Perhaps it’s the naughty Duke who haunts the corridors, or maybe it’s the tongue-in-cheek works-of-art hanging from dark panelled staircases. Whatever it is, there’s plenty at Cowley to encourage detention.

Thirty rooms (15 in the main house and 15 in the stable block), all feature generous bathrooms with rain showers and tubs big enough for two, bedecked with locally-produced Green & Spring organic products, plus free WIFI, flat screen TVs and Bose docking stations.

Our suite was large and airy with views over the lawn and lakes, so you can watch the ducks and geese play chase between the ancient trees. Completely void of any stately house gloom, and contemporary to the max, rooms boast Japanese-style low-slung four posters with vintage leather headboards, multi-coloured retro carpets (think DVF /Missoni), raspberry pink Arne Jacobsen Egg chairs and Swedish-style storage units to keep things tidy. The best room is number 17.

Throughout the hotel, the emphasis is on modern British design with bespoke furniture and original artworks, although it has to be said, some of the public areas feel a little shabby around the edges and could benefit from an update.

Book a table in the dining room for supper. It’s an impressive space with dramatic red ceilings, 12-foot French windows, parquet floors and comfy sage-green leather chairs. Our amuse-bouches were delivered in mini glass teacups, and there was nothing faddy about the pea and mint mêlée dedans.

Breakfast was served the best way: hot and fast. Fresh mango and sweet melon slices, black pudding (not too greasy) and firm local sausages. My only criticism was the tea which was served in a complex maraca-style Tovolo tea infuser. Too much fuss for my shaky morning hand.

The C.Side Spa is where Cowley truly excels. It’s more than just a chic space, it’s an architectural achievement. Boasting a slate-lined indoor pool and a glistening saltwater outdoor pool, open all year round, there are four treatment rooms, a gym, mani/pedi area, steam room and sauna. Go for a massage and you’ll be offered a choice of playlists – no danger of dolphin sonars or jingly-jangly yoga music here.

Whether you prefer to spend time in the spa, the shop (which has Vogue’s stamp of approval), the snooker room or your suite, I can think of no better place to unleash one’s inner schoolgirl. Just don’t tell your parents.

www.cowleymanor.com

No Trouble At The Mill

Tuesday, October 18th, 2011

Minster Lovell, in the heart of the Cotswolds, is the sort of place that people like to imagine represents England at its most idyllic. It’s a small village, mainly consisting of one picturesque street, which leads up to a ruined abbey. There are glorious walks roundabout through bucolic countryside, and there are quiet spots to sit in and contemplate the passing of the seasons. If you had to pick anywhere to represent a timeless English country location, here would be about as good a place to pick as any.

Another reason to visit is to stay at the main hotel in the village, The Old Swan and Minster Mill. It’s set around two distinct buildings, each with its own identity. The Old Swan, as the name suggests, is a cosily bijou inn, with the rooms above the downstairs pub striking a fine balance between luxury hotel comforts and more sedate charms. A typical room might have a ludicrously comfortable four poster bed, swish bathroom and little treats such as a miniature decanter of sloe gin. Minster Mill, by way of contrast, offers more modern rooms, but what some of them lose in old-fashioned cosiness they make up for with spectacular views over the grounds, which make for an excellent walk.

You’re almost certain to visit the Old Swan itself for dinner or lunch no matter where you’re staying, and it’s a delight to report that the food here is solidly authentic gastropub excellence. Starters of potted shrimp with aioli and Lyme bay scallops offer unflashy but delicious appetite-warmers, and main courses are of a conservative bent, such as fantastic sausages and mash and rack of Berkshire lamb. It’s also more than worth popping down for breakfast, which offers a solidly enjoyable range of all the victuals you’d expect from a traditional country inn. Those who are keen on the more relaxing things in life would be well advised to head to the Windrush Spa for a treatment; it’s also worth noting that 2012 is going to see several developments, including an entirely new spa complex and expanded dining room, both of which will enhance the experience even more.

The Old Swan and Mill, School Hill, Minster Lovell, OX29 0RN. www.oldswanandminstermill.com

Quintessentially travelled with First Great Western. For best fares and further details please see www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

French sense & scents

Thursday, July 21st, 2011

I don’t like to dwell on the weather, but winding down the driveway to Le Mas Candille, the car dips out of the mizzle for a moment – that really annoying sort of rain that doesn’t look much, but gives you an absolute drenching. I’m greeted by a glowing-with-olive-tan Francoise, looking a little sheepish under her umbrella having soaked in the sun here for all of last week.

Nevertheless, the four and a half acres of manicured gardens, all lavender, honeysuckle and callistemon, shine through, glugging the weather faster than it can fall. Le Mas Candille (Mas for the farmhouse at its centre, Candille for its landmark cypress tree) is just a few kilometres from Cannes, and slips into the medieval hillside of Mougins like Cinderella’s foot in her slipper – and sits pretty behind Nice and Monaco, her bigger bolshy sisters.

Le Mas is less diamonds and glamour, more understated luxury with a sparkle catching on the breeze from the coast. This is where olive trees have stood for 200 years, and a peach plastered 18th century farmhouse with heavy cream shutters bakes in the southern French sunshine – when the weather behaves, so Francoise Mirebeau, the delightful Responsable Commerciale, assures me – breathing out its warmth like a radiator through long evenings, coaxed by a chorus of crickets.

But Le Mas is not without its fair celeb share – Kirsten Dunst rested her head here, between scooping the best actress award and schmoozing on the red carpet at this year’s Cannes Film Festival, and Brad Pitt’s been known to drop in for dinner.

Little wonder, since under Serges Gouloumès – un petit ‘chef celebre’ himself – restaurant Le Candille has held a Michelin star since 2005. The food is exquisite; all rounds of asparagus mousse, morel mushrooms, giant langoustine and suckling veal, expertly crafted and perfectly complimentary, with that juicy buttery-ness that is the preserve of the French.

And then there’s the cheese cart; the star of the proverbial show, right as the sun goes down over the pre-Alps, and Serge bumbling around happily, charming guests with a cunning grin and an accent thick enough to slather on a fresh baguette.

Sleeping soundly in vast beds, sinking into rooms that have a hint of the classic Relais & Chateaux, and each with an individual farmhouse charm, the sun peeks through. Inspired by the heady scents of the garden, we venture to Grasse, the perfume capital of the world, to play at making our own fragrances in the original Fragonard factory – with debatable success, it must be said, but an excellent education in scent for a Wednesday morning

But finding your nose is tough work and though Grasse can’t help but smell divine, the soporific effect of its winding streets means that the cocoon of Le Mas’ Shisheido Spa, and a network of Jacuzzis and infinity pools and hammocks and day beds and my deep bath are too hard to resist.

I could go on, but by now you should be sipping Champagne on the terrace, refreshed and barefooted and without a care in the world – Picasso may have lived in Mougins, but with Cypress trees and terracotta roof tiles playing at complementary colours and the big clouds rolling off the Ligurian Sea, the panoramas unfolding are straight from Cézanne’s brush.

So there you have it; a haven, I suppose, where the light is special, the smells almost tangible and the feeling fine – and the kind of place that just when you’re satiated, the petits fours appear and it all starts over again.

lemascandille.com

New Heights at The Feversham

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

Yorkshire – not the most obvious choice for a luxury weekend away, it is perhaps more akin to waders, gun dogs and nature enthusiasts than blackberry (the non edible kind) toting city dwellers trying to keep their Hunter wellingtons out of the mud.

However T’Yorkshire I was going one sunny June afternoon, boarding my Grand Central train at the rather stylish new look Kings Cross Station.
I’d also brought the boy along with me to embark on our cross country trek, he’s an adventurous type you see, and a good man to have around in case there’s a tricky field or stream to negotiate on the way to the spa.

But why Yorkshire, I hear you ask? Well I’d heard a whisper, that a place so heavenly, so quintessentially luxurious, had popped up in a little village called Helmsley and was simply too good to miss.

When Emily Brontë wrote of ‘bright white clouds flitting rapidly above – the moors seen at a distance, broken into cool dusky dells; but close by great swells of long grass undulating in waves to the breeze’ as the ‘perfect idea of heaven’s happiness’ she was telling the truth, and as we raced across the countryside, I was starting to see why we had made our journey in the first place.

The Feversham Arms was originally an 18th Century coaching inn that sits opposite a picturesque church, and as we pulled into the driveway I was struck by how modern yet still original the glass and Yorkshire stone building looked nestled in the heart of the village.

My inner sugar junkie rejoiced when we were told afternoon tea was waiting for us outside by the pool – yes that’s right – the pool, which at the Feversham lies in the centre courtyard, surrounded by the cottage style poolside suites, where other guests swaddled in white robes were relaxing in the afternoon sun.

As something of an afternoon tea connoisseur, the Feversham’s tea did not disappoint – Yorkshire ham with spicy apple chutney had been rolled into fingers of freshly baked bread, followed by the most wonderfully well risen scones topped with the homemade strawberry and passion fruit jam, and to my immense delight, lemon curd!

But the highlights were the chocolate and raspberry pots served in miniature terracotta flower pots and topped with marzipan mushrooms, followed closely by the strawberry jelly striped with elderflower pannacotta – childhood memories on a plate.

Now to the bedroom – our spa suite was aptly decorated in soft blue William Morris florals, with a wonderful lounge area complete with buttery leather couch and this month’s latest glossy titles. The bathroom was my own personal Elysium with the double-ended 6ft bath, l’Occitaine products, and vanilla scented candles acting as the perfect balm to my city sore limbs.

Sitting on our balcony, we opened one of the two bottles of champagne that had been waiting for us in the room bearing the cheeky missives ‘one for now’ and ‘one for later’, as the sun set over Helmsley Castle in the distance.

Dinner at ‘The Fev’ (as we had learned it was affectionately called amongst the staff and seasoned guests) is a relaxed affair in the hotel’s atrium style dining room surrounded by vintage jeroboams and charming paintings from local artists. The food was spectacular,  from the pan-fried scallops with chicken wings cooked in maple syrup, Thai mushroom puree and crispy chicken skin to start, to the tender fillet of beef that melted like honeycomb in my mouth for the main.

But the meal was dominated by the gargantuan cheese cart that worked its way tantalizingly around the room before finally coming to rest at our table. Being more of a cheese lover than an expert, we asked the Fev’s resident turophile to make some recommendations for us to sample, I went for a local smoked cheese and some superbly aged cheddar, whilst my date feeling a little more adventurous with his palate opted for the Stinking Bishop and the Epoisses de Bourgogne – a cheese so pungent it is banned from French public transport – lucky me!

And so satiated, relaxed and perhaps a little merry we went to bed, but not before the do not disturb mascot – in our case a sheep, had been firmly placed outside the door.

To be continued…

A Mother’s Love at Wyck Hill

Tuesday, March 29th, 2011

My mum has received many Mother’s Day gifts from me over the past 20 something years – from the pasta shell covered cards of my Montessori days, followed closely by the bouquet of daffodils stolen from our neighbour’s garden, to some very dubious smelling rose petal perfume that she dotingly wore with pride.

But luckily for my mum the years of hand-made trinkets are over as I’m now of an age where my imagination (and my budget) allows me to think a little more extravagantly when it comes to showing her how much I care.

Which is why she found herself one sunny Friday afternoon on a First Great Western train, enjoying a G&T, as the beautiful English countryside rushed past. Her destination? Wyck Hill House Hotel and Spa in the heart of the stunning Cotswolds.

With snowdrops poking cautiously through the ground, rabbits gamboling on the green banks, and the late afternoon spring sun glancing off the windows, Wyck Hill is a welcome sight for city sore eyes!  The main house itself is a lush mix of sweeping staircases and oak panelled walls, combined with avant garde flower displays and ultra modern metallic wallpaper.

Our home for the night was not in the main house, but just a short stroll along a charming garden path leading to the old orangery. Our room was the epitome of country chic, but without a doubt the most impressive feature was the stunning double doors that flooded the room with light. Opening directly onto our own private terrace, the wicker sun loungers proved the perfect spot from which to watch the sun go down as we sipped on a chilled glass of Chablis.

Dressed for dinner, we headed for drinks in the bespoke open air humidor. Despite the impressive whisky and wine selection, a Kir Royale was our tipple of choice – like mother like daughter.

Dinner was served in the AA 2 Rosette award winning restaurant, where I persuaded my mum to dismiss her diet for the evening and tuck into a lavish four course dinner.  A refreshing amuse bouche of leek soup with apple crisp was the first thing to grace out lips – compliments of the chef.  To start I opted for the air dried ham with Manchego cheese and honey roasted black figs, whilst my mum selected the crab, ginger and coriander cakes dressed with tomato and caviar.

For mains, the fillet of Hereford Cross beef could not have been more succulent and delicious, whilst my mum’s choice of sea bass in a shellfish cream sauce accompanied by saffron potatoes was eliciting sighs of delight even from me, a self confessed non fish fan. Pudding was to be shared owing to our joint love of all things chocolate, and the milk chocolate ganache with passion fruit mousse and a side of chocolate macaroon did not fail to disappoint.

The next day we headed to the Elemis Spa in the depths of the house for some much needed pampering.  Dressed in deliciously fluffy white robes, we were ushered into the ‘Relaxation Room’ onto day beds swathed in burnt gold chiffon where icy mineral water and the latest glossy magazines awaited us. I had opted for the Herbal Lavender Repair Facial, with my mum choosing the Visible Brilliance Facial.

With the scent of lavender in the air lulling me into a calming daze, the cool hands of my therapist worked and massaged their way over my skin; ending in the most heavenly hand and arm massage I believe I will ever have the privilege of experiencing.  My mum emerged from her own treatment in a similar state, feeling renewed, refreshed, and of course looking ten years younger.

The Mother’s Day experience at Wyck Hill is undeniably an incredible way to spoil your mum, but the best part is simply spending some rare time together in one of the most beautiful and peaceful locations in England. In fact why wait until Mother’s Day for your visit, a weekend at Wyck should be mandatory at least once a month – happily my mum agrees with me.

Wyck Hill House Hotel, Stow-on-the-Wold, The Costwolds, Gloucestershire, GL54 1HY

www.wyckhillhousehotel.com

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