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Amanjena Days – Moroccan Nights

Friday, February 4th, 2011

I have often dreamt of Morocco as a land straight out of a Scheherazade tale, full of azure pools, flickering amber hues, saffron spiced air and swirling veils. My first impressions of the Amanjena Resort in Marrakech did nothing to shatter my reverie – A sun baked pink palace that appeared as a hazy mirage before my eyes, framed by the vast Atlas Mountains that shimmered in the distance.

The sweet sound of trickling water from the scattered pools and fountains instantly starts to soothe the soul and the scent of rose water in the air is the perfect antidote for the weary traveler.

There are 39 suites in total and I was ushered to one of the Amanjena’s two-storey, two-bedroom Maisons that allowed me to suspend reality and imagine I was living in a traditional Moroccan town house, complete with my own arc cut fireplace, Maillechort candle lanterns, and chaise lounge to recline on while I listen to the soft symphony echoing from the zellij wall fountain.

A short journey through my new abode revealed further untold delights in the form of the domed bathroom in the master suite complete with a stunningly carved Quarzazate green marble bath which I immediately wanted to relax into for several luxuriant hours.

Tearing myself away from the visual feast of the inside of my suite, I ventured towards the brilliant sunlight streaming through my courtyard doors and entered my own private jannah (paradise). I dipped a toe into my private swimming pool, leant down to sample the intoxicating scent from the rose bushes, and sat down for a while under my own shade tree to contemplate the wonders of my good fortune.

If there was one thing that could have made me relax further than I already had, it was a visit to the spa at Amanjena. Taking the form of a traditional Moroccan ‘hammam’ the spa is the ideal place to revitalize and rejuvenate your mind and body, thanks to the centuries old traditions and therapies used by the therapists, with many of the staff who work in the spas having learned ancient local skills passed down from generation to generation.

Laying in the warm heat of the hammam I felt all the impurities being lifted from within my skin, followed by a scalp massage that had me entering a state of absolute bliss.

A light supper of traditional mezze and delicious lamb tagine was served in an intimate Caidal Tent, as the sun sank below the mountains. Sat in my courtyard I sipped the mint tea lovingly prepared for me by my personal butler and pondered the meaning of Amanjena. When translated, Amanjena means ‘peaceful paradise’ and with the desert stars shining above me, I could not think of a more perfect explanation than that.

http://www.amanresorts.com/

Eat, Spa, Beach

Friday, November 5th, 2010

The indisputable highlight of my autumn has been escaping Hong Kong for less polluted and sunnier climes, where I found the perfect restorative retreat at Karma Kandara in Bali.

Working with the philosophy that balance is the ultimate state of being, Karma brings together a first-rate spa, spacious private pool villas, a seriously hip beach club and delicious dining options for an extremely relaxing and escapist one-stop retreat. It’s the kind of place you could bring your girlfriends for a ‘Moet & Manicure’ spa weekend, gather your friends and family and get hitched on the beach, or visit with your nearest-and-dearest for some quality romance time.

The hotel’s holistic theme is reflected in the spa menu, which not only offers divine massages (I loved the Karma rubdown) but also body scrubs, wraps and steams. The detox body scrub consisted of a brisk rubdown using home-grown and handmade organic products infused with salt that left my skin feeling, forgive the cliché, baby soft. The spa also specialises in more unusual alternative therapies – for example, Craniosacral, Reiki or Zen facials.

The weekend I was there, celebrity facialist Fumi Yamamoto was staying at the resort and leading a three-day Zen Facial Retreat. Fumi’s training in Traditional Chinese Medicine, Shiatsu and Reflexology meant the facial included a foot massage and stomach diagnostic session. This kind of attitude – that a holistic approach is better for us all – is something that Karma embraces thoroughly and lends the resort a completely unpretentious, friendly and chilled-out vibe where you’re welcome to wine and dine as well as spa and relax.

Pampering aside, Nammos, Karma’s private beach club, attracts an unsurprisingly good-looking crowd of 30-something Europeans sipping on chilled cocktails, nibbling tapas and listening to the DJ’s sundown set. The beach is accessible by an inclinator down a 150m cliff face and offers spectacular views of the Indian Ocean beyond – in fact, the whole resort is built facing the ocean on Bali’s southernmost peninsula with the spa, restaurant and Grand Cliff Residences in prime position to take advantage of the amazing views. The beach looks rocky but don’t be fooled: the rocks are actually large slabs of granite that have been polished smooth over time and act as ad-hoc aqua sunbeds.

As for the villas themselves – well, what more is there to say than the luxury of having your own pool, daybeds, sun loungers and outdoor dining area is the perfect compliment to what’s already the epitome of the charming villa. The décor is, not surprisingly, unpretentious and fuses Balinese design with contemporary finishes – rainforest showers, outdoor daybeds and the warm colours you’d expect on this tropical island. Look out for the monkeys swinging through the trees, limbering across the pool area as if they own the place.

di Mare, which is their main restaurant, serves breakfast lunch and dinner and boasts some of the best sea views in the hotel. Light bites, fresh salads and seafood are served up alongside home baked bread and a smashing wine list. Also in stiff competition for ‘best view’ is the spa – check out the outdoor Jacuzzi and spa rooms where you can hear the crashing of the waves whilst enjoying a traditional Balinese rubdown.

Karma Kandara, Jalan Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya Kusuma Ungasan, Bali, 80362 Indonesia

T: +62 361 848 2200

Healing Rains at Amanbagh

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

With the Monsoon come the gentle rains that warm and soothe like good wine. In Amanbagh, in a meditative valley of Rajasthan, therapy is all around you; in the large open spaces and quiet, orderly service that doesn’t impose; the fresh smells and the soft pinks shades of the buildings and the elegant interiors and extensive gardens which you have to experience with the senses, not the imagination.

This five day retreat is a time to heal. There is none of that ‘end of day, and I’ve done nothing’ loneliness you get in the city. The Monsoon season is cool, and the ‘Wellness Experience’ is just a name to let people know what they might expect; it doesn’t just mean yoga and meditation and Reiki. They’re all here of course, and can be tailored to fit you like a glove, but it’s about thinking big about how it all comes together. Even after the body is detoxified and your mental landscape is as peaceful as the shower outside the window, there is a lot more real life to look at.

If you are here to propose, or await someone’s proposal, or marry, or anything that you’ve been waiting a long time to do, then you find out that you really don’t have to do very much. This is understated indulgence with many smiles and unassuming easiness thrown in. A priest can ‘renew vows’ Indian style, if you like, before that reignited spark leads you to the private Pool Pavilion where the food is prepared to make you love each other even more. The cuisine is organic, as expected; extensive menus and elegant dishes are prepared, but they are unfussy and delicately flavoured, with vegetables and herbs brought in from the garden. In the champagne you can see stars and on the hills to the west is the vast rugged terrain of the Aravalli Hills.

Meditation and Yoga will assist you in channeling all the right energies, and focusing them, even as you walk out in the warm rain through the exotic gardens with tall palms and antique eucalyptus trees and manicured lawns. You then stop under a pavilion in the Terrace Haveli, and sip more cold white wine, and let that warm feeling dissipate through your skin – purified, clear, glowing. Take out a book like Somerset Maugham did in a place like this – one that you bought for the occasion – and then put it down and close your eyes. You don’t really need to read. It’s just the idea of it. They painted henna art on your feet, and yesterday you went and saw many beautiful temples and palaces. They too are just an idea now that you take with you.

You need to get back to the spa for that facial, and you wonder what the fire meditation will be like. On the tree in the garden near the lake is a blossom. It shivers in the wind. It looks almost perfect, and so you get up…

For more information, please go to www.amanresorts.com/amanbagh/home.aspx

A Ride to Renewal

Monday, July 19th, 2010

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I am resting now in the shadow of the Himalayas. Above me the white snows seem to evaporate into mist, falling on the sacred shrines, the waterfalls and the gardens of Sangtopeiri – ‘Heaven on Earth’ in Bhutanese. I only arrived a few days ago at Uma Paro, Bhutan, but already I feel the ancient mysticism of this otherworldly place taking hold of me.

In an effort to atone for my dietary sins, I’ve booked into Uma Paro for their 10 day cycling adventure and resort respite. I’ve opted for one of their freestanding villas; a spacious, airy and unpretentious – but undeniably chic – bedroom and sitting area with traditional Bukhari wood burning stove. All villas, much to my delight, offer personal butler service.

Our first day of cycling led us to an ancient Buddhist temple. We rode at a forgiving pace along a bridge, allegedly built by a saint. It hangs across the valley by threads of metal and as it swayed, I was able to look down into the abundant and untouched pine forests below.

After an inspiring day admiring my surroundings, as well as my body’s ability to transport itself through this magnificent landscape, my body felt primed for a spa treatment and recharging meal. At Como Shambhala Retreat, treatments include massage and authentic Ayurvedic therapies, restoring the balance of the body’s three distinctive but complimentary doshas.

To my delight, the restaurant was serving a divine handmade linguine with poached egg, forest mushrooms and in season asparagus. After a tempting perusal of the full menu offerings – based on a mixture of locally sourced ingredients with both contemporary and traditional interpretations of local, Indian and Western culinary traditions – I couldn’t help but to plan the next morning’s culinary affair: local buckwheat pancakes with Bumthang honey, lime and maple syrup.

Tomorrow the trail will get steeper and I will ride through the cool shade of the conifers, where the prayer flags flutter above the streams of the Paro Valley. The temple at the top is our spiritual and visual reward. We will stay the night at the ‘cave of a thousand prayers’, in a monastery where age-old chants and campfires still burn their ancient songs.

The capital of this Kingdom is as enchanting as the country that surrounds it. It sprawls up the wooded hillside of the Wang Chhu. The setting is one of those rare places where time seems to stand still, yet still be moving; an entirely appropriate paradox in Bhutan, where the national religion remains 100 percent Buddhist.

I’ve met some delightful locals here, most of whom were keen to engage with our group. The villagers wear their traditional patterned garb, like a proud and unifying national dress code – leading me to feel somewhat embarrassed about my designer jeans and high-street tee shirts. The young children pointed at my trainers and laughed – and I, feeling balanced, energised and alive, really truly alive, for the first time in too long – laughed my childhood laugh along with them.

Uma Paro, Bhutan

General enquiries and reservations (including travel assistance)
Tel + 975 8 271597
Fax + 975 8 271513
Email info.paro@uma.como.bz

Uma Paro
PO Box 222
Paro
Bhutan

Amangalla for Mind and Body

Friday, July 2nd, 2010

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The last week has been spent in the divine retreat of Amangalla in Sri Lanka. Daily yoga sessions, a healthy and delicious diet, and some of the most unearthly spa treatments I’ve ever experienced, has left me feeling – dare I say – like a well rested and energetic child again.

Set in the heart of a 17th century Dutch fort, I was immediately escorted into a world of tranquility and indulgence. On waking the first morning in my luxurious suite, I take note of my authentic surroundings… Turn-of-the-century ambiance has been recreated with a four poster, king size bed; Planter’s chair, writing desk, period dining table and Pettagama chest. I indulge in a bountiful yet nutritious breakfast followed by a casual stroll around the colonial fort; weaving my way through the narrow streets and on towards the ramparts and seawall; breathing in the laughter, history and crafts of an ancient maritime people.

The afternoon is spent discovering Sri Lanka’s first luxurious Ayurvedic experience. Ayurveda – meaning “science of life” – is an ancient philosophy focusing on exercise, yoga, meditation and massage. The charming Dr Fernando diagnosed my Doshas – the three basic physiological principles that interact to create health – and advised on how to best achieve the perfect balance in my life.

Yoga sessions were held in the beautiful Pavilion – and for those moments of quiet reflection – I chose to quietly meditate on the sweeping surrounding lawns before my treatments in The Baths.

Restoring both body and mind, the softly lit treatment chambers lead off into five stunning cloisters from a descending arched hallway. The Baths hydrotherapy chambers, steam rooms, sauna, cold dip pools and unique Jacuzzi pools, feature candle lit recesses, high ceilings and traditional archways – architectural details that serve to further enhance the overall experience.

Complimenting the more ancient traditions, Amangalla also offers a number of more modern beauty and lifestyle treatments in the salon. Drifting off during my head massage in an original Planter’s chairs overlooking two hundred year old gardens, I felt completely refreshed and ready to partake in a traditional colonial feast before venturing out for a spot of stargazing in the Garden Pavilion.

Amangalla
10 Church Street
Fort Galle, Sri Lanka

tel (94) 91 223 3388
fax (94) 91 223 3355

email amangalla@amanresorts.com

bat those lashes

Thursday, April 15th, 2010

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It was with mild trepidation that I made my way to Bliss Spa in Chelsea to undergo a lash treatment where I was promised fluttering lashes that no man could resist. These would be glued to each of my individual lashes, banishing the need for falsies, or even the compulsory lick of morning mascara. My primary fear was that I’d come out looking a cross between a llama and a Las Vegas show girl. Voicing my concerns to my beauty ‘therapist’, she assured me that these would look both natural and striking, offering me a range of lengths and colours.

Prior to making my way downstairs for my lashoptomy, I caught a glimpse of women in reclining chairs, with pedicurists fervently scrubbing away as clients relaxed in front of screens showing Sex and the City. This is taking luxury to new heights, I thought.

I’d been told that the procedure would take an hour and a half, hence my secondary cause for concern. As a compulsive fidgeter, the prospect of one and a half hours of daylight spent lying prostrate leaves me itchy-footed, to say the least.Yet as I lay back on my cushy towelling bed, gently heated for optimum relaxation, with the dulcet tones of Ray Lamontagne and Otis Redding serenading me (a welcome break from the new age whale calls so prominent in salons these days) my angst dissolved as I drifted into a light doze.

I was gently awoken to the reassuring words ‘all done.’

The moment of truth. Would I look like a street-walking alpaca? To my delight – the result was as promised – striking but natural. The men haven’t exactly been falling at my feet, but no sooner was I back in the office then several of my more astute colleagues noticed my screen goddess lashes.

If you do book a treatment, I would recommend taking the rest of the afternoon off. The procedures don’t run overtime, but it’s well worth indulging in the spas relaxation room, well stocked with cheese and biscuits for a little light sustenance.

Semi-permanent false lashes cost £150 and last for 2 weeks.

For more information, visit http://www.blisslondon.co.uk/

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